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Quickest of trip reports!

Hi all. Sorry for not returning to thank everyone for their kind help earlier on. I've been super busy, been sick, and life just did what it always does...dump some unexpected issues in the lap, and leave us to figure it out. Right as rain now, so wanted to give a quick report.

Our trip was end of May and we spent two weeks in Ireland.

We stayed two nights out at Sandford estate, and used the Luas to get into the center. It was no trouble at all, and we had a peaceful sleep in a two bedroom apt.

Was able to get tickets the day of our trip to Ireland for Kilmainham Gaol. That was the best experience in Dublin. Sad, educational, yet beautiful. Used the Luas to get out there as well, and some walking. Otherwise, we just walked all over the center, and saw the usual things people mention here. I'm not a fan of the HOHO buses, so we didn't do that at all.

Spent two nights in Belfast, and wished that I knew before how much I would love Belfast! Beautiful city, very friendly, helpful people everywhere. Not overrun with tourists like Dublin was.

Did the black taxi tour, but was not impressed. It was okay for a warmup in my opinion. I love history, art and politics, world events, so decided to take the Coiste political tour, and was blown away. They need to charge more for what they deliver. We learned so much, and saw so much. You can find them on FB. Wonderful people to deal with. At the end of the tour, which lasted almost 4 hours, we were taken to a pub for a free Guinness. Doesn't get better than that.

We visited the Botanic gardens, the parks in the area, walked all over the city center into the night, and felt safer than we do at home! Ulster museum is lovely as well, and were able to take a tour of Crumlin Gaol as well.

What worked for us was uber! So quick, so cheap, and each driver was different, so brought something unique to our understanding of Belfast. Deliberately skipped the Titanic because I was trying to avoid the touristy things.

On the way to Belfast we were able to spend time in Carlingford. Lovely town.

We stayed 3 nights in Bushmills and saw a lot in the surrounding towns. My apt in Bushmills was not the greatest, and town isn't anything special in my opinion. Visited Dunluce castle, Giant's Causeway, Portrush (not impressed - Rick went on about it, but I'll give it 1*). Someone here had mentioned Port Stewart, and I was so glad that they did. Loved it. Loved Ballycastle also.

We then spent four nights in Donegal, in Doochary. Glad we didn't stay in Donegal town as I wasn't impressed. Loved my little town in Doochary. Visited Slieve League and Glenveagh park twice! Also Ardara, the caves in that area, gorgeous beaches. Spent a day in Derry and visited Bogside, the Free Derry Museum and the walls. Too many things to mention.

Our final stay was in Clifden. Before we got to Clifden, we stopped off in Sligo. So glad we did. Visited the Abbey there, a museum, and had a lovely lunch. Clifden was okay, but wish I didn't spend 3 nights there. Connemara was lovely, but couldn't hold a candle to Glenveagh. The final day was spent in Trim on the way to Dublin airport. Loved Trim! Stayed the night at the airport and handed over the car that evening.

Loved Ireland. Weather didn't bother us. I love the cold, and was prepared for rain. The food was wonderful as were the drinks. Would go back again, and spend more time up north and Belfast. We only had to deal with hundreds of tourists at Cliffs of Moher. Though the Cliffs are lovely, tour buses full of tourists aren't my thing.

Donegal is more my thing!

Posted by
11294 posts

Thanks for taking the time to post this trip report!

Posted by
16 posts

Belfast is on my bucket list! Glad to hear you enjoyed it!

Posted by
14 posts

Thanks for the report.

DW and I will be visiting Ireland in September.

We plan on staying in Belfast for 3-4 days. Staying in a hotel in Belfast. We're interested in seeing the wall, and murals. Where in Belfast, do you pick up the Black Taxi Tours? What is the cost? Are there separate tours for Catholic and Protestant neighborhoods? Or can we walk the neighborhoods on our own? We are fit, and in our 60's.
Only other point of interest for us near Belfast is seeing the Giants Causeway.

Thank you.

Posted by
409 posts

Hold on!

It wasn't finished when I was last there, but the Titanic Museum is worth a look, folks! EVERY person - every single one - who i've talked to that has been there has raved about it. Some have said if they knew how good it was, they'd have planned more than the 5 hours (!!) they spent. Two couples said they'd have gone a second day if they had known how good it was.

It was picked by TripAdvisor as the number 1 destination in Ireland - and their past #1 - the Irish National Stud is fantastic, so I'd say don't poo-poo this as just a tourist trap.

Susan
in Waterville ROI

Posted by
502 posts

Susan, there were other things that were more important to see in the time we had there. Doesn't matter what Trip Advisor says to be honest about the Titanic.

