This will be our 2nd trip to Ireland this October. Our first trip was a 9-10 day whirlwind with little time to do any extensive outdoor hiking (amazing though) a few years ago in October. This time we're concentrating on Southwest Ireland for 8 days since we missed it the first time around. First night in Kinsale, last night near Shannon airport, leaving 6 nights likely between Kenmare and Dingle. We want to spend time walking/hiking, with views, ancient ruins, etc. Has anyone done any extensive walking in these areas? Any multi day walking? Any full day hikes? I've found info online, but was looking for first hand opinions/recommendations, etc. Killarney National Park, Beara Way, Dingle Way, Kerry Way and others ?
Posted by
Yorkshire
1279 posts
I've hiked both the Dingle Way and the Kerry Way, albeit some years ago now. Both are wonderful, and while I would have expected things to have changed a little over the years, I don't think it would be much and if I had to choose one above the other I'd go with the Dingle Way. We were lucky with the weather (mostly) and it's a varied walk. I seem to to remember a lot of road walking on the Dingle Way, but they were quiet, mostly traffic free roads. We booked our accommodation from lists we found on the guides to the Way - some were sensational, some less so. All were experiences I wouldn't have missed for the world.
I also recall that there were a fair number of swish restaurants in the most unlikely of remote places, but getting a 'pie and a pint' was more difficult than getting the full four course blow out. And oddly, on a fair number of occasions, no matter what time we arrived at our B&B the rooms were never quite ready but the B&B owned the next door bar and would we like a drink while we were waiting? The quest for the perfect pint of Guinness ensued early each day. (Winner - the bar at Camp. We double checked.).
I hope wherever you choose to walk, you'll have a grand time. If you have half as good a time as we had on both the the Dingle and Kerry Ways, you'll have a wonderful time.
Ian
Posted by
Colorado Springs
2822 posts
Either the Dingle Way or the Kerry Way would be good choices - lots of beautiful, scenic sections of varying lengths and degrees of difficulty to satisfy your hiking urges.
We especially enjoyed the hikes out on the Beara peninsula, both the well-signed tracks along the Beara Way and others that we just happened upon while staying in the area for a couple of weeks a few years ago.
One favorite discovery was Cummeengeera - the ruins of a famine village that was abandoned in around 1870 but which now serves as a little time capsule of what Irish life was like in a remote mountain valley back in the 1840's. It's difficult to find - at the end of an unsealed farm track in the middle of the peninsula - but we enjoyed it so much that we went there twice to spend the day exploring the valley and the ruins of the old settlement, which included stone cottages, fences along a pretty stream, and an old cave that's famous in local lore as the hideout of one of the village inhabitants who was eventually caught by the authorities and hung for murder. There are lots of boggy places as you proceed up and over the hill that eventually descends into the pretty little valley, so waterproof boots are a necessity, and would be a good idea to pack a Goretex outer layer at any time...especially in October.
Dursey Island was another favorite - accessed via a small cable car (capacity: 3 people and a cow) at the end of the peninsula. It too is a little time capsule of a settlement that was hard hit by the famine years.
Posted by
Waterville, Ireland
409 posts
I live in Waterville, and am members of various walking clubs around the area, and stay in Killarney twice a month for Toastmasters, so have hiked there, often. I've done walking festivals in Sneem, Mayo, Dingle and more.... I can give you lots of tips.
Most important tip: see if you can find Xploreit maps - each county has a different map. There pricey (15 euros now) but worth it. They are cycling maps, but have walking trails. I find them better than the OPW walking maps because these are colored and easier to distinguish roads, paths, elevations. Let me know if you can't find them and i'll mail you one.
Most places in hiking areas (yeah, they call it walking. trust me, it's hiking!) have drying rooms for your wet clothes. ASK when you stay somewhere, if they have such a room. It's often not obvious.
There are tour companies that will bring your bag from place to place and arrange the B&B. I can recommend someone. But I personally like to "wing it" so i'm not pressured to get from point A to point B.
I just posted some photos of an amazing walk out of Cahersiveen called Cnoc na d'Tobar on my website. Check it out for a non-well promoted walk that is spectacular! todayinireland.com / cnocpilgrimwalk . Let me know your skill level and I'll recommend a few others! (one trail that OPW says is "easy" a lady I know broke her arm on, so really - be prepared. This is not a stroll along the Appalachian Trail!)
Susan
Waterville, County Kerry