I’d heard such mixed reviews about Belfast that I wasn’t sure what to expect, but we loved the city and would definitely return!
We arrived by train late afternoon went straight from the station to the Black Cab tour we’d prearranged. Rick’s book recommends the company that uses both Catholic and Protestant drivers, but they only have tours at set times and none were late enough for our 4:00 arrival. Based on some good reviews in the Forum, we had selected Paddy Campbells Black Cab Tour. We were really glad we’d recently watched Say Nothing and Belfast, as we had a little bit of an understanding of how horrific things were during The Troubles. Our guide Sean was excellent. While not completely impartial he tried to talk about both sides a bit. He was 5 years old when his grandmother’s house was fire bombed, and he had to walk through armed checkpoints every day on his way to school. His first hand stories were really haunting. I would recommend him if you take the tour.
We started the next morning with a visit to St George’s Market, which was fun. I was sorry I’d eaten a big breakfast because there were so many delicious looking pastries and sweets. Next we met guide Petra Herrmann for a guided walking tour. She was excellent and I think part of the reason we enjoyed Belfast so much is because she showed us things hidden in plain sight, including the 4 places each claiming to be Belfast’s oldest pub, and some lovely hidden streets and street art. We walked from central Belfast all the way through the Titanic Quarter. Petra up is knowledgeable and has a great sense of humor. I’d definitely recommend her as a guide.
In the afternoon we visited the Titanic Museum (fortunately no cruise ships in town today so not crowded). We had a great dinner at the Ginger Bistro and strolled through the Botanical Gardens on our way back to our hotel in Queens Quarter.
The next day we had a fantastic private tour of the Giants Causeway, Antrim Coast, and Antrim Glens with driver/guide John Robbin (Craicntour). He picked us up in Belfast and really tailored the day to our interests. He shared a lot of history and stories as we drove, and we enjoyed talking with him as well. We walked the rim trail at the Causeway, which was breathtaking. Despite all the tour buses at the Causeway itself, the trail was not at all crowded and a feast for the senses, with the smells of the sea and all the flowers in bloom, the sounds of the crashing waves and the birds, and the beautiful beautiful cliffs and beaches. Later we continued along the coast with John pointing out Game of Thrones sites and stopping at more scenic areas. Then he drove us down the winding roads of the Glens (his ancestral home) which most tours skip altogether. We saw beautiful waterfalls, Forrest, valleys, tiny seaside villages, fairy trees, and more. Our day with John was a highlight of our trip. If you’re considering a car and driver for the Antrim Coast, Craicntour is an excellent choice!
We stayed at at The Harrison in Queens Quarter. I really enjoyed starting and ending each day in this quieter neighborhood, and the college buildings and gardens are beautiful. Loved the hotel, helpful staff, and excellent breakfasts, but if you stay there choose one of their larger rooms. We stayed in the Van Morrison room, and it was crowded for two —probably would have been fine for a solo traveler.
My final Belfast recommendation is Holohans restaurant in Queens Quarter. Excellent Irish cuisine and really lovely servers and staff.