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Suggestions on Ireland Itinerary

Hello! We are a group of 6-8 co-ed adults (1 couple, others are singles) traveling through South and West Ireland by car. We will not make it to Northern Island on this trip. We like pubs, live music, picturesque towns, architecture, natural scenery and monuments and off the beaten path stops. We wanted to stay in one place for 2 nights each but then we are backtracking so I laid out a trip that seemed more efficient. This is our itinerary so far. Are there other suggestions on where we should stay besides these towns or stops we must see?

8/23, Arrive Dublin 7am, tour the city, including Gaol, Trinity College, Guinness
8/24 Wild Wicklow tour, night in Dublin
8/25 Kilkinney, Rock of Cashel, Cahir, night in/near Cork
8/26 Blarney Castle, Lismore, Cobh, night in Kinsale
8/27 Ring of Kerry, ferry to Skellig Michael (optional), night in Killarney
8/28 Killarney National Park, Dingle peninsula, night in Dingle
8/29, Drive from Dingle to Doolin- stop in Adare, Limerick- King John’s Castle, Bunratty Castle and Lahinch, night in Doolin
8/30 Cliffs of Moyer, Lisdoonvarna, Burren National Park, night in Galway
8/31 Roundstone, Clifden, Connemara National Park, Kylemore Abbey, night in Clifden
9/1 day/night in Galway (optional Aran Islands day trip)
9/2 Drive back to Dublin via Athlone- Sean’s Pub, Offaly- Castle Birr, night in Dublin
9/3 Fly out of Dublin

Thanks, Steph

Posted by
3122 posts

You've clearly done a lot of research and listed all the popular things to see and do. But, you've got almost all one-night stays. As Rick Steves always advises, this will make you feel jetlagged throughout your trip because you always sleep better in a room that's halfway familiar, as it will be on the second night of a stay.

Practical question: have you figured out what kind of vehicle you'll rent that will accommodate your entire party including luggage? Would you be better off with two cars?

Posted by
7 posts

Thanks. Yes, we will have 2 cars since I'm expecting they will be small and we have to accommodate us and luggage. I had the same concern with staying in one place each night. I just didn't want to back track. Another option for overnights: 2 nights Dublin, 2 nights Cork OR Kinsale, 2 nights Dingle, 1 night Doolin OR somewhere on the way to Doolin, 3 nights in Galway area. I just hope that will give us close enough access to all the sightseeing we have planned. We are open to staying in smaller towns for some nights and maybe even staying in a castle or farm. And I'm open to suggestions between Dingle and Doolin for a night. I've heard great things about Dingle but not Doolin for an overnight stay.

Posted by
459 posts

we actually had a good couple of nights in Doolin. We were lucky enough to be there on an evening when the Doolin Music House was having a get together and we had a really fun time there for stories and traditional music. Your group of eight would be a good fit as they take on only about 15 or so for the evening. You are there early in the evening so you can hit the Doolin pubs for dinner and more music and good fun. We did the boat ride out to see the cliffs from the sea and it ws pretty cool. We also drove up the road aways from our B&B, Daly's B&B great spot, and saw a sheepdog demo and did a walk around at the Burren. So, there are definitely two nights at least worth of sights and fun in the Doolin area if you decide to group together a couple of nights rather than moving around as much. We spent 4 nights in Dingle and loved it, ours was a late April early May visit. Ring of Kerry was great, you might considering hiring Paul Brown in Kenmare for your RofK tour, he has a van that would fit 8 people and you could all be together and your drivers could get a rest from driving and could enjoy the scenery. Paul was awesome, you might give it some thought. www.kenmaretaxitours.com We stayed in Kenmare for the RoK and surrounding area.

Posted by
15589 posts

Blarney Castle was about the most boring place I visited. Without the blarney stone, I doubt more than a couple out of every 100 of its visitors would get there. It's a gimmick. I wish I'd had more than a couple hours in Cobh (the museum is very worthwhile).

One thing to consider is that weather can really impact your itinerary. If it's sunny, the scenery is wonderful, if not, not.

I didn't tour Guinness in Dublin (I don't like Guinness) but I've seen some folks report that it's not a very interesting experience. Also, will you be up to a lot of sightseeing after a red-eye flight and in a jetlagged haze? I did take the Jameson tour in Midleton and thought it was very interesting. (I like whisky :-).

