We have 5 days/6 nights reserved in Menaggio this summer (early July). Originally I imagined spending time on the ferries going to Bellagio and Varenna and exploring those areas as well as driving our car to different parts of the lake and maybe a day's drive to Lugano. Now I'm hearing that Lugano is not that interesting - not even worth the trouble and that getting a ride on the ferry is also problematic. Do you have any recommendations how we should spend our days (besides standing in line)?
I feel your pain , as Lake Como was previously one of our favorite areas and we were so disappointed by the crowds this past May.
Perhaps get up early and explore the lake towns then. Buy all day ferry tickets at 7:30am, get on a ferry before 9:00am, engage in activities 10- 1:00pm, then hop on a ferry back to your home base? I don't know when the return ferry lines start getting bad. I do believe you can buy a six day ferry pass, so that convenience may be worth the cost.
Ideas-
Varenna - Monastero Gardens and spritz afterwards at Bar Il Molo, (with one of the best lake views.)
Lenno- Villa Balbianello, buy tickets in advance, use the private motorboats from the ferry landing to the Villa.
Bellagio- walk around, unique shops, wander
Tremezzo -Villa Carlotta - extensive gardens and views.
So my advice is just to be out early, and perhaps then you can experience the peace and beauty of the lake. Good luck!
Second recommendation for Bar Il Molo. Food was pretty good and the view was phenomenal. Also second Villa Balbeianello, amazing in so many respects. That is a villa with a lot of history
We did the RS guidebook walking tours for both Varenna and Bellagio, we thought both tours were very helpful in terms of seeing the sites.
I really enjoyed the short walk through the gorge in Bellano – Orrido di Bellano. I also think it's interesting to take the funicular up to Brunate - Funicolare Como-Brunate. A visit to the city of Como would also be worthwhile.
I walked much of the Lake Como Greenway, starting at the easy-to-find southern end. It was the most fun I had during my 4-night stay last year. The Greenway takes you through some small villages, and there are often good views of the lake. The Greenway is on the west side of the lake. There's some information on line, and last year there were some small brochures at the tourist offices. You'll always know where the lake is--downhill--but a Greenway map is occasionally helpful for being sure you're on the right route. I initially tried, and faiked to walk up to the Greenway in the area of Tremezzo, but I couldn't be sure I was on the right path; there aren't a lot of markings.
By late August it was hard to find a printed copy of the ferry schedule, so be sure to print one before you leave home. Expect it to be confusing.
Although you do need ferries to move between Varenna, Bellagio and Menaggio, the west side of the lake (not sure about the east side) is served by hourly buses. There's normally some train service on the east side of the lake, going at least as far north as Bellano, but there may be replacement buses this summer due to railway maintenance. The schedule should be on the Trenitalia website.