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3 nights in Etruscan north Lazio, outside of Rome (March)

Posted by (Ottawa) on

Hello,

We will be arriving back in Rome on a Thursday evening (17 March). We have a B&B booked in Fiumicino for that night and for the following Monday night, prior to our flight home.

We've already spent quite a bit of time in Rome, so we'll not be heading into the city this time.

We were thinking of maybe renting a car and heading to explore the Etruscan countryside in North Lazio for 3 nights (Fri-Sat-Sun). We'd leave our suitcases behind and just take one carry-on as a week-end bag.

I was maybe thinking of spending 3 nights on/near the coast, somewhere between Tarquinia and Grossetto? Any suggestions as to where we could use as a base - essentially in a triangle between Tarquina, Grosseto and Viterbo? March 19th is also a religious holiday; would there be a Festa di San Giuseppe anywhere near this area on that Sunday?

This would give us a chance to see Ostia Antica, the Etruscan Tombs of Tarquinia, try a terme (near Viterbo or Saturnia?), visit Tuscania, maybe see the castle at Santa Severa... any other suggestions in this area?

I get the sense that North Lazio is well frequented by Romans, but overlooked by international tourists, who tend to be in a rush to get to Tuscany...

Thanks!

Posted by
5327 posts

I can't help with personal experience, but I have been researching for a potential similar trip myself. You'd be venturing a bit into the Maremma region of Tuscany. Google that and you will find several websites and a couple articles that may be of use.
I just ordered two books:
Travel guide to Maremma Tuscany by Elisa Scarton Detti
L'Argentario: Porto S. Stefano, Porto Ercole, Orbtello, Ansedonia, Cosa, Albinia, Capalbio, Lago di Burano, Talamone, Parco Naturale della Maremma by Piero Giubelli
You may not need that much for such a brief trip, but you never know. I'd try Fodor's and the Slow Travel site as well.
Good luck--please share how it goes!

Posted by
3648 posts

On one of our trips, we stayed at an agriturismo* near Pitigliano, a very charming town. The area is filled with Etruscan sites, including the towns of Sorano and Sovana. There is an archaeological park close by and another one at Vulci, at the northwest corner of Lazio. Saturnia is a good place to try a terme. There is a free area outside town (difficult parking) or you can try the Terme di Saturnia in town.

*The name of the agriturismo is Ilune. The owners couldn't be more amiable. They serve a lovely breakfast, some of which is made from their own products. You can get dinner there some nights, which we did. It was one of the best meals we've ever had in Italy.

Posted by
1446 posts

Thank you both for the very helpful advice!

I checked the Ilune - lovely place! But double what I was planning to pay per night for my dates. :-(

Looking into it some more, I am split between renting an apartment in Tarquinia or a B&B just outside Tuscania, for the 3 nights. If we save on the accommodation costs, then that frees up some money to spend at the Terme in Saturnia or the one in Viterbo.

We already have a B&B booked in Fiumicino for the Monday night, before our flight home. This will allow us to return the car the night before our flight, and the B&B's owner will drop us off early the next morning at FCO.

I'm convinced now that North Lazio's Etruscan countryside was the perfect choice for ending this trip on a high note! It really has quite the off-the-beaten-path feel, with a surprising wealth of stuff to see & do... I have the feeling that we'll be wishing that we had more time there. ;-)

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