We will be staying in Vernazza in July with adult children and two teenage grandsons. We plan to eat one night at Il Pirata but would like to eat one evening by the water. I've read conflicting recommendations about the restaurants harborside and above the harbor. Any recommendations?
We loved our al fresco lunch at Belforte - killer views and good seafood (fresh anchovies), with local white wine. Caveat, this was in 2018, but current reviews online seem similar. Yes, definitely touristy, and the food is good but not perhaps gourmet quality. However, the view cannot be beat. For truly gourmet food, take the train to Montorosso.
We were in Vernazza 10 days ago and had three great breakfasts at Il Pirata. Had great conversations with the twins. Massimo told me that they are no longer open for dinner - just breakfast and lunch. It was fun getting a picture of the twins and telling them that we also have a picture of them from 19 years ago.