Posted by
7 posts

Great suggestions! Jarrardd, sounds like Dingle for 2 nights would be a great choice and I’ll check the Doolin Music House. Good idea to hire a driver for ROK- I’ll contact Paul Brown. And we did hear that Kenmare was a better town to stay than Killarney so we will probably end up in Kenmare in the ROK area for 2 nights.

Chani, thanks for letting me know about Blarney. Do you know if Bunratty Castle is just as touristy? We are beer drinkers, especially craft beer, so we have to stop at the Guinness Storehouse and any craft breweries along the way. We will fit in a whiskey tasting at Midleton, too. And, I'll add more time in Cobh.

Any suggestions on farms? I have info on Rathbaun and Kissane and Killarney Sheep Farms. Or suggestions on non-touristy, off the beaten track “must-sees”? Thanks!!

Posted by
3227 posts

You will never get to Kilmainham Gaol, Trinity/Kells, and Guiness Brewery in one day—-especially on your day of arrival, even if you buy tickets in advance, which I do recommend doing. You could do the Gaol and Guinness in one day and even walk from one to the other, as we did.
My suggestion, scale things back a bit!!! No need to rush, rush! And as the other poster mentioned, weather can have an impact.
Doesn’t get its due, but we found King John’s castle in Limerick very well done and interesting!
Bunratty castle is touristy! However, we enjoyed it, since we are tourists!

I don’t know where else you have traveled in the world, but in my experience, Ireland is not overrun with tourists. The worst place was Cliffs Of Moher, lots of tour busses there!

Posted by
7 posts

Thanks Diveloonie, looks like we need to spend a full 2 days in Dublin to experience what we want or do less. We are touristy, too! You are the 2nd person who has mentioned King John's Castle so that might go on the list, and take off Bunratty and Blarney. We have all day to get from Galway to Dublin, so it looks like we can make a stop at either Trim Castle OR Castle Birr. Any preference to these castles? We will also get to Ashford Castle while staying in Galway. Thanks!

Posted by
359 posts

Some scattered thoughts.

While in Dublin definitely make sure you DO do the Wicklow Tour including Glendalough. One of Ireland's highlights, not to be missed. Glendalough is magical .... take your time there......for us it was beautiful and haunting.

Definitely skip Blarney. Rick S. is very polite about it ......but it plays to the ridiculous hyper leprechauny tourist trap Ireland. All Irish folks I've spoke too just roll their eyes about it. Bunratty is very touristy but not in the same way. It has legitimate historical interest. I'd look into it online more and see if it's something you might enjoy as it is "user friendly". It's not my favorite cup of tea but has merit.

You can drive the Ring of Kerry in a day but you will miss SO much. The castle and Abbey ruins, ring forts, small towns and truly breathtaking scenery are so amazing. Plus there is no way to adequately see the ROK and do a Skellig Michael cruise in one day - not enough time.. The Skellig Ring is a short wonderful loop that is so worth it....insane views....and NO tour buses. Just outside Portmagee are the Cliffs Of Kerry which are incredible and far superior to the gorgeous but tourist overrun Cliffs of Moher. If you picture in your mind from a book or movie wild Ireland and Cliffs with staggeringly beautiful views where you can sit without many around you and feel that wild magical part of Ireland the Cliffs of Kerry are it. If you want gorgeous views but load after load of tour buses, a group of souvenir shops and jostling crowds - that's Moher.

One other thing I'd urge. Avoid one night stays like the plague. They are trip killers. Obviously it can be done successfully but it eats time, creates a hectic pace,and usually causes you to miss things. Also dont try to do everything. Limit your daily goals to one maybe two definite stops. If you happen to have time for more great...but setting up that frantic pace,and expectations usually eliminates the little moments that make a trip. The time to pause and interact with the wonderful Irish people....Just lingering and exploring leads to so many amazing moments. ..... for us getting invited for to a home for scones, feeding horses in the Glen near Ballinskellig, talking to a fisherman in Portmagee, getting invited to an awesome local craft fair followed by a small town gathering with trad music and dancing, or being in a small little pub and watching a rugby match with 3 locals. Those and many more FAR FAR better than any tourist sight.....none of which could have happened if we were racing to the next itinerary list thing. Less is way more. If you really want to experience Ireland cut out as many destinations as possible.....centralize your stops and linger and explore.....there's magic everywhere in Ireland if you look and most aren't on must see tourist lists. 3-4 nights on the ROK easily beats 2 on the ROK and 2 In Dingle......or vice versa. You can't see it all so why try. Instead really see a few spots in fantastic lingering depth.