Posted by
502 posts

Len, we paid £50 for a family of four with the black taxi tour.

I don't recommend going to look at the murals on your own. You'll miss a lot. My preference was Coiste political tours to be honest. You can find them on FB. They have several tours, and there is one where they take you to both sides, but you'll have to see what's available for the dates you're there. I suggest you contact them from now.

You'll love Belfast. Uber was our mode of transport. If you have time, Crumlin Gaol shouldn't be missed. Pub food is great and quite cheap compared to the US, and the quality we thought was better.

Posted by
81 posts

Ginger - was not impressed with Portrush, either. Had a great dinner, but the town itself was nothing to write home about.

Same with the Cliffs of Moher. Shoulder-to-shoulder crowds are not my thing, and it was so hard to get up the side of the coastline to even get a picture. Too bad, because it is stunning scenery. Giants Causeway was so intriguing! So unusual and hard to explain to others; just gotta be there.

Having said that, I'd go back to Ireland in a millisecond. It was our favorite trip this far!

Posted by
502 posts

Linda, I too would love to go back. Absolutely hated the amount of people at COM. Did you go to Slieve League? Less tourist, and so much easier to explore.

I am not sure if I would ever go south. Sounds like a nightmare with the tour buses and tourists.

Forgot to add for anyone needing gluten free fish & chips in Dublin. Beschoff Bros went out of their way to not only cater for a GF member, but also cater to my multiple food allergies and intolerances. They wrote me several times back and forth before the trip. The restaurant was not packed with tourists, but mainly people working in Dublin and Irish people. The server himself was from Rome. Quite a character.

Posted by
81 posts

Ginger - our tour from Dublin went south to Kenmare, Dingle, Galway and so many places in between. Southern and Western Ireland was our favorite, especially Kinsale and Dingle. LOVED Kinsale, that little coastline town. And Dingle was marvelous. We stayed at the Milltown House, a quarter mile to Dingle on a small bay, and I would live there if they would have me lol. I could give or take Galway. It was just the starting place for the Aran Islands, Giants Causeway, Dark Hedges (sooo cool), etc. Northern Ireland was beautiful, and honestly, Belfast was just "okay" to me. However, we only had one day there and really never got to explore it. I like the cities, i.e. Dublin, etc., but going to the smaller towns was real Ireland to us.

Posted by
2262 posts

Thanks Ginger. Too bad about your Black Taxi tour, that may be a little "luck of the draw". We had an excellent Taxi tour-very balanced and John narrated a bunch of murals and their meanings for us. At the end he asked me to guess whether he was Catholic or Protestant, I got it wrong. The Coiste Tours look really good, that must've been eye opening!

We arrived at the Cliffs of Moher at 3 or 4 in the afternoon (mid September) and there was perhaps ten other people walking around, the buses long gone, and that was nice.

http://coiste.ie/

Posted by
449 posts

Hi Ginger:

Thanks for posting your trip report. Because I saw most of the political sites/sights in Dublin, Belfast, and Derry lat year I want to return and see the more tourist oriented place such as the distilleries, historic builidngs, landscapes. Your comments and those of other responders would suggest doing some homework before leaving for Ireland because not every site is worthy of a stop despite what the guide books say. Sounds like you ha a real time in Belfast. It's a surprising city with a beautiful, peaceful core that surrounded by districts that have long memories of what happened in the 70s, 80s, and 90s.

Good trips in the future.

Geor(ge)

Posted by
3561 posts

Thank you so much for this trip report.
I will be making my second trip to Ireland this summer, but doing the southwest.
Now, I know there is a third trip in my future, because you have illustrated that I will still be missing the north part of the island.
I will be visiting the Titanic museum though. Sometimes, dealing with tourists (of which we are when visiting) is worth it.
Tourist attractions are usually tourist attractions for a reason.
We loved the weather too! We are from AK and we kept saying the weather is just like AK in the summer!

Posted by
8 posts

Thanks for the Trip report. This was very helpful!

Posted by
8880 posts

Laughing at your frequent disdain for tourists. What do you think you are when you travel?

Posted by
409 posts

Maybe my comment about the Titanic Museum in Belfast was overlooked due to Ginger's comment about Trip Advisor. As I mentioned, every person I've talked to about the museum has raved about it. Many said they would have given it two days to tour. Obviously, if hiking and not history is your "thing" than that wouldn't be the place to go..... but if you're a museum-lover, it's one of the top 5 on the island.....

Susan
Expat living in Waterville, RoI