A Month In Sicily

I spent two weeks in Sicily a few years ago so I can appreciate your goals. On the east coast, I would suggest Syracuse/Ortigia as a base. There's a lot more to see within driving distance (Noto, Ragusa, Scicli, Modica). Please plan to park your car on the mainland and do not drive across the bridges into Ortigia. My AirBnB was in Ortigia and my host assured me I could drive to the apartment to drop off my luggage, but it turned into a nightmare. Either book something close to the large parking lot on the mainland or stay close enough to the mainland in Ortigia to comfortably move your luggage. Do be aware that everywhere on the east coast, parking is extremely expensive. In Syracuse I think it was 15 Euros/day. I don't remember Taormina exactly, but I'm guessing around 20 Euros.

I would suggest making Palermo your base for your last week. There are easy trains to Cefalu you can take when you want to get out of town. You should also drop your car off at the Palermo airport and use public transportation. You do not want to be driving in Palermo or trying to park there.

Speaking of driving, be prepared for some of the most aggressive driving you've ever experienced. It's not impossible but just keep your cool and assume that most local drivers are not actively trying to kill you. It may seem like that at times.

Lastly, with a month to spend in Sicily, I would seriously consider reducing your time on the east coast to two weeks and spend one week driving around southern/western Sicily. You'll miss a lot of great things if you only see the east coast and Palermo. Look at towns like Agrigento, Trapani, Castellammare del Golfo and Erice. There are great historic sites at Selinunte and Segesta.

Thank you for the great reply. All great suggestions. Just to explain, we're spending 3 weeks in one spot just to relax and get s good feel for one area. I've been vascullating back and forth with Palermo and Cefalu and I thank you for your suggestion.

I'd consider 3 -4 bases for a month. Sicily is big.
For the South-East, the island of Ortigia is a good spot if you want to stay in town. You don't need to park in the mainland, there is this parking structure in Ortigia, called Parcheggio Talete, and you can park there. That is where I parked (although I like to stay in this place out of town in the countryside.

Another place to consider is on the north east, near Taormina. I prefer Giardini Naxos, the beach town below Taormina, as it is less expensive and there is a beach, which I like. When you look for hotels/accommodations make sure they have access to parking, if you have a car.

For the North West, Palermo is a good option, but a car is kind of a hassle to have in Palermo. I'd consider staying in Palermo just the last few days, after you return the car. For the rest of your stay, if you like relaxation, I'd consider an agriturismo or B&B or hotel near Segesta, or, if you like beaches, maybe Scopello, or Castellammare or San Vito Lo Capo. From any of those locations you can roam around with your car on day trips.

If you prefer to base yourself in Palermo, but plan to keep the car for day trips, then I'd suggest to stay in the district of Mondello, at the beach. Places with parking are probably more available there. When you visit the city you can take the city bus (#806) and be downtown in 40 min without having to drive in traffic and worry about parking.

You might check out the vloggers at Leave Everywhere and Wander, they bought two places in Sicily which they are renovating.

And they just had a daughter.

I understand 3 bases but that's not what we want to do. We'll already be in Italy for a month at that point. This is strictly for a laid back stay to experience culture not to see the entire island, at least not this trip

We spent 10 days in Palermo last November and loved it. We liked being able to walk to many great plazzas, museums, restaurants and neighborhoods. With a month you could also do short car rentals to places like Trapani, Erice and Segesta.

That's our plan. And that you for the suggestions. What area of Palermo did you stay in?

If you plan to be downtown, look at the area near the Teatro Massimo and Teatro Politeama.
If occasionally you want to rent a car, in that area there are rental offices with Hertz and Sicily By Car (which is big in Sicily)
If you want to stay at a beach location for R&R, then Mondello is a nice spot. If you intend to have a car the whole time, and not just for short term rental, Mondello will have also apartment accommodations, in many instances with parking.
If you want to stay totally out of Palermo (with a car), then Scopello is really relaxing, and so is Castellammare del Golfo. They are ecellent for day trips in Western Sicily also.

Thank you!

