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4 days in Rome (ancient history focused)

Hey all my head is spinning trying to get my 4 day itinerary together for Rome in October and am looking for guidance / suggestions. We are mostly interested in ancient historical sites / ruins. Not as interested in museums or art galleries. Less interested in Trevi Fountain and Spanish Steps. These are my thoughts:


Day 1 (Monday):

  • Land at 7:30am from overnight flight - drop off bags at hotel
  • Can't figure out how to structure this day at all. Want to leisurely see some sites. Not looking to jam pack the day or do any high intensity tours.
  • Thoughts: Pantheon, Trajan Market/Forum, Largo di Torre Argentina, Capitoline Hill (possibly with museum depending on energy level) - all seem relatively close to each other
  • 5:30pm 3.5 hour Food tour through Campo di Fiori, Ghetto, and Traverste (already booked)
  • Go to sleep early

Day 2 (Tuesday)

  • Colosseum and Roman Forum
  • Option 1: guided tour (3 hours) - if we do morning tour, would it be insane to try and go to Ostia Antica in the afternoon? If so, what else would you suggest?
  • Option 2: tickets direct from official website and get an audioguide. Would try for Underground or Attico depending on availability and would plan to do Colosseum in the morning, lunch, then forum with SUPER sites in the afternoon

Day 3 (Wednesday)

  • Day trip to Tivoli to visit Hadrian's Villa and Villa d'est - undecided on if we should splurge on a guided tour or just take a taxi (husband not interested in doing public transport, says will take close to 2 hours), Price for guided tour and doing a taxi with buying entrance tickets all end up being similar pricing, just the former keeps us on a tighter schedule and the latter lets us go at our own pace
  • Alternatively, could do Ostia Antica instead. What are people's suggestions?

Day 4: (Thursday)

  • Vatican Museum & Sistine Chapel guided tour 12pm - already booked
  • Would like to fit in St. Peter's Basillica, Climb the Dome, Castle Sant Angelo to this day as well. Which should I do before the tour and which should I do after? Do I need reserved timed ticket to climb the dome?

Thank you to any suggestions and help - I am having such a hard time figuring out the best way to break everything up. It is not my first time in Rome (although last time I was there was MANY years ago), but it is my husband's first time and he is VERYYY excited and interested in ancient history. I just want to show him a great time!!

Of note, I am also interested in the Baths of Caracalla, Appia Way, Capppuchin Crypts (or other crypts), but I am just not sure I have enough time to fit those in. Unless you would suggest replacing some of what I have with any of these things?

Posted by
569 posts

First, I salute you in earnest for your interest in ancient history. I'm a history fanatic. I visited Rome in 1994 and again in 2002.

In general, your itinerary looks good.

For day two, I think it would be pushing it to see the Colosseum and Roman Forum and Ostia Antica. An alternative is to visit the Jewish Ghetto of Rome. The main synagogue has an A-level museum, the temple itself features a superb design and there are multiple ancient Roman ruins in the neighborhood. The Jewish neighborhood hosts a part of the Teatro Marcello, which was the model for the actual Colosseum. I found the Teatro Marcello more interesting than the Colosseum. Go here and scroll down to see the Marcello: https://civitavecchia.portmobility.it/en/roman-ghetto-history-how-get-there-and-where-eat#:~:text=We%20recommend%20a%20walk%20through%20these%20ruins.&text=From%20the%20Portico%20d'Ottavia,%2C%20as%20the%20classical%20amphitheatres).

Ostia Antica is worth visiting. I saw it on my 2022 trip. Fit it in somewhere.

The Appian Way is an excellent walk or bicycle ride. It's like walking through history with the monuments, ancient structures and aqueducts. I walked the Appian to Aqueduct Park (https://www.romesightseeing.net/aqueduct-park/). If you bicycle the Appian, be extra careful: I saw a woman who had tumbled from her bicycle. You would be bicycling over 2,000-year-old pavement.

The Christian Catacombs are definitely worth visiting (and they're near the Appian Way): https://www.catacombesancallisto.it/en/index.php

I cannot answer your question on day four because I have not been to Castle Sant Angelo. However, the Vatican Museum and Sistine Chapel (and St. Peter's Basilica) are excellent sites.

