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Ristorante al Castello in Vernazza - AVOID

We made a reservation for this restaurant in person a day in advance based on the recommendation in Rick Steves' 2019 Italy Guide, in part because of the view, as it is high up above the harbor in Vernazza. We should have been suspicious because there weren't many people there at the time (at 7:45 at night).

We did in fact have a good view BUT - the food and service were TERRIBLE. We ordered the stuffed anchovies for appetizer (this is supposed to be a hot dish) - waiter brought us the wrong dish - the anchovies in lemon, which is a cold dish. When he finally came back around, we informed him and he took it away, returning with the correct dish ... which was stone cold and inedible - a cold, fried fritter ball with an anchovy stuck to the underside of it, that clearly had been cooked long before and had sat out, probably being served to multiple other people by mistake and being sent back, as we later discovered had been the case with multiple other diners (see below). We tried to eat it, but ended up leaving it largely untouched. We didn't say anything, and the waiter didn't ask. Waiter then brought the wrong main dish, flipped confusedly through a tattered pad of papers, and rushed off again, probably to serve it mistakenly to another hapless table (again, see below). He then brought the correct main - seafood risotto for two - which was lukewarm at best, and was filled with grit, broken mussel shells, and beard from the mussels mixed with the risotto. We picked at it for awhile, but pretty much gave up eventually. I should point out that I had had seafood/mussels with spaghetti twice previously this trip, with no such problems.
When we asked for the bill, the waiter gave us a little piece of paper from his notepad with some scribbles on it and said that we "pay Mama up front." Okay .... so there is this throng of people lined up waiting to see Mama, who is sitting at a table adding each group's bill up by hand. Nobody is looking very happy, and I notice that everyone has cash in their hand, or groups are frantically pooling their money - turns out that Mama doesn't accept credit cards. One person said that they had noticed it stated somewhere in small print on the menu, but we (and others) had not noticed it - it was not pointed out to us, nor was it advertised anywhere as you enter the restaurant (and, importantly, NOT noted in Rick Steves' guidebook). In speaking with several groups in line, everyone seemed to have the same experience of being served the wrong order multiple times. One group ended up eating what they were served, thinking it wasn't right, but not really knowing for sure, and were charged for it anyway.
So, not having enough cash to cover the bill, I had to leave my wife there, run all the way down to get back to our room to get cash, then run the 500 million steps to get back up there again. I was not happy. I should point out also that we had been in Italy for 2 weeks prior to this, and had had only wonderful experiences wherever we had eaten. This was also the most expensive meal we had paid for, by a good margin.
So the take home message is:
A) THEY DON'T TAKE CREDIT CARDS
and
B) "A" SHOULD BE IRRELEVANT BECAUSE I WOULD NOT EAT THERE ANYWAY., UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE.

Posted by
11184 posts

What an awful experience! We enjoyed excellent stuffed anchovies at a place right in town.
I hope this recommendation is removed the guide book ASAP.

Posted by
16359 posts

That sounds like a terrible experience. It definitely should be removed from the RS guide.

It gets pretty uniformly bad reviews for both food and service on TripAdvisor and Yelp. We have found those sites pretty reliable for sorting out restaurants, once one has learned to filter out the fake reviews.

https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g187822-d1111519-Reviews-Al_Castello-Vernazza_Cinque_Terre_Italian_Riviera_Liguria.html

https://www.yelp.com/biz/bar-al-castello-vernazza

Posted by
5656 posts

I think you should let the RS office know about your experience. My recollection is there is a method for commenting on the guides. I've always been happy with RS recs, but I always looked at multiple sources, so maybe that filters out some of Rick's poor choices. Lola, how do you discern fake reviews?

Posted by
6308 posts

Thanks, jules m. I was wondering the same thing.

Posted by
7320 posts

Wow, sad you had such an awful experience in such a beautiful location!

We just read through several of the TripAdvisor reviews which at least were entertaining, especially the ones that were so overwhelmingly fake! Hard to take a fake review seriously from a “Canadian” who places the dollar sign after the number as the Euro sign is placed, and also recommends that people leave a 15% tip and extra tip to the staff!

Posted by
337 posts

Firstly, I'm sorry you had a bad eating experience, I would have just stopped at the antipasti, and cut my losses.
Regarding "A they don't take credit cards", I can't agree this should be a negative. At home I mostly use debit cards however,
its really no secret that Italy still is very much a cash society and you should not expect "credit card friendly businesses" everywhere you go. Taking enough cash is your own insurance and businesses having visa or master card services advertise this with their logos plastered around. If not its going to cash should be an expectation, not a surprise. That said the experience warrants an email to RS guides. regards