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19 days in Puglia, Le Marche, maybe Florence

My husband and I will be in Italy for a month from September 16 to October 15, 2015. We rented an apartment in Trastevere, Rome for the first 8 days and would like to spend the remaining 19 days going north from Puglia to Le Marche and maybe to Florence (the only place we have been before) for the last 3 days before getting to the Rome airport where we fly out on the morning of 10/15.

We are considering starting this 19 days with 2-3 days centered in Lecce and then spending 5-6 days in one beautiful spot (with kitchen) around the Locorotondo/Martina Franco area while we fan out from there for day trips. Then we are imagining heading to Le Marche—maybe a few days in Ascoli Piceno and then, again, centering ourselves in another area of Le Marche for almost a week further north.

We are not people who like to move every day or two. We like to plant ourselves in a well-located spot and experience the environment/people/culture and fan out from there to nearby areas. So this itinerary of 2-3 days in Lecce followed by 5-7 days in one beautiful more rural/hilltown area (it seems that the area around Locorotondo/Martina Franco might be good for this stay?) then 2 or so days in Ascoli Piceno followed by another 5-7 days further north in Le Marche (again rural/hilltowns, etc) feels like a good rhythm for us. Of course, if you dear readers tell us that we should spend more time in the south in/near Lecce or recommend some different plan as we go north, we are still wide open for planning this trip.

General costs: Because we will be funding our trip for a whole month, we hope to find lodging—hotels/agriturismo/masserie that cost $100 or less per night, unless there is something truly magnificent or an area that is more expensive. In this case we will go up to $150. We are spending more than this in Rome but that is expected.

We would love some help and advice! Here are some of our questions:

1) First of all, does this itinerary make sense—are we biting off too much? Are there fabulous places we would be missing by following this so-far very basic plan?

2) How should we get from Rome to Lecce: Flying to Brindisi or Bari and then renting our car for the trip? Renting a car in Rome and driving the long 6+ hour trip? If we did drive, is there a wonderful must-see place to stay along the way that would make the long drive worth it?

3) Can you recommend a hotel in the old center of Lecce? I saw recommendations for 8piuhotel but it is 20 minute walk into town. Is this the best and closest place for our budget?

4) Is late September/first half of October still beach/pool weather in Puglia and Le Marche? Should we be considering lodging with pools and plan trips to the beaches?

5) Can you recommend a wonderful place with kitchen to stay in the Valle D’Itria area near Locorotondo/Martina Franco. A beautiful, clean, aesthetically pleasing spot to hang out for a week or so? Or is there another place in Puglia where we have access to beautiful areas?

6) Can you recommend a place to stay in Ascoli Piceno in the old center of town? How long should we plan on staying in Ascoli? Are there day trips that would warrant a longer than 2-day stay?

7) Where should we park ourselves for 5-7 days of exploring the other parts of Le Marche? There are so many beautiful hill towns and places to walk—we don’t know how to pick one spot to have good access to the beauty in this area. Again, a beautiful, aesthetically pleasing house/masserie/agriturisimo (with kitchen) for this length of time.

8) Recommendation for a good, well-located hotel in Florence (center)?

9) Good place to stay very near the airport in Rome to fly out in the morning?

We so appreciate any help you can provide. Thank you ahead of time!

Posted by
3594 posts

In April, we stayed at Il Cortile delle Esperidi, about a 5 minute walk outside the historic center of Lecce. Our room had a fully equipped kitchen and dining area on one level, with the bedroom and bath on another. We had a car, so parking was a must. Il Cortile has an underground garage. The owners are the most hospitable I've ever met. They serve a delicious breakfast with lots of home-made choices. I don't remember the price, but I do remember that it was surprisingly reasonable - - less than 100 euros? Otranto is easily visited from Lecce. It has a duomo with a remarkable medieval mosaic floor. Taranto and Matera should also be on your itinerary, either from Lecce or from your base in the Valle d'Itria. We also liked Ostuni in that area.
To me, no town in Le Marche compares with Urbino. I'm sure there must be many lodgings in the vicinity that would meet your criteria. I'd look on booking.com and tripadvisor for possibilities. Though not in Le Marche, Gubbio is an easy daytrip from Urbino. If you like caves, the Grotte di Frasassi are pretty spectacular. There are guided tours, some in English. I think I remember that we were able to find out ahead when those took place and timed our arrival accordingly.
If flight prices are at all reasonable, I'd fly rather than drive 6+ hours. First of all, it will be exhausting. Secondly, gas is not free; and in Italy, it's not cheap. Thirdly, you'll lose a whole day. With two airport possibilites, I should think you'll be able to find a flight.

