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Ring of Kerry - Clockwise or counterclockwise in the afternoon?

We're planning a trip to Ireland in June. We'll be spending some time at Killarney National Park, and then traveling to Portmagee for the night. We'll likely be leaving the park mid-afternoon. Would it be better to drive clockwise or counter-clockwise on the ring, in order to avoid the tour buses that time of day?

Posted by
1117 posts

I did it in January, so certainly completely different circumstances, but it did occur to me to think about which way is best to do it.

I hope you are planning to go through the Gap of Dunloe, between Molls Gap and Kate Kearney's Cottage (as opposed to the higway). That was my favourite part of the Ring. A deep and narrow gap under the looming Carrauntoohil (Ireland's highest mountain), often with drovers running their sheep along the road, and with a great pub in Kate Kearney's Cottage.

If you are going through the Gap, make sure you do so at midday. It is so deep that one can lose the light if you go too late in the day (albeit we did it in January and you will be doing it in the long days of June).

We did it counterclockwise, in this order: Killarney, Muckross House, Torc Waterfall, Molls Gap, Gap of Dunloe, Kate Kearney's Cottage, Killorglin, Cahersiveen, Caherdaniel, Sneem, Kenmare. I am glad we did it this way, because by Kenmare we were losing light, and I would have hated to be losing light through the Gap of Dunloe.

But we started in the morning and you are not leaving Killarney until mid-afternoon, so depending on how late you leave, perhaps you should go clockwise so you are not going through the Gap of Dunloe in early-evening darkness.

Posted by
409 posts

Yikes!

What crazy answers! I wonder what "highway" that poster above is talking about?

I live on the Ring of Kerry - I can see it from where I'm sitting right now.....

I'd say from Killarney in the afternoon go through Glenbeigh to get to Portmagee. The Waterville to Sneem section is the most beautiful, so you don't want to be rushing that after a day in Killarney National Park!! The Killarney to Glenbeigh section isn't the prettiest, to be honest.....

And DON'T drive the Gap of Dunloe in the mid day. it's a one lane road; there are horses and carts that go VERY slowly on hills, and will not make it a pleasant drive. WALK it at that time; cycle it at that time. But don't drive through the Gap mid day.... it's foolish.

There's a TON of things to do near Portmagee..... some new so not on websites yet. Let me know if you need tips!

Susan
Expat living in Waterville/Skellig Coast

Posted by
29 posts

Thank you for the suggestions! @inireland - yes, please send along tips for Portmagee. My husband and son will be trying for the landing on Skellig Michael, but I won’t handle the boat trip well. I’ll need something to do on my own nearby. Thank you.

Posted by
1117 posts

The highway that inireland is not aware of is the N72 from Killarney north to Killorglin, and the N71 south from Killarney to Molls Gap. The N72 is identified as the Ring of Kerry on maps, but I preferred the Gap of Dunloe to get from Molls Gap to Killorglin. Contrary to inireland, we found the carts, sheep, etc. were part of the attraction, not at all a downside. Different strokes for different folks, so if speed is your criterion, by all means take the highway.

Posted by
409 posts

Darren - I can see the N72 from my house window -- I wouldn't call that a highway!! the highways are M roads (motorway); the N roads are National Roads..... the speed limit goes from 30 to 100 kmh.... so not really a highway!

Globug17 - There is so much to see near Portmagee! First I'd suggest seafood chowder at The Moorings while the gang is out on the boat.... it's fantastic. There's a few shops (very few - it's not a tourist town like, say, Dingle) but if you want to wander you can go across the bridge to Valentia Island and see Bray Head (a bit of a hike but stunning); Geokaun Cliffs are stunning (pronouned Yo Kahn); The lighthouse there; the gardens; the tetropod tracks (only tetropod fossils in the world not in a museum - stunning views).... oh, look -- EVERYTHING has stunning views!! :-D

There are art classes available for an afternoon; photography walks; the Skellig Experience since you're not going - it's worth the time and you'll know more about what your family is up to!

Hope this helps!

Susan
Expat living in Waterville/Skellig Coast.....

Posted by
2980 posts

The Gap of Dunloe is signed at both ends that it's for local traffic only. The Garda have better things to do than police it, so no one's going to pull you over if you attempt to drive it, but you will cause the mother of all traffic jams if you do it between 8AM and about 5 PM when the jaunting cars are operating (they have priority). If you must do it, don't drive it at peak hours.
Better yet, just walk it for one of the most pleasant excursions in Ireland.

Posted by
359 posts

Glowbug17......picture a small country road near Ann Arbor.......cut its width in half........add sheep and carts....it doesn't ad up to a highway. And while riding up behind a local, or through their herd might seem quaint......they aren't so thrilled. Respect the locals and avoid it during the posted times. We hiked it and it was wonderful.

Good advice on bus directions etc.....but really isn't a huge deal if you're on a relaxed pace anyway. Counterclockwise is the way to go.

Posted by
29 posts

Thank you for all the advice. Sounds like we should go counterclockwise on the highway in the afternoon, in order to avoid the tour bus traffic. We'll spend a few days in the area, so we'll have time to see things around the ring.