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30 day Itinerary in Naples & Sicily, review & suggestions

I have been to Amalfi Coast one week, (based in Sorrento)--- Now planning whole month May 13 -June 11-- Naples and Sicily. Intention: Naples (5 nights) and then the rest of time in Sicily (3 weeks, 2 days)--- Plan to stay in 4 cities or so, and do day trips on bus/train around the island. Maybe visit 1-2 islands (Aelian/Malta/or ? ).
Just beginning stages of plan--not committed itinerary):
Fly from San Francisco to Naples (5 nights in Naples)-- local sights and possibly day trip
- have been to archeology museum Herculeum & Pompeii already, plan to return to museum and
visit other awesome sights (Palace, any other you strongly suggest not missing)
Fly into Catania (stay 5-6 nights in Catania) (Mt. Etna, Taormina)(Godfather tour?)
Syracuse, (5 nights) ( Noto, Ragusa, Victoria?)
Agrigento (2 nights)
Palermo (7 nights)
****6 nights still free-- Fly home from Palermo. (already have flight to Naples/return from Palermo.
This leaves several days 6 free for an island or two........ or do you have any suggestion? Have not been to SICILY before (nor Calabria or anywhere South of Amalfi Coast). Have not decided if flying, train or ferry from Naples to Catania. We fly home from Palermo. Do you have any itinerary suggestions or hotel suggestions?, or must visit places or restaurants. Staying in simple but comfortable places (good bed and quiet room). Not luxury. We are 60 years old and have young hearts, newly retired!! Love culture, people, food, old history will be amazing. we are fluent in Spanish and it helps us in Italia. We do like to swim and hope to---at best beaches. Hope its warm.

Posted by
8002 posts

I’d suggest flying, especially if you want to see more of Sicily, plus time on a smaller island or two. You’ll have a generous amount of time on Sicily, seeing lots, but if you can squeeze it in, also go to (stay in) Erice/Trapani on the far western tip, after Agrigento. On your way to Palermo afterwards, pass through Valderice and the stunning Greek temple (plus theater) at Segesta.

From Siracusa, include Modica (and chocolate!) in your daytrip itinerary.

IF you wound up driving down thru Calabria to take the ferry from the mainland to Messina, Sicily, be sure to stop and see the fascinating Greek temples at Paestum (but maybe you’ve already been there), and consider a night in Castrovillari. They were just putting in superhighways when we were there 10 years ago; I’ll bet driving through the area’s now a breeze.

Posted by
3280 posts

You can take a direct overnight train from the Central Naples station to Syracuse (Siracusa) departing at 11:06p and arriving the next morning at 9:01a. It is a bumpy ride and I did not get much sleep even though I rented a sleeper car, but I was fine the next day. Another option would be to depart at 9:50a arriving in Syracuse at 6:33p: https://www.trenitalia.com/en.html. There are also nonstop flights from Naples to Catania.
A good day trip option from Palermo is Cefalu that is 1h by direct train. Here you can enjoy seaside dining al fresco style and make sure you try the cannolis, these are better than what you get here.

Posted by
11614 posts

For Siracusa, stay in Ortigia Island, the historic area. More nights needed. We spent a full week in Ortigia and could have spent another.
Ragusa,Modica, Noto- (separate from Siracusa) 4- 5 nights.
Trapani- ? and Selinunte, Erice? Include
Villa Romana Casale after these or after Agrigento.

Posted by
28249 posts

I took the night train from Rome to Catania in 2015. I was in a couchette, and it was the most miserable night of my life. The constant jerking of the carriage meant I didn't get one wink of sleep. I slept most of the next day, then I was off-kilter for several days. I don't know anything about the ferry, but I have to assume it would be better than the night train, or you could fly. Or travel by day on the train--but expect a bumpy ride.

I think you'll find you want about a week if you go to Malta; I'm not sure you'll have that much time available by the time you tweak the Sicilian itinerary; themothers have made good suggestions for additions, and I'd add Scicli to the list of interesting towns outside Siracusa. I believe the ferries between Sicily and Malta depart from an obscure town in Southern Sicily where you wouldn't otherwise go. They were quite expensive when I checked on them in 2015, so I suspect flying would be the way to go.

