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Revised 21 Day Itinerary-- Feedback & Recommendations, please!

Hello Ireland Forum!

After much research, soul-searching, and your very helpful feedback & recommendations, this is our planned itinerary. We will be driving and plan to explore areas surrounding these locations (plus some down time here and there), including Glendalough, Rock of Cashel, Ring of Kerry, Killarney National Park, Dingle Peninsula, Aran Islands, etc., etc.:

Nights 1, 2, & 3: Dublin

Nights 4 & 5: Kilkenny

Nights 6 & 7: Kinsale

Nights 8 & 9: Kenmare

Nights 10, 11 & 12: Dingle Town (unfortunately, Stephen, your guesthouse appears to be fully booked)

Nights 13 & 14: Doolin

Nights 15 & 16: Westport

Nights 17, 18 & 19: Donegal Town

Night 20: Dublin (airport hotel)

We do not plan to overnight in Northern Ireland but plan to venture there on a full day when staying in Donegal.

Any feedback on the itinerary and recommendations for accommodations (inexpensive-moderate), etc. would be greatly appreciated! We are most partial to B&Bs and/or older or quaint establishments rather than modern facilities and probably mostly within walking distance of a nice pub in case we partake of a pint or 3.

Thanks so much!

Posted by
317 posts

Greetings from Ireland.
In my humble, but expert opinion that itinerary is close to perfection. (Perfection for me would be dropping a night in Kilkenny and Kenmare and adding two nights in the North, but thats ok, its never a perfect world!)
I think you'll have a great time and you have done some brilliant planning.
From Donegal town you could do a nice day-trip up to the Giants Causeway, it'll be about minimum 5 hours driving in all, which is a lot, but it can be done.
Don't worry about my guest-house being full, theres at least 15 other good ones in town (they just don't have gentle-giant Irish Wolfhound roaming the gardens!). Book soon though, Dingle is filling fast, this is a record year.
Best wishes on your journey, it'll be a magical trip. What time of year are you going?
Slainte/Good health
Stephen McPhilemy
Rick Steves Ireland tour-guide
Dingle & Derry

Posted by
53 posts

Thank you for the reply, Stephen, and for the "heads up" about Dingle filling up fast.

I am pleased that you like the looks of our itinerary. I have probably anguished over it unnecessarily. Your stamp of approval will help me relax a bit.

We will be there this coming May. Soon!
Thanks again for your help. You are a tremendous asset to the Rick Steves community.

Posted by
5 posts

Stephen, I'm trying to decide if we want to take a flight-seeing trip over Inishmore to see "The Worm Hole". Can you advise where to arrange, fares, just your thoughts in general. Do think we will have time to ferry over. Thanks, in advance.

Posted by
96 posts

Hi
Sounds like a great trip. I am also in my sixties and have done 5 trips around Ireland by bicycle. I have been to all the places that you plan to visit and here are my comments.
I think your timing per region is about right and the car allows you to see so much more. Also, if apprehensive about Northern Ireland, don't worry, there are more than enough wonderful places in the South to make your trip.
I would not be so rigorous in using the minimum 2 night per stay rule as it may cause significant backtracking, especially along the coast. It also tends to get you to mystical, magical places at the same time as bus loads of tourists.
Example:
Day 4 I would drive to Powerscourt ( < 1 hour fromDublin and best grounds I have seen in Ireland, I didn't see the building as it was being restored after a fire). After lunch, drive to Glendalough ( again < 1 hour ). Then check into B&B, see the sights and, if time walk. Glendalough is a beautiful small village and is busy during the day but the tourists tend to be on buses and day trippers so lovely and quiet by about 5 pm. If B&Bs full, you could look into into a private room at the international hostel - lovely location and seems to cater to older independent travelers. It stays light til well after 9:00 so I would suggest an early pub meal and an after dinner walk when you will have the site to yourself.
Day 5 Drive to Killkenny in the am, count on 2 hours as all roads in the Wicklow Mountains are narrow and windy but well worth it. See Kilkenny Castle and churches after lunch and hit a few pubs for traditional music in the evening.
This saves 2 hours of backtracking on day 5 and you get to see Glendalough at a much quieter time.
All things being equal, I would prefer multi-night stays but sometimes it just may not be efficient.

My advice would be to pick a good touring map- I used Michelin 1/400,000 motoring and tourist map and map out your ideal trip in detail, writing down: things to see, where to stop, estimated driving time.
Being a circular route, you could plan it clockwise and counterclockwise, also Dublin at the start or end of the trip. This sometimes opens up key places that are booked, ie Dingle B&B or better balances travel times ie convenient ferry times to the Arran Islands.
If you are interested in my comments on the rest of your route, let me know.
Alan

Posted by
346 posts

I heartily recommend you book at Pax Guesthouse in Dingle. (If he has room) We have stayed there twice and absolutely love it! It is uphill from the town, which gives it an amazing view over town and into the harbor. The owner/host, John, is fantastic. He treats you like you are dear friend staying in his house. The breakfasts are amazing, and if you are around at tea time, he gives you that too. There is Rio the dog, a kitty, and several hens on premise. While you can certainly walk into town for dinner, we always drive, an never have any trouble. If you can get a sea view room. It is so worth the few extra Euros!

Posted by
53 posts

Thank you 'alangowdey' and 'SherrieF for your replies, as well as those that came before. (I don't think 'usps wife' was actually replying to my post-- maybe a mistake?).

Since I last posted I have booked stays along our itinerary but most can be changed, so I will look into your thoughtful suggestions.

A couple of comments in response/explanation:

  • We decided on the clockwise tour to avoid some week-long motorbike racing events scheduled for the north towards the beginning of our trip (shutting down roads, etc.).

  • We feel that we want to have arranged a place to stay each night but not necessarily have each day planned out so we can allow for changes in weather, our moods/tiredness, recommendations of locals while there, and some spontaneity. With that said, we will keep specific suggestions in mind as we go along.

I love this forum and the fact that I have received such generous and helpful responses.

Thanks again!