Posted by
15589 posts

Hi Steph,

I didn't visit Bunratty. Ashford is a luxury hotel with very pretty manicured lawns and uninspired gardens and a small lake (artificial?). Worth seeing though is the nearby Cong Abbey (ruins) with a short, beautiful walk to the Cong River to see the Monk's Fishing House.

I don't know if it's daily or not, but on the day I was in Cobh (Friday) there was a farmer's market (lots of tastings), great place to pick up tasty delicacies. I got great hot smoked salmon there and some excellent home-made jams (not to eat together!!).

I enjoyed the guided tour of Kilkenny Castle. Speaking of Kilkenny:

There once were two cats of Kilkenny,
Each thought there was one cat too many,
So the fought and they fit,
And they scratched and they fit,
Till, excepting their nails
And the tips of their tails,
Instead of two cats, there weren't any.

Posted by
15589 posts

I didn't think it was worth the long wait to get a glimpse of one page of the Book of Kells (in dim lighting under glass). On the other hand, I went back to the National Archaeology Museum for a second visit.

Pubs are an excellent option for lunches. They make a fresh cauldron of thick vegetable soup every morning and serve it with fresh-baked Irish dark soda bread and butter for about €5. That plus a pint and you're set until dinner (unlike the Europeans, the Irish eat early).

Posted by
138 posts

We did one night stops (other than Dublin) on our last visit and I wish we hadn't. We were always rushing to get to our next B&B. That being said ... Since you're beer drinkers, don't miss Smithwick's in Kilkenny. They have a nice tour that ends with a sample! Also, Rock of Cashel and Cahir Castle are definitely worth the stop! AND, I have been to Blarney Castle twice to kiss the Blarney Stone. I can't imagine why people say not to stop there. It's no more touristy than most other sites in Ireland and I can't imagine saying I went to Ireland and didn't kiss the Blarney Stone. Bunratty Castle has a Medieval Banquet that's a lot of fun. And, check out the Hawk Walks if you want to do something different. We did the one at the Dromoland Castle School of Falconry and had a great time! There is just so much to see and do! Have a great time!

Posted by
359 posts

Hi Joyce - if you liked the Blarney Stone - great. To each their own. No harm in it. To quote Rick Steves though who places it in his ten tourist traps of Europe:

"Blarney Stone (Ireland): Busloads line up to kiss a stone on the top of a castle rampart and get “the gift of gab.” The best thing about this lame sight is watching a cranky man lower lemming-like tourists over the edge, belly up and head back, to kiss the stone while an automated camera snaps a photo — which will be available for purchase back at the parking lot. After a day of tour groups mindlessly climbing up here to perform this ritual, the stone is slathered with spit and lipstick."

For me it's like in the middle of us civil war battlefields and gorgeous views of Appalachian mountains finding an old farmhouse and telling folks if you wait in long lines, pay money and climb to the roof and dance like a chicken you'll get enhanced ESP. Nothing to do with real history or real culture in any way.....just a contrived thing to do.

It's harmless fun and if you enjoy it - great - it's just there are a thousand other better things to do that are really connected to Ireland's history, culture and scenery. To each their own - in this TOTALLY agree with Rick Steves.

Posted by
7 posts

Thank you all! Our group is meeting on Tuesday to finalize the itinerary so we can book accommodations. I will change the itinerary to spend more time in a few places and take in the local culture. We can't do everything but I don't know if/when I will get back so I want to hit the "Must-sees" on this trip. And, I’m getting great recommendations! Ewewoolknit, thanks for the recommendation on Cliffs of Kerry! I hadn't heard of those cliffs and that sounds perfect. Chani, Cong Abbey sounds fantastic and so does the pub lunches. Love the poem. Joyce, we will definitely get to Rock of Cashel and Cahir Castle. And, I hadn’t heard of Hawk Walks so I will do my research on those. Thanks, again!