If you really want to geek out on history -- I certainly did -- you could visit Pompeii and come back in a day. I did that in 2002. However, if you went there and back to Rome in a single day, you'd probably miss the Naples Archeological Museum, which holds the artifacts from Pompeii. Also, Naples is a pretty cool city. (Keep in mind that Pompeii is about 20 miles outside of Naples, but you can get to Pompeii via a bus or transit or splurge on an Uber.)

Yet one more idea: You could tour some of the breathtaking churches in Rome's center. Some I saw: The Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore, San Giovanni in Laterano (the first Vatican), Santa Maria in Trastevere, Santa Prassede & San Zeno Chapel (probably the most amazing and some tourists miss them) and San Clemente.

Posted by
136 posts

Wow thank you so so much for all of those wonderful suggestions! I am going to look into all of them! I’m trying my hardest to balance out my days as best I can.

Posted by
7193 posts

I love food tours but pretty sure I would not make thru 3.5 hours in an arrival jet lagged day
YMMV

Posted by
6537 posts

It seems like you have more than enough to do in Rome so IMO, you should save Pompeii for another trip. That said, you could do Ostia which I highly recommend. It is a quick trip from city center and fascinating. It has all the Roman history on a smaller scale. There is some shade, grass and a nice little museum. The mosaics of the market area are spectacular and the frescoes of the restaurant menu items are very fun to see. I haven't see Tivoli so I can't advise on which would be the better trip. I never find catacombs or crypts to be all that interesting.

The Borghese is not on your list, it's a fabulous smaller museum. I liked it better than the Vatican museum. Consider if you have time somewhere. You need to arrange tickets well in advance.

Again, I'm not sure you have the time, but I liked Craig's list of suggested churches and could recommend more.

Posted by
653 posts

Hi dkinny!

I too am planning a trip to Rome in October!

Arrival Day: (my plane lands at 11:30am) Wander around the Imperial Fora, Mercati di Traiano Museo dei Fori Imperiali, Trajan's column. Then see the Basilica of San Clemente and the Temple of Mithras under it.

Colosseum and Forum day: I'm hoping to add the Palatine Hill or the Capitoline Museums, or the view from the Monument to Victor Emmanuel II, depending on how much energy I have.

I'm trying to work in the Jewish synagogue but my trip coincides with the Jewish holidays so it's closed more days than usual. On my St. Peter's Basilica day I'm thinking I can tour the church and climb the dome before lunch, so that should work for your Vatican Museums tour. And then see the Castle Sant'Angelo afterwards.

Have a great time,
Marty

Posted by
136 posts

Oh my goodness I didn’t see any of those other replies come in til now, sorry for the late response!

Thank you for all of those suggestions!!

Someone mentioned concern about the 3.5 food tour on day one. I know it sounds ridiculous but it always works for us after a red eye. Gives us an intro to the city, allows us to not think about where to eat dinner on our first night, and keeps us awake so that when it’s over, we crash and wake up the next morning without jet leg.

Marty, I think my day one will be fairly similar to yours!!

This is how I’m mostly breaking it up, after some thought. I’m aware we probably won’t fit in every last thing, so I do have priority lists, but in case I do have time and energy, this is my general plan:


Day 1 (Monday):

  • Land at 7:30am, drop bags to hotel
  • Pantheon, Trajan Market/Forum, Largo di Torre Argentina, Capitoline Hill
  • 5:30pm 3.5 hour Food tour through Campo di Fiori, Ghetto, and Traverste (already booked)
  • Go to sleep early

Day 2 (Tuesday)

  • Colosseum (hopefully Attica tickets, pending availability, waiting for 30 days out)
  • Lunch
  • Forum with super sites
  • Circus Maximus - walk by
  • Basilica St. John Lateran & Scala Sacra (Holy Stairs), Basilica San Clement (all on my “if we have time/energy” list)
  • Dinner

Day 3 (Wednesday)

  • day trip to Ostia Antica (not going to Tivoli anymore as we only have time for one)
  • nothing specific planned for the afternoon. Either anything we didn’t get to from the prior days or leisurely walk around
  • Dinner

Day 4: (Thursday)

  • St. Peter’s Basilica in the morning, climb the dome if we feel we have time, if not we won’t
  • Vatican Museum & Sistine Chapel guided tour 12pm - already booked
  • Lunch
  • head over to Castle Sant Angelo. Will make a game day decision if we want to go inside or not depending on energy levels. Have a feeling we won’t go in. If we don’t will walk past it, walk over the bridge, go through Piazza Navona
  • Dinner
  • Hoping for night tour of the Colosseum (pending availability, tickets released 7 days prior)

Again, I’m aware of how busy this itinerary is. I’m aware we may not get to everything. It’s hard to know what our energy levels will be and how long we’ll take at each site, so I try to have a lot of options. Figured this was a good general guideline and we’ll get to whatever we can. Anything else we’ll have to come back for!

