Skellig Michael - fear of heights

Haven't done that one, but my wife has a fear of heights and I was able to get her to climb Waynapicchu at Machu Picchu. Slow and steady was the key. She had a harder time crossing the Carrick-a-rede bridge in Northern Ireland.

The trip to Skellig Michael was one of the most wonderful, memorable experiences of the trip back in 2011 (so it's been a few years), and for anyone who's able to do it, I highly recommend it! The boat ride, the overwhelming number and variety of birds, seeing Little Skellig along the way, and then the climb and the historic, abandoned structures at the top, are what make the visit so special. As a Coloradan who frequently hikes and bikes--sometimes along exposed, narrow, high places, and I've summited a number of peaks as well as climbed a number of famous towers in Europe for the fabulous views (and sometimes partly for the climb itself), heights generally haven't been a problem for me. Caution is always prudent, and especially in windy conditions, it's important to make sure you have stable footing and aren't too fatigued to keep going up. Boats won't go out if the tides or weather are determined to be too dangerous that day, so no one's looking to put you into a hazardous situation.

Things may have changed in 6 years, and maybe my memory is shot, but, frankly, I don't recall chains anywhere along the steps. Maybe there is one small section near the top, where the steps are narrower than in some places, and since some people are going down while others are still ascending, that may be partly to help people get by each other. Most (if not all) of the way, the steps are open on both left and right, but are reasonably wide and very stable.

From the boat unloading pier, there's first a relatively flat, even path that takes you around for maybe 300 yards to the start of the steps. It's not quite a perfect staircase with completely uniform steps, but is solid and not like rough footholds you might find on climbing a peak (or the worn, slick stairs some old castles or cathedrals might present). Focus on the steps in front of you (making sure you don't bump into the person in front!) and be aware of others who might be passing from behind or coming down from up ahead, but if you can just focus on the next couple of steps at a time, you'll be higher in no time. Admire the views of course, and you won't be able to miss the hundreds of cute puffins on the hillside just inches away, but if looking up too often, or looking out to see how high you are now above the sea causes any problems, focus on where you are at the moment, and the next step in front of you. The climb is steeper in some places, and partway up, it levels off for a bit. This flatter place is where you can go over and look down to the cove on the left, with the ancient steps the hardy monks used hundreds of years ago, before the more modern, more visitor-friendly steps were installed, but you might opt to pass doing that--it's a looong way down, but not dangerous if you don't go too far towards the brink. The contours of the island and the steps change along the way, so the "inside" may be on the left sometimes, and on the right sometimes, and, again, people may be overtaking you, or passing when they're coming down, but don't let anyone rush you . . . everyone's there for the experience, and if they have to wait a moment to get by, they should be cooperative and understanding. If your sister and cousins are there to offer support, and maybe to occasionally help block others from crowding you, you should be able to be the Master of Your Space on the steps. It's the next step that matters, and getting to the top will take care if itself.

The Beehive Huts and the old church aren't at the very top, by the way. The summit is in another part of the island, and even higher up, but you'll have a magnificent view (if you choose). Even if you might decide to to go all the way to the top of the steps for any reason, just being there is a big part of the experience. Coming down, you might want some assistance from you sister or cousins, since you'll be looking down the whole way, but you'll just be retracing your steps, and you were fine on the way up, right? Enjoy!!

By the way, will you be visiting the Cliffs of Moher, farther north? There, they've installed protective barriers to keep you well away from the 800 foot drop to the sea below. They're well worth a visit, too.

Thank you for the replies! I am really going to make every effort to do this. I've heard so many great things about it. Now my next big worry is lack of facilities.....

We will be going to the Cliffs so it's nice to know they have a barrier now.

Have you watched the youtube video? It is great. I think it will help you decide whether you want to or not do it

We decided against it... moreso because we had an 8 and 11 year old with us... I would have done it had it been just adults

I am assuming that this excursion has already been booked?

Good information! I am going in September and have been worried about the same things including the facilities. Unfortunately have some health issues, but determined not to let it stop me! Good for you and I know you'll do just fine!!

