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4 day Florence itinerary for the less museum-inclined

Hi All,

You've all been great at helping me finalize my 4 day Venice itinerary, and now I have drafted my initial attempt at an itinerary for Florence. We leave in 27 days (eeeeek!) so while I am beyond excited I am also starting to feel the stress about getting this solidified. We will be arriving via train from Venice and leaving after 4 nights via train to Bologna for our final 2 nights.

A little about us: "we" are me, 30, and Mom, 60. I spent about a day and a half in Florence with a school trip as a teenager and fell head over heels in love with the city in that time. I have since vowed that someday I would take my Mom to the city that swept me away, and now, for her 60th birthday, we are doing just that! We are not typical museum people, but will go to some of there is something in particular that interests us. We are also not art lovers, unless it happens to be in its original location, like on the ceiling of a church etc. This means that we are skipping the Uffizi. I fully expect a few hushed gasps as it is so widely and highly regarded, but it's not our thing and our travel time is limited. What we do love is history, exploring side streets and small shops, markets, yummy food, beautiful views and memorable experiences. Keep in mind a few of these spots are intended to relive a few memories from my high school days and so may not be traditional stopping points.

Here is what I have as a first run:

Day 6: Thursday, March 23rd -FLORENCE
7:26am: Train departs Venice for Florence
- Arrive in Florence 9:39am
- 5 min walk to hotel - Apollo Guest House - drop bags
11:00am: Basilica di Santa Croce (20 min walk) - do we need timed tickets?
- Pass Duomo on the way
12:30pm: Lunch at All’Antico Vinaio (famous sandwich shop)
- Huge! Consider splitting
1:30pm: Piazza della Signoria
2:30pm: Mercato Nuovo aka Mercato del Porcellino
- Leather market from school trip (closes 6:30pm)
- Carpisa is nearby on Via dei Calzaiouli
5:30pm: Taxi to Piazzale Michelangelo for Sunset
- Walk back down to Oltrarno
- Dinner - where?

Day 7: Friday, March 24th - FLORENCE
8:30am: Accademia Gallery - David (15 min walk)
- Leave hotel early, get light breakfast on the way
9:45am: San Lorenzo Market
11:30am: Lunch at Mercato Centrale
- Drop any purchases off back at hotel
1:00pm: Church of Santa Maria Novella (likely outside only)
- Walk to Piazza della Repubblica (if need to kill time)
2:15pm: Duomo Hidden Terraces Tour with Ciao Florence
- Duomo Museum
- Baptistery Doors
5:45pm: Ponte Vecchio
- Sunset 6:20pm
- Dinner in Oltrarno
- Exploring area, little shops - are they still open at this time of day?

Day 8: Saturday, March 25th - FLORENCE
Day Trip to Tuscan hill town(s)
- Considering a few options, either Siena by bus, Pisa & Lucca by train or Val D'Orcia region via private tour

Day 9: Sunday, March 26th - FLORENCE
Free morning - where to explore? - spend a few hours outside Florence?
3:00pm: Pasta Making Class (3hrs)

My Venice itinerary was initially felt to be too packed, how about this one? The times are meant to give us a guide to know if we are on track to meet our few timed places, not a rigid schedule. Anything else that would fit well here given our preferences?

Thank you again!

PQ

Posted by
6078 posts

I think it looks fine.
Don't feel bad about what you skip- it's your trip. We visited Florence for 2nd time last spring and skipped all museums!

11:00am: Basilica di Santa Croce (20 min walk) - do we need timed
tickets?

We just walked up. Were there at a very crowded time last May- no need to prebook.

We are also not art lovers, unless it happens to be in its original
location, like on the ceiling of a church etc.

Given this you should add San Marco Museum to your list. Far Angelica frescoes in situ.
And maybe Brancacci Chapel

Posted by
6522 posts

And maybe Or San Michele church, originally a granary, right in the center of things. I thought Santa Croce was amazing, and don't miss the Pazzi Chapel next door.