Posted by
182 posts

I'm not going to provide an itinerary, but make sure you go to Ostia Antica. In some ways, it is a better experience than Pompeii. It is easily reached by the train. Get off at the stop "Ostia Antica."

The catacombs near the Aqueduct were some of my favorite. You can walk on the Appian Way there!

Posted by
80 posts

Another suggestion to consider: your ticket for the Colosseum and the Forum is good for 24 hours. We actually visited the Forum the following morning, right when it opened. It was so lovely and peaceful! Most people seem to do Colosseum and then Forum so it gets quite crowded in the afternoons.

So, you could consider the Forum first thing in the morning, then on to Ostia Antica after that.

Logistically this may not make sense depending on where you’re staying, since of course you’ll be right there after the Colosseum already. But we really enjoyed the experience of it being nearly empty!

Posted by
136 posts

Thank you for the suggestion! I. Have colosseum tickets (secured full experience attic tickets) for 10:50am. Do you think it’s enough time to do the forum (and super sites) first thing in the morning beforehand? Probably too rushed, right? Otherwise I’ll consider going in the morning before Ostia Antica. I am staying in the Monti area, so very easy for me to get to the forum

Posted by
1030 posts

Hi there, it's great you've done so much research ahead of time. Since your trip is fairly full, I would take a look at where to eat ahead of time, drop in slices of pizza are easy, usually no need to book lunch, just have a few ideas nearby. Also ask at your hotel, they will have good ideas and make suggestions where you need to book for dinner. Also, it looks like you're going to the Coliseum twice, once during the day and then hoping for a night time tour, IMO I would do one or the other, & you can walk over there one evening from nearby Monti and have an amazing view with it lit up, that would probably be enough. My other comments are in italics below

Day 1 (Monday):
Land at 7:30am, drop bags to hotel

Consider booking a taxi from the airport via your hotel, sometimes taxi lines can be long and you have an action packed day ahead! You need cash for that taxi, usually E65
Pantheon, Trajan Market/Forum, Largo di Torre Argentina (Lago TA is definitely out of the way from the other monuments, your food tour on the first day will come quite close to it when you get to Campo di Fiori you can stroll by., Capitoline Hill

When you walk up the Capitoline hill, go past the statue & turn slightly right down the hill past museum for a great view out over the Forum
5:30pm 3.5 hour Food tour through Campo di Fiori, Ghetto, and Trastevere (already booked)

Day 2 (Tuesday)
Colosseum (hopefully Attica tickets, pending availability, waiting for 30 days out)
Lunch
Forum with super sites
Circus Maximus - walk by - I really wouldn't bother going out of your way for the Circus Maximus.
Basilica St. John Lateran & Scala Sacra (Holy Stairs), Basilica San Clement (all on my “if we have time/energy” list)
Dinner
Day 3 (Wednesday)

Day trip to Ostia Antica (not going to Tivoli anymore as we only have time for one)
Nothing specific planned for the afternoon. Either anything we didn’t get to from the prior days or leisurely walk around.