Posted by
4 posts

Thank you so much, Rosalyn, for all your suggestions. I truly appreciate the time you took to reply. I just reserved at Cortille delle Esperidi in Lecce so that takes care of one piece of this journey! How long were you in Puglia and were there other lodging recommendations in Puglia or Le Marche?

Looking forward to other responses to this post
Heidi

Posted by
11613 posts

I love your plan. Ostuni might be a place to consider as a base in Puglia for a week.

  1. I am going to recommend some time in Matera, in Basilicata. I stay at a small B&B run by two sisters, it's a few steps from the Main Street from which you can get to the sassi. Great breakfast brought in every morning, well below your budget. There are some little-known historic treasures nearby. PM me for more info if you are interested. A car is not essential but would be convenient to get to other areas.

  2. You could fly to Bari, or take a high-speed train from Roma. Puglia is not well-connected by buses or trains, a car would be a good idea if you have a base city and then want to visit other places. My friends and I visited one or two places a day with a car. If you drive from Roma, route yourselves through Castel del Monte, the castle is intriguing and there is a great restaurant a few kilometers away, Madre Terra.

Skipping to other questions:

  1. I like Hotel Bigallo, around the corner from the Baptistery. Might be a few euro above your €100 budget, but not much. Hotel Paris near Santa Maria Novella is also good.

  2. After a great trip, I would spend the last night in Roma and take a taxi to the airport.

Posted by
2125 posts

We did a similar trip in October 2012. Here are some ideas to consider.

1) Take a fast train from Rome to Bari (about 4 hours) and then immediately train or bus to Matera. Stay there 2 nights (I loved staying in a cave hotel, Locanda di San Martino, with a wonderful underground thermal spa). Matera is one of the more interesting places you will ever see.

2) Rent a car when you leave Matera, and drive to a masseria in the Val d'Itria for 5-6 days. We spent 6 days at the beautiful Masseria Montenapoleone near Pezze di Greco. It had a pool, and the weather was still warm enough Oct. 17-23 for us to use it. They also have a wonderful, free communal kitchen for guests to use, stocked with olive oil and other necessities, plus fresh fruit from their orchard. Wonderful breakfasts. We absolutely loved staying here too! From here we drove to Alberobello, Ostuni, Locorotundo and also enjoyed visiting Torre Canne, a small coastal town. There are many masserias in the Val d'Itria, and I highly recommend you stay in one.

3) We then drove to Brindisi and turned in our rental car, and took a train (I think they're hourly) to Lecce. We had heard that Lecce is tricky to drive in so we opted not to. We stayed in the city center, for 6 days, which was much too long for us. Aside from one day looking at the baroque churches (more than 100!) we took lots of day trips: Otranto, which was just OK -- very quiet in October; Gallipoli, which we loved ... beautiful seaside town ... you can eat at a restaurant right beside the port where the fishermen come in. Amazing. A highlight of Lecce for us was a private winery tour (using a company called Experience Path). We visited two wineries near Lecce, with tastings of amazing wines and olive oil, along with delicious snacks. A fun day. Our problem with Lecce was that it pretty much shuts down between 2 pm and 6 pm -- it's almost like a ghost town. All shops, offices, restaurants -- everything. Restaurants don't reopen until 8. If you get hungry between 2 and 8 and don't have snacks in your room, you are out of luck.

