We used the excellent city of Gravina di Puglia to visit nearby Matera and enjoyed both immensely. Gravina also has ancient origins, as well as habitations and churches carved into rock, but avoids the massive tourist presence. This year may be a good year to do it before the next James Bond film is released. https://www.thelocal.it/20190703/james-bond-is-coming-to-puglia-this-summer
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