Since it seems you like to pack it in, HA, you mentioned the Baths of Caracalla & Appian Way, maybe take a look at a 1/2 day bike tour out to the walls and catacombs, it would be a nice break from central Rome.
Dinner

Day 4: (Thursday)
Consider taking a taxi from Monti (find out where the nearest taxi stand is located) to St Peters, you're going to do a lot of walking that day!
St. Peter’s Basilica in the morning, climb the dome if we feel we have time, if not we won’t
Vatican Museum & Sistine Chapel guided tour 12pm - already booked
Lunch - You can eat lunch inside museum.
Head over to Castle Sant Angelo. Will make a game day decision if we want to go inside or not depending on energy levels. Have a feeling we won’t go in.VERY unlikely after all that walking! If we don’t will walk past it, walk over the bridge, (with gorgeous Bernini statues on either side!) go through Piazza Navona. I'm so glad you mentioned a famous Baroque plaza (redesigned over and over since ancient Roman days) and amazing fountain. Consider taking a slight detour past the Trevi Fountain on your way back to hotel, it will be very crowded in the afternoon but it's so beautiful. Personally, I can't imagine going to Rome without visiting some of it's most famous fountains. OR plan on stopping at Trevi Fountain first thing in the morning?
Dinner
Hoping for night tour of the Colosseum (pending availability, tickets released 7 days prior)

Posted by
175 posts

Craig from Chicago - thank you for your suggestions. I am saving them for my winter visit to Rome.

Posted by
136 posts

Wow, thank you so so much for that invaluable advice!! My responses to your responses:

  • I know going to the Colosseum twice is overkill, but my husband is adamant about wanting to physically see every last part. We have Attic tickets already and so if we can get the night tour tickets, that'll allow us to walk through the underground and arena as well. Also liked the idea of having it guided since our attic tickets are unguided. I truly hear you on it being overkill, but I think we're still going to try to get those night tickets. We also feel like it'll be a nice way to end our stay in Rome as it would be our last activity before bed and then waking up the next morning to leave for our next destination.
  • Will definitely ask our hotel for restaurant recommendations. We tend to like to roam around to find restaurants that catch our eye, but will likely make a reservation or two just in case. It's overwhelming looking into all the restaurants, there's so many options!!
  • We were planning on taking the airport train to Termini which seemed reliable enough and a lot cheaper, but will look more into it and consider a taxi. Good tip on needing cash for the taxi, I always forget about that since we usually use Uber back home.
  • I didn't realize Largo Argentina was really out of the way from those other sites, seemed relatively in the same area. But yes will plan to do that on our way over to the meeting point for the food tour since it's very close.
  • Thank you for the suggestion on the viewpoint on Capitoline Hill that sounds perfect!
  • I sort of agree with your Circus Maximus comment, but curious on your reasoning. That was originally not in our plans at all but my husband insisted on seeing it. Is there another way to see it without going too out of our way? Like from a viewpoint somewhere else?
  • On Day 3 after Ostia Antica, will definitely consider going to Baths of Caracalla. If I had a whole extra day I would add in an ebike tour of Appia way, but it seems we likely won't have time as they are usually around 5 hours long and the latest ones I see start at 1pm (unless I can find a shorter sunset one that day.. I'll look into that further). It was definitely on my list of interests, just really don't have enough time for everything I don't think.
  • Will definitely be taking a taxi to St. Peter's, although was going to also look into the metro since our hotel is close to that and avoids morning rush hour traffic.
  • I didn't realize you can eat at the Vatican museum, that's not a bad idea.
  • Yes I'm not expecting to have enough energy to go into Castle Sant'Angelo, but on the list as a just incase.
  • The focus of our trip in Rome is ancient history so we are a bit less interested in Baroque plazas/statues. I have been to Rome many years ago and have seen the Trevi fountain and my husband said it wasn't his priority, so that's why we didn't really include it. But I am sure we will make our way over for at least a quick pass by, likely after the Vatican on our way back to our hotel.

Again, thank you SO much for all of your advice!!

Posted by
1030 posts

Hi, so glad some of the suggestions were useful! My comment about food & meals has more to do with just how much walking and how many activities you have planned, which I put into a bespoke Google map just to know where to catch a bite. I have no experience with the Vatican Museum cafe, just that there is one. Sorry to ADD ideas to what is already an action-packed trip but since you asked...

I sort of agree with your Circus Maximus comment, but curious on your reasoning. That was originally not in our plans at all but my husband insisted on seeing it. Is there another way to see it without going too out of our way? Like from a viewpoint somewhere else?

To me it just looks like a long, oblong track with little to see is the short answer... but there's a very nice view from the Orange Garden, “Giardino degli Aranci“ on the Aventine hill with fabulous views overlooking Rome & St Peters. We did take a taxi up to the hill and walked back. I think we could see the Circus Maximus either from the garden or on the slow walk back down via an old cobblestone pathway (just stay left after leaving the garden, you won’t miss it) and came out close to the oldest temple in Rome. Or maybe easier to just ask the taxi driver to go by Circus M on one of your jaunts?

