Our September 2018 trip did just that. We flew to the Dublin airport, and immediately caught a bus for Galway. It passed thru downtown Dublin en route, so we got a mini tour of Dublin before continuing west. The bus allowed a nap, and we got to our Galway B&B in time for a short walk and a visit to the city museum, which had been closed for remodeling on our previous trip, in 2011.
That prior trip, we’d rented bicycles, and took them on the ferry to Inishmore, biggest of the Arans. This time, we rented a car, and drove it to the small airport west of Galway, marveling that we’d earlier braved the narrow, busy road on bikes! We found this second trip that the fast flight to Inishmore is the way to go (unless you have bikes with you), as it’s so convenient, quick, and when the weather’s fierce and the seas are rough, the plane flies when ferries sometimes don’t depart. Both trips, ferries were delayed because of a too-rough crossing, but the plane departed on schedule. We parked our car at the airstrip (free) and upon our return the following afternoon, headed for Clifden.
After a few nights in the Buttermilk Lodge B&B in Clifden, having driven the Sky Road loop and other scenic parts of Connemara, we continued northward. But first, pre-reserve a Hawk Walk at the Ashford Castle. The castle’s now a fancy manor house hotel, but Hawk Walkers at their falconry take a guided stroll through their woods, flying a Harris Hawk, which goes up to tree branches and then lands back on your gauntlet for a treat. Do the extended walk, which includes their cool owl, too.
The Killary Fjord boat tour shouldn’t be missed. It cruises up and back on Ireland’s only true fjord, past mussel farms, with a narrated tour. We had delicious steamed mussels onboard (late lunch), which had just come from the farm - none fresher!
We skipped Westport and Newport this trip, and drove to Achill Island, connected to the mainland by a bridge. The island offers a tidy, secluded beach at the western end, hiking opportunities, and a sobering famine village ghost town.
Farther north, the Ceide Fields archaeological sight was a surprise find. We then made our way past Sligo and Donegal, to the Slieve League cliffs. By all accounts, these are even higher than the Cliffs of Moher, but the low clouds and rain made it impossible to see upwards, but the crashing waves and rock formations close to shore were interesting.
Up to Dunfanaghy for several nights, really away from it all. Their outstanding restaurant’s dinners were included with our stay. The tiny “town” has a surviving workhouse, now a museum, from Ireland’s difficult past.
Into Northern Ireland by way of Derry (Londonderry). There was a surprise festival downtown, and we arrived mid-afternoon, so did a 45 minute walk before heading onward. Derry could be worth a stay for a night or more. From a high vantage point, we could see across the River Foyle into the mural-clad buildings that had seen troubles during The Troubles, but didn’t go into the neighborhood, needing to reach our B&B outside Bushmills.
The Seaview B&B was welcoming and comfortable, and served as a great base from which to explore the Antrim Coast. We hiked from a parking lot just up the road from there to the Giants Causeway, but you can drive, or take the Rambler Bus. We skipped the Carrick-a-Rede bridge, but other folks clearly did that sight. We observed it from a picnic table just down the road, while having lunch. That afternoon, we did The Gobbins, an adventure started 100 years ago, when steel walkways, ramps, and stairs were built into the otherwise inaccessible rocky coast. This steel framework fell into disuse and disrepair over the years, but has now been resurrected and brought up to full safety standards. Led by a guide, it’s unique. A seal followed our group around, swimming just offshore.
We had a night just outside Belfast, but opted to skip the big city, in favor of:
