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Returned today from 2 weeks in Ireland

Returned from 2 weeks just today and thought I'd share some since the whole trip was Rick Steves inspired.

Dublin- 3 nights Brooks Hotel
Kilkenny 1 night - Zuni Hotel
Kinsale- 2 nights- Desmond House
Kenmare- 1 night- Lagom Guesthouse
Portmagee-2 nights- The Moorings
Dingle- 2 nights-Greenmount House
Galway- 2nights- The Hardiman

Our itinerary started in Dublin. The Brooks hotel was a great hotel, was centrally located, and very well run. Highlights included Kilmainham prison tour, Irish immigration museum and stolling, enjoying the food/music, shopping and local sights.
Went to Kilkenny. The woman who checked us in immediately gave us a map and told us where to go for our day of touring- castle, old church, walked to the top of a tour at the church which was really pretty. Loved our day in Kilkenny.
Drove from Kilkenny to the Rock of Cashel and then on to Kinsale where we stayed at The Desmond House for 2 nights. Wonderful hostess there. Beautiful large room We had a trip highlight in Kilkenny when we took a walking tour with Barry Maloney, a former Rick Steves' best or Ireland tour guide. We liked him so much I even bought his book. We also walked to a large old fort and saw beautiful views of the harbor.
From Kinsale we drove to Kenmare. Did laundry and then drove to the Kissane Sheep Farm where we saw an awesome sheep herding exhibition. Kenmare was a launching point for us for the Ring of Kerry.
Drove from Kenmare to Portmagee via the lower part of the Ring of Kerry- just beautiful scenery! Highly recommend the Ring of Kerry. The cliffs of Kerry were better than the cliffs of Moher in my opinion.
We stayed in Portmagee for 2 nights bcs I wanted to take a boat tour of the Skellig Islands, which we did, and it was great! There were thousands of birds nesting on the smaller of the 2 islands which I liked even better than Skellig Michael. That one is famous for having had a monastery on it about a thousand years ago or more.
Drove from Portmagee to Dingle and checked into the Greenmount House. That was our favorite one of the trip. The cows across the street and the bay view from our room/balcony were a bonus. Gary, who checked us in, made sure we knew where to go in town and helped us planning our day around the Slea Head loop. That loop was a big trip highlight. It was one after the other of unbelievable sights. We parked at Donmore Head and did an amazing walk overlooking the sea. The great thing about the loop is that there are also cool ancient things like the oldest known church in Ireland (which is formed just from rocks being laid together)
After checking out in Dingle we had a long driving day, though we did do a lot of stopping. We went to the Cliffs of Moher and then drove through an area called the Burren which had more old churches and structures and rock things from a thousand years ago.
We ended in Galway where we stayed for 2 nights at The Hardiman. We liked that hotel least of all of our accommodations, but I think we may have just gotten a bad room. We weren't able to check in until 6 pm or so and they gave us a room on the 3rd floor overlooking the train station in the back and we had to spend an hour with a maintenance person who had to fix the shower for us to be able shower. Otherwise the hotel was beautiful. The common areas have high ceilings and it really has the feel of an stately older hotel. Galway has a nice latin quarter and really does have a ton of very good outdoor music.
We didn't make a lot of dinner reservations. I found eating out for 2 weeks straight to be a challenge. For me it's just too much food. We did really love a place called Vintage Kitchen in Dublin.

Posted by
146 posts

Sounds like a great trip! Vintage Kitchen has been a must visit on my annual trip
to visit family in Ireland for the past 5 years. In addition to properly executed hospitality, VK also has a fantastic playlist on Spotify. I was just there 2 weeks ago. Still thinking about the duck butter served with gorgeous little rolls…

Posted by
3022 posts

Thanks for posting. In retrospect are there any alterations you would have made for the trip? Did you have the rightamount of time for each stop or did you wish you had allocated more time to asnywhere?

Posted by
7 posts

Good question. I planned the trip this way using recommendations from Rick's book but also bcs my husband enjoys cities more than I do. I would have only stayed 2 nights in Dublin. Would I have carved off Galway? maybe. We were so completely blown away from traveling around the Ring of Kerry, the Slea Head loop, cliffs of Moher, and the Burren that heading back into any city at that point might have been hard. Our energy was a little lower by the time we arrived in Galway too. If we hadn't been going to Galway we wouldn't have seen the Burren and all that was in it. And that was pretty great. Rick's book and his driving route recommendations were really key. I think I would have definitely added another night in Dingle and subtracted a night in Galway. We flew out of Shannon. Getting to that airport was a breeze from Galway Saturday morning. There were zero people in front of us at security, and also zero people in line for US customs. Returning our car took like 2 minutes too and we hopped right on a van to the terminal. We arrived way too early.

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3022 posts

The Burren scenery is amazing and so different from anywhere else in Ireland.

Posted by
41 posts

How many nights would you recommend for Dingle? I’m planning an Ireland trip and I can’t decide between two or three nights.

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163 posts

We stayed at the Greenmount House in March and loved it. We thought it had the best breakfast of our trip. Gary is great and we loved the Julia Roberts' connection. We too liked the Cliffs of Kerry more than the Cliffs of Moher.

Posted by
12274 posts

I found eating out for 2 weeks straight to be a challenge. For me it's just too much food

That is our feeling as well. Restaurant fatigue sets in in any country. Apartments or aparthotels help a lot.

Posted by
1385 posts

I enjoyed your report. I also get overwhelmed with eating out for two weeks. Once in a while we get good bread, cheese, tomatoes, etc and picnic or eat in for dinner if we are staying in an apartment or aparthotel.

Posted by
1045 posts

Sadly, no boats were able to go out the day we were in Portmagee. I'm glad you were able to see the islands close up (we had to settle for the visitor center).

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7 posts

I would say 2 or 3 nights in Dingle would be perfect. With 3 you would have time to do a longer walk at more than one places.

I knew when I booked 2 nights in Portmagee that it was a gamble with the weather for the Skelig Island tour. I almost didn't get on the boat bcs I was fighting a stomach bug which had started in Kenmare but I fought my fear and got on that boat and powered through. Was easy to do that staying across the street at the Moorings.

Posted by
233 posts

Thank you for posting this trip report! I understand what you mean about restaurant fatigue. You mentioned you did not make a lot of dinner reservations. Is that because you didn't feel you needed them or you just didn't end up eating out much? I'm trying to learn whether reservations are needed/advised for late August and into September, especially on the weekends and/or in certain towns/cities.

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7 posts

If you are a foodie you definitely need reservations. It is very competitive. And, the prices rival any New York City restaurant. Dingle was especially so I think. We were turned away from at least 3 places in Dingle before we ended up at the Murphy's Bar and ate at the bar. Had a nice chat with Seamus. I would suggest making reservations if you are going at a very popular time of year.
We ate at a lot of Pubs. I remember the Hairy Lemon in Dublin. Sometimes I would just get seafood chowder for dinner.

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233 posts

Thanks! We're looking forward to eating at the pubs, and may do that exclusively. Seafood chowder for dinner? Heaven!