About taxis into Rome - the taxis at official stand at airport should take credit cards, but best to ask, it’s only if you order a taxi through your hotel (which we’ve done twice) that they only accepted cash.

Here's our Trip Report from last NYE in Rome, maybe useful. Have a fabulous trip!!
https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/rome-was-jammed-over-ny-but-still-fun

Posted by
4618 posts

Basilica San Clemente should be on your "must" list not your "if I have time" list because it's very different from the ruins.

Posted by
136 posts

Thank you for the suggestion of Giardino degli Aranci on Aventine Hill. I actually read that you can see Circus Maximus from on top of Palatine Hill, which we'll already be going to as it's included in the Colosseum/Forum tickets. I think that should suffice. I'm aware there's not much to it, but my husband was insistent on at least laying eyes on it haha

Thank you Cala - we will definitely make time to visit San Clemente as we're very interested in it. Now that we secured out time slot for the Colosseum, which is at 10:50am, we will consider going to San Clemente first if we can

Posted by
4618 posts

You should check to see if they have restarted the light show at the Forum. Also, the best part of Largo Argentina ruins is that it's a cat sanctuary.

Posted by
136 posts

Ohh! Light show at the forum sounds amazing, I will look into seeing if they are doing that while I’m there (will be there first week of October). And yes very excited for the cat sanctuary at Largo di Argentina :)

Posted by
1030 posts

Good adjustments! You will need tickets to get into the lower levels of San Clemente, maybe just buy them the morning of when you know what time you're leaving the hotel?

Posted by
136 posts

Thanks for that heads up! These timed entry tickets are really the bane of my existence. It completely takes away the ability to have a leisurely trip being on a time schedule for everything. But I do get it; crowd control, avoiding long lines, etc.

Posted by
136 posts

Hey all, I am still trying to figure it out, but am realizing that the SUPER sites as part of the Roman Forum are possibly all closed after September 30th...??? Not exactly sure but that yellow calendar map at the bottom of the website indicates this. If this is the case, would it be crazy to go to the Forum on my arrival day? I happen to arrive on September 30th. It will be after an 8 hour redeye. Basically would use the day to do the Forum and my food tour booked at 5:30pm and then use the following day to do the Colosseum (10:50am) along with some of the other sites I wanted to see like Basilica San Clemente, Holy Stairs, Traijan's Markett / Domus of Palazzo Valentini, and Pantheon (will have a priority list for those and get to what I can and stop when out of energy). If so, would it make sense to do Basilica San Clemente prior to the Colosseum? Seems that the tour is 30 minutes for that.

Posted by
653 posts

Hey all, I am still trying to figure it out, but am realizing that the SUPER sites as part of the Roman Forum are possibly all closed after September 30th...??? Not exactly sure but that yellow calendar map at the bottom of the website indicates this. If this is the case, would it be crazy to go to the Forum on my arrival day? I happen to arrive on September 30th. It will be after an 8 hour redeye. Basically would use the day to do the Forum and my food tour booked at 5:30pm and then use the following day to do the Colosseum (10:50am) along with some of the other sites I wanted to see like Basilica San Clemente, Holy Stairs, Traijan's Markett / Domus of Palazzo Valentini, and Pantheon (will have a priority list for those and get to what I can and stop when out of energy). If so, would it make sense to do Basilica San Clemente prior to the Colosseum? Seems that the tour is 30 minutes for that.

Which website are you using? I tried https://ticketing.colosseo.it/en/categorie/singoli-1-8-persone/
It looks as if the October tickets haven't gone on sale yet, just through September 27 - maybe try tomorrow and see if September 28 is available. If so that bolsters my theory.

I arrive in Rome on October 4th. I'm so excited! Like your husband I'm focusing on Ancient Rome. If you get the chance, there's a subforum here for posting trip reports and I'm betting yours would be very helpful for future travelers.

Posted by
136 posts

Thanks! I think I was just probably reading too into that calendar where only hours were listed from March through September. I see they are selling super forum passes into October so I’m assuming that means it’s open. I also messaged parc archeologico on Facebook and they replied saying it’s open and confirmed that hours will be adjusted. They plan to publish those on their website this week

Hope you have a great time on your trip!