4) Now you'd have to backtrack a little, driving or taking the train up the coast. I'd recommend stopping in Trani for 3 days. It's another pretty little harbor town with great restaurants. We stayed at Albergo Lucy. From Trani you can visit Castel de Monte (free admittance if you're over 65, so bring your passports); Dolmen La Chianca, a prehistoric cemetery with a burial chamber that looks like Stonehenge (the best known bronze age monument in Italy); and the salt plains at Margherita di Savoia.

5) Next would be Ascoli Piceno. We unfortunately didn't get there so I can't help. But we did have a great 4 days just up the coast, at Senigallia. This is a lovely Italian town that just happens to be located on a beach. It has two Michelin-starred restaurants, and many other more affordable places to eat absolutely delicious food. We stayed at Hotel Palace, just across from the beach and walking distance to downtown, where there's a daily market, an old fort, a castle. It has a wonderful cafe (La Meridiana) where, on a rainy day, you can get fabulous hot chocolate with a bowl of whipped cream. From Senigallia, you can visit Corinaldo, a lovely little hill town. And the Caves of Frasassi, which someone else mentioned. And if the weather is nice, you of course can swim or just walk along the miles of sandy beach. There was a bar with tables on the beach, where we would get a glass of wine (with free snacks) and sit with our toes in the sand, watching the beautiful Adriatic after a busy day. Senigallia is about 3 hours by train from Florence.

6) When you get back to Rome, if you opt to stay near the airport (FCO), we stayed at a lovely place last spring called Hotel Tiber. They have an airport shuttle, and a beautiful location along the river with good restaurants to walk to. Highly recommended.

Have fun!

Posted by
4 posts

I am just seeing this last reply. Thank you so much. So appreciate all the time you have taken to give so much information.

We are leaving in two weeks (Rome-->Le Marche-->Puglia-->flying out of Rome) have a few questions left:
We are deciding between three hotels in Ascoli Piceno: Albergo Sant'Emidio, Hotel & Residenzia 100 Torri, and Palazzo dei Merchant. Does anyone have any experience/recommendations for any of these?

We are currently planning 4 nights in Lecce as a base for this heel area of Puglia. Now we are wondering if we should break it up with an overnight in Matera vs. just going there for the day. Any thoughts?

Thanks so much for any help!
Heidi

Posted by
1994 posts

Re pool weather, when I was in the Marche in the 2nd wk of October, it was pleasant during the day (~70) and cold at night (at least for a weather wimp from CA). I felt no compulsion to swim, but if I did, I certainly would want a heated pool (relatively rare, I believe).

Posted by
11613 posts

Overnight in Matera, it is lovely at night, and everyone is out walking.

Posted by
4 posts

Thank you, Zoe. Do you have any recommendations for a place to overnight in Matera?

Posted by
11613 posts

I always try to stay at a small B&B in Matera, just a few steps from the main road in the old town and the roads that go down to the Sassi. I will PM you with the name.

Posted by
4 posts

I will be so interested to hear your reports of where you stay in Ascoli. My family lives there. On our first visit, 2 years ago, we stayed outside of town at an agriturismo. While lovely, on my return visit next year I will be staying in the historic center. I was considering the Albergo Piceno. I will be so interested in knowing which hotel you chose and your experience. Be sure to visit Cafe Melletti. Buon viaggio!

Posted by
3 posts

My recommendation for Ascoli Piceno is Antico Borgo Piceno,
here's the review I posted at the time:

I stayed here for three nights at the beginning of October. Ascoli Piceno is a great town to stay in and I can't imagine a better place to stay than this B&B. I had a large room with huge bathroom and a terrace overlooking the old town right across the bridge.
The staff were very nice, breakfast was excellent, Wifi was strong, parking could be indoor or nearby outdoor depending on availability. They also did my laundry (a week's worth of clothes) for a small charge.
One quick note, they do not accept credit cards, no big deal but just something to be aware of beforehand.

I absolutely loved this town, try the meat stuffed olives, they're everywhere, have a great trip!