My wife and I had had three amazing weeks in Ireland in September. It was our first time in the country and we can’t wait to go back.
We decided to travel entirely by public transit, opting out of a car due to high rental prices and our preference to stay longer in fewer places. We had some long travel days but it all worked out, thanks to shared info from other travelers and helpful folks at the bus stops and train stations.
We flew British Airways nonstop from Denver to London-Heathrow then a quick hop to Dublin, arriving in the afternoon. That night we stayed at McGettigan's Townhouse, a lovely place near to Heuston Station. We took the train to Galway the next day but would have gladly stayed there longer. Gorgeous rooms and wonderful people in the pub below.
Easy train ride to Galway, where we stayed 5 nights at the Victoria Hotel Galway, which is right around the corner from the train station and just off Eyre Square. Recently remodeled rooms and a great staff, plus the Queen Street bar/restaurant in the hotel is first rate.
Wandered all over the bustling Latin Quarter, which was boosted by the returning student population and made for a lively scene. Restaurant highlights for us were The Seafood Bar at Kirwan's and Ard Bia at Nimmos, plus Tigh Chóilí for good craic and some of the best trad music we heard in Galway.
We took a day trip out to Inishmore using Aran Island Ferries (bus to the ferry left right outside our hotel) and spent a gorgeous day biking around and getting as close as we dared to the cliff edges at Dún Aonghasa. Definitely one of the highlights of our entire trip.
We also booked Lally Tours for a day trip to Connemara and Kylemore Abbey. Large bus tours are not our style but it was fun and informative and quite enjoyable.
Our next stop was Dingle, via train to Limerick then bus to Dingle via Tralee. It was a full travel day but well worth the effort. In Dingle we stayed for 7 amazing days at an AirBnB right downtown on the Strand. Really enjoyed having our own kitchen and cooking up the local fresh seafood, plus some amazing meals in the local restaurants. Highlights were Out of the Blue, James Long Gastro Pub and Ashe’s Seafood Restaurant.
There’s a lively pub scene in Dingle and we especially enjoyed spending time at O'Flaherty's Bar and Dick Mack’s, where they are rightfully proud of their craft beers!
History and archeology are right in our travel wheelhouse, so a major highlight of our time in Dingle was a day with Mícheál of Sciuird Archaeological Tours. He is able to connect Ireland’s rich past with its contemporary landscape in a way that is both informative and engaging. Top notch.
We also booked Dingle Sea Safari for an exhilarating Rib Boat tour that got us out to the Great Blasket Island and the local seals, then farther out in the bay for close-up views of dolphins and whales. So much fun!
Next up was Kenmare, with buses connecting through Tralee and Killarney, where we stayed at an AirBnB just outside of town and enjoyed picaresque views of the River Finnihy as it heads down to the bay.
The highlight of our stay, and our entire trip, was the tour we booked with Brown’s Taxi and
Tours. It was a splurge for just the two of us to hire the wonderful Paul Brown for two whole days, but it was worth every penny. Paul is a delight, a gentleman and a scholar, retired Garda, full of good humor and grace. Loves his amazing countryside like no one else, and so proud to share it with travelers. We felt like we had the best family friend taking us on our tours of Ring of Kerry and Ring of Beara. These are memories we will always keep and if you’re looking for a guide he’s the one to call.
Kenmare was quieter than Dingle but still full of charm. All the pubs are low key and friendly; we especially liked our time spent at Roughty’s Bar and The Atlantic. Lots of gastropub offerings in town and we enjoyed delicious local mussels at Foley’s.