It's probably going to be quite hot at the time of your trip. Any possibility you could go a bit earlier? When you depend on public transportation (as I did as well), you are more exposed to the weather (waiting in non-air-conditioned train stations and at outdoor bus stops) than you would be if you were traveling in an air-conditioned rental car. If you must stick with the current schedule, don't try to cram too much into the trip. The heat can be exhausting. I was 63 in 2015, and I managed to see a lot in 17 or 18 days (despite that wretched night train), but I didn't attempt to go to the Aeolian Islands or Malta.

Posted by
15794 posts

I did a day trip to Caserta from Naples. Many people daytrip to the island of Ischia.

I had a car and stayed in beautiful Ortigia (the historic part of Syracusa). I only went to Catania for the WWII museum, traffic was horrible, so it may not be as easy as it would seem to day trip from there. Allow at least 2 days to see the sights in Syracusa and enjoy the beauty of Ortigia.

7 nights is a long time in Palermo. I just don't think there are enough sights and day trips to justify it. Places like Erice, Trapani and Marsala are too far for day trips. You can visit Cefalu by train (but it's better as an overnight).

Would you consider renting a car? I found driving outside the big cities pretty easy and you can get to a lot more places more easily. Also search for Priscilla's trip report. She visited using only public transportation.

Posted by
28249 posts

I day tripped from Catania to Taormina (by train, then via the local bus up the hill), to Piazza Armerina (by bus, then on to the Villa Romana del Casale by taxi since I was too late for the morning bus) and to Enna (by bus). I also took the train at least part if the way around Mt. Etna.
Not the fastest way to get around, but I was unwilling to rent a car.

Posted by
35 posts

Thank you all so much for your suggestions. Sooo helpful. So now we have to decide if we should rent a car. If so, when and where. We can cut days in Palermo and in Catania (if we rent car(s). I can skip Malta too. Not a must. We are very open and just want a good flavor of Sicily and its people and we want to have fun. Of course, beauty of the island is a Must, too!! I have been reading people's posts and found out there are some festivals in May in San Giorgio (25th) and Comiso (May 21 the biggest day of a festival). These sound good. The only thing I can't change is our arrival to Naples (May 13) and Leaving from Palermo (June 11). I am thinking now--- flying from Naples to Catania on May 17th. (4 nights in Naples/3 full days).

I have travelled a lot in Italia (usually train). Rented car to drive once -- from Florence to Umbria (drove around Umbria for one week). Wonderful & easy). My issue: I hear that renting car in Sicily is a real pain (Is this true?)....that it's impossible in the big cities and that parking in small villages feels impossible? We have not decided yet--- just want to have fun and not feel it was a mistake. Can you give me your opinion? Should we rent car in Siracusa and maybe somewhere else for a few days??? It would have to be automatic transmission. I love all of your suggestions ... now I can plan (not so blindly).... For us, we don't have to see everything, but just plan a trip that's fun, magical, and gives us good taste of Sicily and its special history/culture/food/PEOPLE. we like talking to people. I plan to rewrite the itinerary and may add several days of car rental.... if it's not stressful. We like trains, buses, and would consider some taxi ($$$ ?). Thank you so much.

Posted by
35 posts

New Itinerary---
Fly from Naples to Catania (3 nights/May 17- 20th)
Siracusa ( 7 nights/May 20-27th) --- go to May festivals in Comiso (21st) & San Georgio (26th)

Ragusa/Modica,Noto). (3-4 nights/May 27-30) (should we stay in Ragusa/ 3-4 nights)
Stay in Taormina 2 nights ....(need to read up a bit to see how it fits in)
Less days in Palermo--- 3-4 nights. (3?)
Trapani- 2-3 nights?(visit Erica)

I have about one week still left---- I can go to an island or I can go somewhere else on the mainland.
Open to suggestions. I am still feeling unfamiliar so I need to read more in order to decide. Is there somewhere any of you would Suggest ? (what island, or what part of the mainland? maybe an awesome beach or medieval village? Have any of you been to where they filmed the Godfather movie? My husband is huge fan and has seen all the series many times, including then making of the Godfather ( documentary done by the producer and Scorcese). (it's so good!)