Here's the safety video on climbing Skellig Michael.

https://search.aol.com/aol/video?q=skellig+michael&s_it=video-ans&sfVid=true&videoId=22B72E6B1F0280ECFBD922B72E6B1F0280ECFBD9&s_chn=prt_bon&v_t=comsearch

For additional stability, you might consider packing a collapsible walking stick.

kellayam - not to get too graphic, but when you gotta go, you gotta go. It's important to stay hydrated and keep your energy level up (bring water and snacks -- we had our lunches on the boat going home), so you might need to relieve yourself at some point. Unless they've installed toilets on the island in the past 6 years, it's just you and the birds -- and the other people. As in the backcountry in the USA, or on a glacier in the Alps, when there's not a facility, but if you have to go, try to find a discreet place (downwind, of course). There are grassy places a few strides away from the steps where you might be able to do what you need to do (pack out any tissue or T.P. in a Ziplock bag -- they don't have trash cans, either), and maybe your cousins and sister can form a circle around anyone in that situation, as a screen. You probably won't be the only person on the island that day if you do need to "go." A bottle of hand sanitizer might be helpful, too.

One woman on our boat got seasick on the way over, and didn't feel too good the rest of the journey, so there are many possible pitfalls, but it's a trip worth taking and something truly worth experiencing. Cheers!

We were there 11 days ago and one of the women in our group has a fear of heights. There is only a chain to hold on to in two very small sections. You are instructed to climb on the inside of the steps (and they worn accordingly). There is a clearing halfway up where people can stop, rest, etc. before heading to the top. The whole ascent takes less than 30 minutes. You're allotted 2.5 hours on the island. Honestly, the coming down made me more nervous than going up. The woman in our group with a fear of heights sat down on a step on the way down if someone was passing her. The guide said that at least two or three people scoot down on their bums every day. Having said that, it was one of the most amazing experiences of my life and I would encourage anyone who has the opportunity to do to climb to the top. We were very fortunate that the boat we were on had a bathroom (brand new boat, this is its first season in use) and that was awesome. I'd also encourage anyone going to take Dramamine or some other kind of anti-motion sickness med because the boats aren't big and the water can be pretty rough at times.

Op, i feel yr pain. I usually follow the "focus on yr feet " school of thought, but had a particularly bad time in a light house where the steps were open wrought iron & i could see all the way down!!! Any way, another visual trick that works (up hill or down) is to have one of yr friends go ahead of you and focus on the back of her neck.

I'm afraid of heights and at Cliffs of Moher we took a boat so we could look up instead of down! And we were able to get close to the rock with all the birds.

When you return home, please post an update and let us know how your visit goes.......and if you would do it (knowing what you will then personally know) if you had not already done it.

Thank you all for your replies! So far I have started doing my daily walks up hill rather than flat surfaces so I am at least prepared for the physical aspect. I have decided I am going to do this and if I have to go down the stairs on my bum, so be it! I will definitely reply back and let everyone know how it went.

doric8 - I know what you mean about the wrought iron, see thru steps. I was in Prague several years ago and we took the elevator up to the top of the clock tower. We decided to walk down. The way down was more like ramps than stairs, but they were very wide and I knew I'd be fine on those. However, before you got to the ramps, you had to walk down a spiral staircase with wrought iron, see through steps. About 4 or 5 of those steps were out over the open shaft. I froze, I could not move my body. luckily for me, my aunt was in front of me and my mother was behind and they literally had to push and pull me down the remaining 10 or so steps.

Another vote for doric8's method of coming down by focusing on the neck of someone walking right in front of you. I had a big problem on a tour of the National Cathedral tower here in DC walking down the open wire grid staircase - did half a dozen steps on
my bum till our guide saw my problem and showed me how to deal with it.

Good idea to do some hillwalking at home to get in shape physically. See if you can find high places to challenge yourself mentally as well. Good luck and have a great trip!