For a three-week stay on the east coast — of your three options, Ortigia would be my choice. We enjoyed beautiful Taormina for a few days, and made a quick stop in Aci Trezza, but I think it’s much too small for 3 weeks. We have friends who loved their relaxing three weeks in Ortigia.

I know you’re trying to limit this trip but I hope you might consider a one night stop in Agrigento, to see the temples at sundown, on your way to Palermo.

Rick & Fran,
I spent around 3.5 weeks in Sicily, back in 2018, and enjoyed all the places I visited.

I spent 5 nights in Ortigia and would have liked to have stayed much longer in order to explore around the area a bit more.
While in Ortigia, I visited Noto, as a day trip, via bus. If I’d had more time, I would have visited Ragusa, Modica, and Fontane Bianche.

I learned about Fontane Bianche from a nice woman I met in Ortigia.
She was saving her money to buy a shiny red Vespa just so she could go to this beautiful beach.
I didn’t make it there but it’s on my list for the next time I go to Sicily.

Here’s my trip report, if you’re interested.

Wishing you a wonderful trip!

hey hey Rick & Fran
sounds like a great trip plus a month long WOW. haven't been but would love to go
couple things to think about:
get an IDP/aaa.com. for each driver, need both IDP & drivers license together when driving, mandatory for "italy"
where ever you stay , is there parking available, free or at a cost, if not a hotel/apt how far?
september/october is harvest season with many fairs/festivals in towns & villages. we went to a wine festival (festa dell uva) on lake garda in bardolino several years ago. was fabulous with local wine, eat drink and be merry
enjoysicilia.it (events 2025)
islaguru.com (sicily 2025 festival guide)
dicasainsicilia.com
check the event schedule. have a crazy friend whose family are sicilian. talks all the time about them, cooks fabulous & yummy meals.
gpsmycity.com
an app to download, search for city and what self guided walks they offer
airbnb/experiences/palermo or cefalu or other cities
you don't have to stay in airbnb, they offer many things to do and see with locals. top of page has 3 squares (city/nearby/ dates/how many people)
eatwith.com
type in city and see what they have (cooking class, dinner, lunch, food tour, apertif, brunch)
just some things to see and do/activities/attractions/history if you are interested. enjoy & have fun
aloha

Rick and Fran
If you are planning to spend 3 weeks I would look at the map of Sicily and mark the places you'd hope to see as day trips and from there work out where to stay. You could consider Pozzallo as a base. It's not the most beautiful place in Sicily by any means but it's got a beautiful and walkable beach and it makes a good base for visiting places like Ragusa, Modica, Noto, Ortigia (a bit farther), Scicli, the Vendicari Reserve, the Capo Passero are etc.
Ortigia would be a nicer place to stay but if you've got a car actually staying on Ortigia might be complicated and the rest of the city of Siracusa is not as relaxing and picturesque. Fontane Bianche, mentioned above, has a fantastic beach and sea but is tiny, although since you have a car that might not be a problem. It depends on your shopping and restaurant requirements, whether you are interested in the beach/sea aspect, how many days you plan to stay put versus day tripping etc. We prefer slow travel ourselves and sometimes for a longer base it’s easier to stay somewhere small, and easy to get into and out of , than in a city. For a three week stay I’d also be influenced by the accommodation – a sea view and a sunny terrace and easy parking would maybe sway me over the actual location.
Aci Trezza is similar to Pozzallo -nothing special in itself but a good base for the surrounding area. I remember the traffic in and out of Catania was offputting so maybe train that bit.
Palermo has a lot to see and do but I’m not a fan (many people are). I found it chaotic and tiring but it makes a better base for sightseeing because of all there is to see in Palermo itself. You won’t want a car there. Easy day trips to Monreale by bus and Cefalù by train. Cefalù would be a more relaxing place to stay but after three quieter weeks maybe the intense experience of Palermo would be ok?
I’ll just mention it even though it’s not on your list – Trapani makes an ideal base for a longer stay because especially with a car there are so many places nearby to visit: https://slowtravelitalyspain.blogspot.com/2019/03/trapani-october-2016-trip-report.html