Posted by
2456 posts

Springtime in Sicily, aren’t you lucky! Happy retirement!
Just a few of my favorite experiences, from years ago:
— From Naples I did this day-long trip by train: early-ish train from Naples to Salerno; wandered the old medieval town of Salerno including the cathedral, then lunch; early afternoon, took a short train ride on to the wonderful Greek temple ruins at Paestum and it’s excellent small museum right by the ruins. Late afternoon light is best. I believe the ruins are open every day, but the museum was closed one day a week, Monday as I remember, may be different now. Was back in Naples for dinner. Actually my plan was to also include a short visit by bus from Salerno to the small ceramics village of Vietri sul Mare, but my long ticket-buying experience at the station in Naples caused me to miss my intended train, so time was too limited.
— One of my favorite and most memorable experiences in Sicily was spending two nights in Erice. Ancient stone hill town, very busy with tourists during the day, but very quiet, misty and mysterious in the late evening and early morning. Great cuisine there, I still savor my Couscous di Pesce and Lamb Chop dinner in Erice, years later.
— From Taormina, our small group hired a taxi for 2 hours up to the ancient stone hill town of Castelmola, up above Taormina. Interesting ancient village, on the way back we stopped at the small Madonna della Rocca church, carved into the rocks, with a long distance view down to the beautiful and famous Greek theater of Taormina.

Posted by
28249 posts

I liked Ortygia a lot, but if you are also spending some nights in one of the Baroque towns to see that area (Ragusa, Moto, Modica, Scicli), a week may be a bit longer than you need in Ortygia.

Palermo is a large city with quite a lot to see. I think 3 nights there would be really short. I enjoyed seeing the varied architecture in the little oratorios (chapels), so I needed more than four nights. I visited Monreale (as near a must-see as exists on the island) and Cefalu while staying in Palermo. Do not attempt to drive in Palermo. It's difficult enough to navigate that city on foot; there's a dearth of traffic signals.

Posted by
8002 posts

Rent and return your car at an airport for easier pickup and return access. Some towns (like Noto) had a parking lot on the outskirts, but we found parking in town after looking a bit. Space might depend on time of day or night, when fewer day trippers are present, or when residents are taking spots in their neighborhood.

One island that’s sounded interesting (maybe not for everybody) is Pantelleria Island, west of the Sicilian mainland. It’s remote, and reportedly grows the best capers in the world.

Posted by
35 posts

Thank you, thank you>. All the feedback has helped me to plan a more intentional trip. Focus: Some nature/views, architecture, culture, food, ability to mix with local residents, No longer thinking of Malta... maybe consider a Sicilian Island. See how many days left of our ONE Month trip. We are a couple (over 60 but feel young enough)....we walk, exercise -- just get more tired than before. Plan to do some hiking (small hikes only), exploring the streets, swim a bit.... Never done a cooking or baking class-- is it really worth the splurge? (I am a retired education, husband from Hospitality business-- both just retired a year ago).

New Plan for 30 day trip------:
Naples -- 4 days
Fly into Catania, 2 days (take Bus to Piazza Armerina & Villa Romana del Casale)? Will we
regret it if we don't do Villa Romana del Casale?
. OR...rent car to do it? (from Catania or
Palermo). I also think I can cut this add do at end in bus or car rental?
Taormina/Mt. Etna (3 nights) (is 3 days too much for touristy town? I have seen
a volcano crater before in CA, Mt. Lassen has one) Is Mt. Etna a must? Go North to M
Siracusa, Nota, Modica May 21 Festa (4)
Ragusa, Scicli, Comiso/May 21 festa, (4). (and maybe Festa di San Giorgio May 26)
Agrigento, Valley of the Temples (2)
Erice, Trapini, Segesta, Mozia (4 )
Palermo (4 days) (unless We add 2 days for Villa Romano de Casal-- here... tour or bus
Cefalu (3 nights chill). (Is there better place to add for island or beach experience?)
Anyone suggest I cut some days back and add an island experience. Maybe add on to Taormina--- go north and stay in hill town north of Taormina/by Messina