Posted by
193 posts

I was there last May and had a splendid time. When you're up at Piazalle Michelangelo, consider dropping by the nearby San Miniato al Monte church and graveyard. There were some sweet monuments, WW 2 mementos, and Franco Zeffirelli's family tomb. The piazza outside Santa Maria Novella is one of my favorite sunset/gelato/passagiatta places, and there are at least two good gelato shops nearby. Have a lovely time!

Posted by
1391 posts

Have the taxi take you all the way to the church above Piazzale Michelangelo called San Miniato al Monte --- you can walk down to the Piazzale after the church if you want. Art in situ galore, beautiful floor and mosaic, might be evening singing, nice saint story (they cut off his head but he carried it across the Arno and to the top of this hill), nice cemetery, beautiful medieval facade. If you walk all the way down the hill, you could eat at Osteria Antica Mescita San Niccolò --- we ate there twice.

I am a major art lover, but here comes my own "gasp" confession: I could have skipped the David if I were pressed for time. There are just too many other wonderful things to see in Florence. Instead, I think you would like touring the Palazzo Davanzati (to see what a medieval house is like inside) and perhaps the very small Benozzo Gozzoli chapel in the Palazzo Medici Riccardi (I skipped the whole rest of that palazzo and you can, too).

There is definitely an historical aura to just being on the Ponte Vecchio, but it actually looks better seen from another bridge.

We've stayed several nights in Siena and Pisa and Lucca, and I'm going to vote Siena --- there's nowhere quite like it for just walking round, although I think you would love seeing Lorenzetti's "The Allegory of Good and Bad Government" frescoes in the Palazzo Pubblico.

I'm basing my recommendations on what my husband has actually enjoyed of all the hundreds of "art stuff" he's been kind enough to go with me to see.

Your plans look good and doable!

Posted by
7366 posts

ChristineH is right about the Museo di San Marco at the former convent - the Fra Angelico frescoes in several of the monks’ cells are in situ, and marvelous. One surprise was the one that’s practically surreal, centuries ahead of Salvador Dali. There’s also Savanarola’s cell, with some of his personal artifacts, including his hair shirt. And check out Cosimo de’Medici’s cell at the end of the hall, bigger than the others for his occasional visits, but hardly luxurious.

A note about the All'antico Vinaio shop: we were in Florence this past October. The “main” shop, on Via dei Neri, had horrendous lines. The line was so long that employees ushered people along both sides of the street, and trying to walk down the edge of the street, as a taxi suddenly came down it, the mob on my side suddenly all moved at once, and I got pushed into the side of a building. It was a very unpleasant experience, trying to get by that mob, and the people waiting in line couldn’t have been thrilled by the prospect of waiting, what, maybe 2 hours? The lines were that long. There was a fantastic sandwich/meat platter shop 2 doors down, called La Schiacciata, at number 70 Via dei Neri, and we squeezed in to a table and ate there that day.

But then, 2 days later, we discovered another All'antico Vinaio location, across the street from the back end of the Accademia, on the corner, at Via Ricasoli, 121/R, with absolutely no crowds, but the same sandwiches. It’s also adjacent to a small park, the Piazza di San Marco, with benches, where we ate our sandwiches. And on the other side of the park is the Museo di San Marco - so on one day we conveniently saw the Accademia (David, plus some amazing antique musical instruments, including a 5-string double bass), sandwich at the uncrowded All'antico Vinaio (get the La Schiaggiata del Boss sandwich, with truffle), and San Marco, before it closed pretty early, at 2pm. Then, still had time for more Florence.

You might also consider time at the Boboli Gardens, on the Oltrarno side, next to the Pitti Palace. Lemon trees, fountains, lots of in situ statues that have been outside there for centuries: You can get a nice walk in, too, level or up and down some serious hills, if you like.

Dinner in Oltrarno, especially if you like seafood: Burro & Acciughe, at Via dell'Orto, 35/R.

Brancaci Chaoel is now severely limiting how many people they let in in a day. We missed out on one of my very favorite places in October … was totally sold out days ahead. Book tickets very early if you want to see it.

