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13 days in Northern Italy - which direction? train or car or both? Best way to find places to stay?

I'm traveling with my 22 year old daughter for 14 nights in Northern Italy, arriving Friday the 23rd and leaving Friday the 6th - flying in and out of Milan.

Our rough itinerary is:
Milan for 2 nights;
Lake Como area (stay: Verenna) for 2-3 nights;
Dolomites area (stay: Castelrotto or Bolzano) for 3 nights;
Visit Parma to experience the cheese and prosciutto;
Cinque Terre area 3-4 nights; (Vernazza?)
Visit or stay possibly Genoa and/or Portofino?;
Stay near airport in Milan for the final night.

We want to experience the local food, wine, and people - we love walking cities, hiking/nature, art, and learning about the history and culture.
Questions:
Is this a reasonable itinerary?
Is it better to go "clockwise" or "counterclockwise"

We are used to driving and have done so in Europe - so we know the driving can be a bit crazy there . .
Should we only travel on trains or should we rent a car for certain specific stretches or the whole thing?

How does it change the experience if we only do trains?
Would we lose the flexibility of stopping and exploring a local town or sight along the way if we only do trains?
If we are on trains, how do we do a little wine tasting on the "wine roads"?
If we drive, how do we do some wine tasting so we are not drinking and driving?
We are going to look for places to stay from Rick's Book. Our budget is Moderate to Pricier ($80 to $170) with the occasional Splurge over $170.00 If we can't get a room in one of Ricks's recommendations, where else do we look? is TripAdvisor or AirBnB a reliable place to look?
For Cinque Terra - can we "home base" in Vernazza and still explore all the small towns from there over 3-4 days?
Do we have time / should we try to fit in Portofino and/or Genoa? (we've heard it has the best food in the country)
Is Parma a stop within a day, or should we plan to spend the night near there for a whole day in town?
Is there any other place that is spectacular that is not far from our route that we are overlooking we should squeeze in?

Posted by
418 posts

Portofino is expensive so you would need to save your "splurge " for it or stay in a nearby town such as Rapallo or Santa Maria Ligure and take a train or ferry to Portofino. Arriving by ferry in Portofino is memorable.

Posted by
6561 posts

Welcome to the forum!

When is this trip? Which month and year?
I ask because Lodging in CT and Varenna is already well booked up for this season

It’s a decent itinerary that can be done easily by train.

Drinking and driving?
You don’t
Or you take turns being designated driver

Posted by
15441 posts

You don’t need a car for the places you are visiting. Actually a car would be a hindrance everywhere except for the Dolomites.
Bolzano is not on the Dolomites, it is down in a the valley which in summer turns into a scorching inferno. Consider Ortisei or Castelrotto, both easily reached by bus from Bolzano.
Genoa is, in my opinion, not so pretty. It’s an industrial port city. If you want to stay nearby to visit it, and also to visit Portofino, consider Camogli. Portofino is way too overpriced and full of pretentious rich people and the paparazzi who follow them. I’ve always visited it for a very short time from somewhere else. It’s pretty with fancy super yachts but nothing more.

Posted by
6006 posts

You need to start working on accommodations quickly. Castelrotto is more in the mountains, Bolzano is more the foothills. For CT, really take a look at the towns. We stayed in Manarola because it was quieter and we found an amazing accommodation with views of the village and the ocean. Vernazza was very crowded. Corniglia is lovely but it is a steep climb to get up to it and the train is down, more at ocean level.

You can do most of the trip via train. I will be in the Dolomites this fall, and I am picking up a car in Bolzano to use in the mountains. However, even in the Dolomites there is public transportation (buses) available.