2 days – Assisi, Perugia or Spello?

Spello is very nice. Perugia is nice. Assisi is nothing short of a powerful experience. Ok, I'm prejudiced! I'm there every year for a 2 week music festival (this will be year 15). There is much to see and do in Assisi that could keep you busy for more than 2 days. First, there is the art and emotional/spiritual experience of the churches: San Francesco, Santa Chiara, Chiesa Nuova, Santa Maria Maggiore, San Rufino, Santa Maria Sopra Minerva, San Damiano, Santa Maria degl' angeli. Then there is the food: Umbrian slow cooking, local produce, gelato, local pastries, regional wine, the best ever olive oil and balsamic vinegar (check out Francesco Mollailoli). The local artists, especially Maurizio Martini and Massimo Cruciani. The historical sites like the Roman Forum, Etruscan ruins, the Rocco, the medieval buildings. Did I mention the views? The great walks? And the wonderful people! So, that's my opening argument for Assisi. :)

If you only have two nights, stay in Assisi and time permitting, pop over to Spello for a few hours. Maybe just a passeggiata and aperitivo. Assisi is beautiful and has plenty to keep you interested in a short stay. We were underwhelmed by Perugia but charmed by Assisi and Spello. We spent 5 nights in each.

My vote is for Assisi. I love that little town.

More on Assisi - told you I was just getting started! You want to be near the Piazza Comune, which is about half way up the town. The ancient temple Santa Maria Sopra Minerva is on this piazza as is the medieval town hall - just climb the steps for views of some great rooms and looks out of the windows. This is the place to be at night - the locals use this as their living room. On a weekend there may be groups of teens, who are on retreat. They will entertain you with their music, singing, and dancing. Sit, have a cool drink (I suggest Campari and orange juice). For a great evening stroll (uphill both ways!): as you face Minerva look to your left. There are 2 roads, one up and one going down. Go up (the one on the right). You'll see parts of Assisi, and views of the valley, not all tourists see. Follow the road around until you come to an ancient Roman gate. Make that U-turn and you're facing the Basilica San Francesco. Walk down until the road T's out at the end of the grassy area. Turn left and head up the street. Keep going and you'll come out on Piazza Comune but this time on the left road. See, uphill both directions. That's our traditional walk every evening during the music festival. Glad to share it!

Excellent advice from Robert on Assisi. I was fortunate enough to spend two weeks there in the spring of 2015 and loved every minute of it. Keep a daytrip to Spello in your back pocket, on the off-chance you don't click with Assisi.

I've also hear a lot of "meh" from friends who've visited Perugia.

ok, it's your own fault! I say often that Assisi is "where I like me." Let me share a couple more places that reaffirm that every year: La Fontanella for lunch. From Piazza Comune take the 'down road' (see my earlier description) to where you see all the pinocchio puppets. Turn left, walk down to the bottom and turn left again. La Fontanella will be on your right almost immediately. Not very well signed. My suggestion, go the day before and tell Franca (you think I've been there a few times?) how many you will be and how much you want to spend (I say 25 euro per person with wine) and what time you'll be back. She gets everything organic and fresh, serves family style in a garden setting with the most relaxing/envigorating view of the valley. We do this every year at least twice - people have to remind us to get to our rehearsals. Feel free to just lounge for a nice long while!

Next, La Lanterna. Look the other way (I really do need to learn street names) from the Piazza (towards the fountain). Take the road up on the far left. You'll see lanterns (Lanterna in Italian) and a few steps going up on the left. Sit outside and enjoy some wonderful food for lunch and/or dinner.

Take the middle road and at about the top there is a small grocery/deli. He actually exports to a place in Conneticut. He makes great sandwiches.

Take the road to the right and just before the Roman gate there is the Hotel Sole on your left (that's my festival's home base). The building goes back about 800 years or so. I highly recommend the food! I've eaten everything on the menu and never was disappointed. These are family recipes. Across the street you'll find pastries, great coffee bar and gelato. So many flavors, so little time!

Echo sentiments of fellow travelers about Assisi. Not sure of your transportation method yet if taxi, car, just outside Assisi in San Vitale one may lunch or dine @ Le Mandrie di San Paolo. Hiking trails from property
to St. Francis 'Carceri'. Late April hopefully has blooms; poppy at the least. Mt. Subasio may be in bloom?

Dear all (and Robert espesh!)

Thanks for all that info! Looks like Assisi is a no brainer!!! Really lookign forward to our trip now!

Al the best

Stephen

Have a wonderful trip! Several of the people who work with me in Assisi each year refer to it as our time 'in paradise.' I hope you will say the same. We also mark our calendars for our return. Our students (many of us are university teachers) see pictures and a count-down calendar in our offices. After these past 14 years I still say my 2 weeks in Assisi is just about my favorite part of my life. Let's see, from right now the plane takes off in 72 days, 8 hours and 42 minutes. But who's counting? I AM!!! Please, let me know how it's going.