I climbed Skellig Michael in the summer of 2015. I am also afraid of heights. I was anxious about taking the excursion and almost decided to stay behind, but as everyone in our small group tour was going, I decided to go. I am so glad I did. Here are some things that helped me make the climb; Make sure your backpack is very light and make sure you have a good grip on your shoes. The steps are often slippery and wet. Let a more confident climber go first then you can focus on them and not on the steps and peaks ahead of you. Count 10 steps out aloud, stop, catch your breath, admire the view, and then talk to your friends; (talking and turning you head while climbing can make you feel unbalanced). Don't worry about the people who may be climbing at a fast rate. Keep yourself at a steady rate. Stop if you need to and allow people to pass. You will be at the top in no time. If you stay focused and climb strategically you will be just fine. Have a great trip. It will be worth it and you may even conquer some of those fears.

A few answers to comments above:

NO - they have not installed toilets on Skellig Michael.

Two tourists have died on Skellig Michael from falls in the past 10 years. Here's a comment from the local newspaper:
"Following his death there were calls for a safety rope or handrails to be installed in the island but these were rejected by the Office of Public Works who said a safety rail would give visitors to the site "a false sense of security."
A sign warning tourists of the dangers they faced when climbing to the top of the island was installed recently."

It's also a long boat ride to the island - some don't realize how far it is (7 miles or so depending on your departure) and the weather changes. If you're not boat comfortable, just getting there is a challenge!

For anyone reading this that's doubtful, let me suggest this: The Skellig Experience is a VERY well done museum about Skelligs. It's near the bridge from Port Magee onto Valentia Island. As the Skellig trips are often sold out, and many who want to go, can't, this alternative has gotten much more attention. I've brought guests here 4 times (Skelligs are accessible in winter) and they've all loved it.

Susan
in Waterville

To the OP, I don't know how old you are, or your fitness, but for those older folks who wear bifocal or progressive eyeglasses, be careful when looking up or down and to the side of the stone steps. I suggest to use caution going up and down the steps, because of optical distortion, side blur, and the up and down "wavy effect" if you know what I mean. You may get a false sense of distance and miss the step. Or slip and fall. Be careful of effects of vertigo.
What I do is carry a walking pole to help me keep balance whenever I hike up and down well worn and sometimes slippery uneven steps on hiking paths.
Good luck on your hike up to the monastery at Skellig Michael.
Report back your experience there. The view must be breathtaking. Just don't let your eyes wander too much during the accent and decent,

I agree with Susan--the Skellig Experience is quite interesting. We couldn't go to the island due to Star Wars filming but we really enjoyed the video at the museum--it gave a pretty good sense of what it would be like to visit Skellig Michael (I assume anyway, not having experienced the real thing). And there is a nice picnic area outside if you are so inclined.

Hello All!

OP here. We were not able to get to Skellig Michael as planned. While it appeared to be a beautiful day, the seas were quite rough and a storm did come through later. Instead we walked to Bray Head on Valencia Island and then went to the Skellig experience. After watching the film I was both incredibly disappointed and relieved we could not get to the island! Hopefully one day I'll return and will try again to get there.

All was not lost as my grandfather was from Valencia Island and we were able to get to the Historical Society, which was his former school. They had some of the old school desks there (think Little House on the Prairie style) and it was so strange to think that he may have actually sat in one of those seats.

Thanks for the trip report, OP! It will be that much more special when you DO make it to the Skellig!

I'm going to add a few things as, even though you have gone, others might see this post and read it!

I was there in September, the last week of the season. It was a glorious day. Except the Irish Coast Guard helocopter who had to circle and circle and circle waiting to pick up the man who was unsteady on his feet, hadn't eaten breakfast, wasn't expecting the hot day (it was glorious) and almost collapsed.

There is NO chain to hold on to. There are hundreds and hundreds of steps. There wasn't a whiff of a breeze when i was there and let me tell you I said to myself many times "I can't believe people can do this on a windy day!" I had tried 3 times before and the boat was cancelled each time. I'm glad I didn't go on a windy day!!!

I suggest a visit to The Skellig Experience for any who are thinking of a Skellig visit but are going off season; afraid of heights; isn't fit for a very high climb; isn't comfortable on a one hour boat ride over open ocean.

I can almost see it from my house. I may go again, but I love it from afar, and don't feel the need to. There are other Skellig Monk choices in the area (like the ruin on Church Island on a lake in Waterville, or the abbey ruin in Ballinskelligs).

Don't go if others say you should go - only go if YOU want to go!!

Susan - Expat in Waterville.