Posted by
2304 posts

hey hey theplanningqueen:
tasteatlas.com/ bomoloni
italian fried donuts, scroll down to where you can purchase them
educated-traveller.com/ wine windows of florence
atlasobscura.com/ babae wine windows
took a pedicab tour thru florence and our driver took us by these windows, learned the history, they were not open since many was being refurbished/remodeled to continue the tradition
vivoli.it
in historic center of florence near santa croce. the family creates and produces home made ice creams, also makes pastries
i'm not much art/museum influenced (oh well) but just enjoy walking around, visiting shops/small stores/cafes sitting down watching the world go by soaking up the atmosphere, the friendly people, talking with our hands and laughing, it was great
loved the mercato centrale and it's a fun place with so much to see, do, and eat. we also took a cooking class upstairs
one tip: never hail a taxi with your hand, get a phone number or app or stop at a taxi stand.
we had no real plans, walked and roamed around, people watched, stopped a small cafe/restaurant down an alleyway away from tourists central and just enjoyed sharing our meals, there was 4 of us, along with 2 bottles of wine at table. had osso buco somewhere and sausage or beef ragu with pappardelle pasta and both were so good.
have fun and enjoy time with mom, she'll love it and spending time with you.
aloha

Posted by
15818 posts

Planningqeen, it's actually refreshing to see someone actually admit that they don't have a burning desire to do the Uffizi. It was a must for me but I get it that it's not everyone's cuppa, and I wish more visitors would skip it rather than think they HAVE to do it because everyone else does!

To agree with and add to the art in situ list:

The Fra Angelico frescoes at San Marco: definitely!
San Miniato: another gotta-do!

Another favorite? Ghirlandaio's frescoes in the Sassetti Chapel at Santa Trinita. They are a capture of some contemporary figures as they really looked, right down to the style of their clothing, and some glimpses of 15th century Florence in the backgrounds. Look for one of the rare portraits of Lorenzo "The Magnificent" de Medici and his sons.

https://www.visitflorence.com/florence-churches/santa-trinita.html
http://www.museumsinflorence.com/musei/santa-trinita.html
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sassetti_Chapel

As well, the frescoes in the entry cloister of Basilica della Santissima Annunziata:
https://www.visitflorence.com/florence-churches/santissima-annunziata.html
http://www.museumsinflorence.com/musei/Santissima-Annunziata.html
https://www.visitflorence.com/florence-monuments/piazza-ss-annunziata.html

Oh, and this from Nancy:

There is definitely an historical aura to just being on the Ponte
Vecchio, but it actually looks better seen from another bridge.

No question; the thing is much more impressive seen from anywhere but ON it!

Posted by
3123 posts

I also love Florence and have been there 9 times.
Be sure to find time to sit on a bench and people watch.
The area between the Baptistery and the Duomo is where I sit for half an hour just watching .
You see all sorts!

Posted by
59 posts

When I read when you said " What we do love is history, exploring side streets and small shops, markets, yummy food, beautiful views and memorable experiences", I immediately thought you are going to love Firenze. With 4 days, you will only scratch the great sights you will be immersed into. The idea of a day trip to a hill town sounds lovely but you could be easily very busy in Firenze for 4 days and that is without even stepping a foot inside a museum. We have been to Firenze twice & our next trip is back there for at least 3 weeks to wander the streets, shops, churches, chapels, gardens - oh, so much to see. We are thinking to take a day trip to some of the towns but think we could be busy in Firenze - oh, yes, forgot to mention - people watching, eating great food and enjoying their wine. Others above have mentioned several churches and chapels that have fantastic art work "in situ" just like you are interested in. There are many streets and alleyways to just stroll along absorbing the architecture, the culture and the people who are probably the most relaxed of all Italians in a big city. Your 4 days will fly by. IF you want to travel out of Firenze, consider Fiesole - a scenic height above Firenze, 5 km (3 miles) from the city. It has structures dating to Etruscan and Roman times. And, reachable by a less than 30 min bus trip. Check out the views of Firenze & surrounding area on the net. Enjoy.