Posted by
1030 posts

Ah, glad to hear you're sorting out your tickets! Frankly, I just don't think Trajan's markets and the museum inside will be that crowded, it's not one of the big sites. It's one of my very favorite things to look at from the street level in the evening, the 'history lasagna' of all the buildings lit up is amazing.

...some of the other sites I wanted to see like Basilica San Clemente, Holy Stairs, Trajan's Market / Domus of Palazzo Valentini, and Pantheon.

I would take a look at google maps to see what's along your existing route. Both Trajan's Market & the Domus of Palazzo Valentini are very close to the walk along the outside of the Foro Romano towards the Capitoline Museum, so you could stop at those 2 after your visit to the Super Sites, if you still have any energy left.

Of the places you've highlighted above, I would consider getting tickets for the Pantheon first thing in the morning, when it's relatively quiet (er). As the day goes on, that area gets packed. And yes, a 4-day trip report on Ancient Rome & what worked & didn't would be great.

Posted by
77 posts

Going to the same place twice is worthwhile, to immerse in the ambience. Thats how love for the place is shown and how to bring the memory with you into the dreams of the night.

Posted by
77 posts

Ostia Antica is a must as it is the real Pompei. RS considers it the most underrated sight in the entire country.

Posted by
136 posts

Thanks for the responses! I was planning on going straight to Ostia Antica from the plane actually until I realized it was closed on Monday’s haha we have plans to go to Ostia Antica next Wednesday instead!

Also funny enough you mentioned going to a place twice to immerse.. I actually ended up scoring the underground night tour for next Thursday!! So will be my second visit to the colosseum this trip after the Attica 2 days prior!! We are soooo excited to see it twice and in its entirety from all perspectives, high/low and day/night!!

Posted by
1030 posts

Cherryplanter is so right about soaking in a place, whether by seeing it twice or just having enough time to absorb it. We also find watching Youtube short documentaries on the places we were going to see really helped us get the most out of our trips. We like Khan Academy 'Smart History' (literally 5-10 minutes on a subject) and Ancient Rome Live, which I just watched about the Circus Maximus, still not much to see but what a history! Here's a good one on Trajan's Forum - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vqiRkyqxi5k

Posted by
136 posts

Thank you!! Will have to take a look at that: maybe I’ll try to download a view for the plane. We leave for Rome in 2 days!!

Posted by
1030 posts

OH, fantastic! In that case, I'd just have a look at Smart History for your specific sights. At some point you mentioned needing cash for taxis, that's only if they say (claim) their meter isn't working, they're suppose to take credit & debit card. Wear the BEST walking shoes you own, no matter how ugly. We wear our hiking boots during the day in Rome, cobblestones are tough on the feet. Hope you have a wonderful trip!

Posted by
136 posts

Thank you for all the great advice!! We'll have some cash as "just in case" but mostly will do credit card if we can (to get the points!). And yes definitely comfy shoes!! I used to bring heels for evening in case I wanted to dress up, but for the first time am leaving them all at home. It's just not worth it on the cobblestone!

Posted by
111 posts

I just came back from Rome a few weeks ago. You can see Circus Maximus from Palatine Hill, near the house of Augustus and gardens of Augustus.

Don't underestimate the time needed to thoroughly see the Colosseum, Roman Forum and Palatine Hill. There's a lot to absorb.

A visit to Ostia Antica can be a whole day event, if you walk the full length of the main road and take a museum visit (worth it). Try to find Schola del Traiano about 3/4 of the way down to see some amazing floor mosaics. Hard to believe the condition after 2000 years, most exposed to the elements. DM me if you want to see some pics. IMHO, that and the amphitheater are the best sights there.

I did not see Domus Aurea in your itinerary. Well worth a visit and close to the Colosseum. Nero's palace was buried by subsequent emperors and discovered intact in the 1700s. Some ceiling and wall frescoes, but stone veneers gone now. The mandatory guided tour includes a short VR experience.

Enjoy!

Posted by
1030 posts

Hey there OP, just wondering how your trip went and if you'd care just add some info here on the thread about what worked and what maybe didn't work so well, would be great to hear!