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Skellig Michael trip - Stay in Kenmare or Portmagee??? Need help deciding!

Hi,

We were going to stay in Kenmare, then drive to Portmagee early in the morning for a landing tour to Skellig Michael. But I'm having second thoughts and thinking we should stay closer.

What time would we have to leave Kenmare in the morning to make it to Portmagee by 9am?

Or, If we arrive in Kenmare around 6pm (coming from Killarney/Gap of Dunloe hike) for quick dinner, what's it like to be driving in the evening over to Portmagee? Given it will still be light until around 10pm, right? would there still be some sights to see that late in the day worth viewing on our way to Portmagee?

After our SM trip, we will be continuing on to Dingle, so we won't have time to go back and see anything we missed.

Thanks!

Posted by
290 posts

I spent 2 nights in Portmagee so I wouldn't have to rush on the day I visited Skillig Michael. It's a quiet town, but has several good restaurants just across the street from the docks where the fish are brought it, so it's fresh.

I arrived late afternoon the night before my S.M. trip and visited the museum on Valentia Island; the next day I enjoyed a leisurely breakfast and short drive to the docks for the boat trip to S.M. After the trip, I explored Valentia Island more. It has several scenic views and nice hikes to the cliffs. Also enjoyed a pleasant conversation with a small group of young teenagers from Cork who were on vacation and asked me about the U.S.

It was nice to not have to get up early and worry about traffic on the drive to the docks.

Posted by
472 posts

Another vote for Portmagee. We got there the afternoon before Skellig M, had relaxed time at the SM Experience & meandering around town (good coffee etc at Skellig Mist Bakery), stayed at The Moorings, ate best fish&chips of trip at The Bridge Bar restaurant. Still completely light out at 9pm in mid July, kids fishing off the pier, everything quiet, lovely, non-touristy. Next morning walked across the parking lot to our boat, easy peasy. This was maybe nine yrs ago, so the usual caveat, check recent reviews.

Took maybe 2+ hrs to drive to Kenmare, vaaaast wide vistas of sea/islands/peninsulas. We'd come from Dingle, mirror of your itinerary; along the way there was some thick traffic for the Puck Fair in Killgorin, horse-trading fair since the 12th-c. now with 21st-c. carny rides, but Dingle to Portmagee still took less than 3 hrs.

Ahh, enjoy!

Posted by
459 posts

We stayed in Kenmare and enjoyed it and had a great B&B, Ashfield House Kenmare, but I would be hesitant to make the 1.5 hour plus drive from Kenmare out to Portmagee knowing I had a deadline for a trip I had dreamed about! I like your Portmagee plan better based on trying to drive out there with a deadline hanging over your head.

Posted by
1043 posts

I would suggest you drive to Portmagee in the evening and stay at the Moorings. Its a very nice hotel and wonderful breakfast and bar next door. Then you literally will walk across the road to the fishing boats for Skellig Michael. Be prepared to get wet going out to the island. If you are lucky, sometimes the fisherman will lend you waterproof pants to go over your regular pants or you could bring a pair of waterproof pants yourself to slip into before you make the journey out. it was the spray coming over the side of the boat that got us. We were spitting out sea water for part of the journey and it was splashing into our shoes. I had some North face Gortex shoes on and I was the only one on board with dry feet. Skellig Michael is a wonderful experience and I am glad I got to go. The steps are a little steep and precarious, and were very slippery when we were there, but It is just beautiful. In July you should also see all the Puffins on the island. Have a great time - its was a highlight of our trip.

Posted by
1 posts

We stayed in Kenmare the night before our Skellig Michael trip. Love Kenmare! The drive took us much longer than anticipated and we missed our boat. There was another smaller boat there offering to take all those that missed their boat to the Skelligs. Obviously, this wise, older gentleman boat owner knows how many people miss their scheduled departures. We jumped at the chance. Once near the Skelligs the water was so rough we could not dock. It was beautiful to see them, but never set foot on the island. Know that the trip is weather dependent. I would strongly advise you to stay in Portmagee or close by to avoid missing out.