****Still not sure about: Segesta/ villa Villa Romana del Casale. (If we don't have car rental it may
be we have to get there from Catania or at the end from Palermo.....)
QUESTION: If we rent a car for 7 days first half of trip for Siracusa thru Ragusa)(pick up in Catania or Siracusa/only drive Automatic).... and again at Palermo airport for a few days? 30 day rental is too much $$$ of budget. Can we all of this on public transportation? At least most of it? Where/when will car be the most helpful?

Posted by
28249 posts

I don't know anything about Comiso, but otherwise I think it's all doable by public transportation, just more slowly. It can be pretty hot standing at outdoor bus stops; that wasn't my favorite part of my trip.

A car would get you around the little Baroque villages outside Siracusa a lot more efficiently than a bus or infrequent train. When you use public transportation, the gaps in the schedules can be inconvenient. I sometimes had to choose between skipping lunch and moving on (maybe after rushing through a town) or being stuck somewhere for hours longer than I needed to see everything. You have a generous amount of time, though, so you won't be feeling as pressed as I was.

You can take a bus to Piazza Armerina from either Catania (closer) or Palermo. If your timing doesn't work to catch the public bus that goes to (or perhaps just near--I don't know know) the Villa Romana, I don't think you'll have a problem getting a taxi, which is what I did. I don't remember what it cost, but it wasn't exorbitant; I bet a one-day car rental would be more expensive these days. Piazza Armerina looked like an attractive town to spend a few hours in, but I didn't have time to do that.

Posted by
8002 posts

Cooking classes: I’m a retired educator and cooking is now my chief hobby. I’ve been interested in good food and recipes for a long time, and a class (or more) while abroad has not been a splurge so much as an investment in learning about new ingredients, preparation equipment, and techniques that I can use after I get home. It’s usually entertaining, too, and you get to eat. Money and time well spent.

You asked whether you’ll regret not going to Villa Romana del Casale. It’s a special place, and I love seeing ancient mosaics. If you’re close enough to go, I’d make the effort. You can go to Madrid and skip the Prado, or avoid the Louvre even though you’re in Paris. But you’ll miss some stunning art. An ancient palace and iconic ancient art at the Villa Romana - worth seeing if you can get there, and if you’re interested in significant historical depictions of life for affluent Romans, and their understanding of wild beasts.

We had a rental car, but Sicily seems to have a more extensive train network than I realized. Maybe that can help you get around, besides buses.

Posted by
35 posts

Thank you all for such helpful information and advice--- We have made some changes and only have 2 more decisions--- Keep Taormina on itinerary Or NOT, and whether to use 1-2 nights to visit Cefalu. (we decided to spend 4 days in Trapani/Erice, and need to decide if to visit Agrigento for day trip from Palermo.... or to take bus or train from Trapani--- to Agrigento & spend a night in Agrigento..(that would mean one less night in Trapani.
Napoli-- fly in (4 nights)....fly to Catania
Taormina (2 nights). OR go to Villa Romana from Catania (spend 1 night in Piazza Amerino)
(If keep Taormina, Can go to Villa Romana de Casale from Palermo.)
Siracusa (6)
Ragusa (4) (There for Festa /our last night there is biggest night of Festa)
Palermo (6) ( Local sights, day trip to Agrigento, 1/2 day Monteale, Casa di Contessa tour)
Trapani/Erice (4). / islands boat tour/salt tour. (is Salt tour a must? ) We did do a salt tour in Baja CA
and it was interesting .. so have done that before. Also already climbed on top of a Volcano
in California (Mt. Lassen... climbed up a crater & walked around it.) Will Mt. Etna feel same?
Palermo (3)---- *Can also go from Trapani on bus/train to Agrigento and spend one night there....
and just do 2 nights in Palermo at the end. Is it