Hi All,
thanks so much for taking the time to share your experiences and opinions. I have been reading in this forum for a while, and decided to post because there's a lot of good advice. And you have all given me some good information and valid concerns.
Let me clarify that I am not a "newbie" to Italy, just haven't been in Sicily. I have been to Italy 5 times if you don't count 10+ trips to the Italian Alps - I am actually from Europe, and have travelled nearly exclusively by train (or as a kid, also in the family car), including overnight. We are also not the type of travelers who typically travel in a rush. I actually always tell others who go to a country the first time to take their time - see less, experience more. We went to Lake Como in 2016 with a then 9-year old; we came by train from my home country where we were visiting my very elderly mom. We visited the local Tourist office and asked a grumpy attendant for a map and some things to do with a kid. She started rattling one day-visit options until I stopped her and said we'd be staying 8 days in one spot. That elicited the biggest smile and a lot of friendly information. We had planned to go back in 2020 for 11 days but the pandemic happened.
I totally agree that Palermo deserves more than a glimpse and we will be driving a lot the first 2 days in Sicily.
But our trip as a whole is framed by my son's school trip itinerary - he's going with his Latin teacher who has lived several years in Italy and is also an archeologist. We have to meet the group in the vicinity of Taormina on a specific night to pick up our son (otherwise he'd gotta fly back home with the group) and unless we want to cut our stay in Rome way too short, and spend less than 3 days on Amalfi coast (with Salerno as a base thanks to its good ferry connections ), we just don't have more days in Sicily. We are returning from there to Rome to meet up with colleagues/friends at a university there, then have some more unscheduled Rome time, before taking an inner-European flight to visit family for close to a week (staying in one place!).
Night trains aren't for everyone, I agree. My Italian colleagues thought it a viable option. I'd rather travel by night than spend precious hours of a vacation day commuting to and from airports. I see the train/ sleeper car as an adventure - maybe we won't do it again. I can report back : )
Seeing Agrigento is kind of a bucket list thing for me - even though it will be rushed. But we are staying the night there in walking distance from the temples at an agrotourism B&B, so at least it will an immersive experience. I don't think we have enough time to take the bus to Agrigento... Thus, rental car it has to be...
Driving in Palermo to get on the cross island road is certainly not ideal, but the time we might get stuck in traffic won't be longer than the time it would take to commute to the airport to get a rental car there. Please let me know if you think otherwise - that's why I posted - I value the opinion of those who have been there. Would you rather go to the airport (30-45 minutes commute?) to avoid Palermo traffic?
Maybe we should skip Monreale, especially since the main church closes midday, and I do share some concerns about luggage safety in the car. It would give us more time for a morning stroll in Palermo to just get a glimpse of it - we do hope to come back here, and the rest of Sicily, with much more time to spend. But who knows when that may be. I never thought we couldn't return to Lake Como as planned for the reasons we couldn't...
For those of you who have been to Monreale: Would you recommend to skip it for a less rushed day? Or is it absolutely a must-see that one shouldn't miss no matter what? I am very aware that there will be other fabulous site on Sicily we will not see (e.g. Noto)...
Many thanks!!