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Question regarding routes

My first question : (1) We will be leaving Doolin, visiting the Cliffs of Moher and ending the day in Dingle. Would it be best to take the route through Limerick or the coastal route via the ferry? It appears that using the ferry will save miles but will it really save that much time? ALSO, on our approach into Dingle should we do the Conor Pass? It appears the pass itself is only 4 (slow) miles, but would that be the most direct route into Dingle. If not how much time would it add to the trip if we did the Pass?

Second Question (2) We can either leave from Killarney or Kenmare on our way to Kinsale. Would you recommend Killarney to Kinsale OR Kenmare to Kinsale via N-71. We probably would not take the time to drive the Beara Peninsula but we may drive part of the Peninsula. Does this route take you close enough to the coast to make it worthwhile? Lol, this route also looks like it involves one of those R roads for maybe 25 miles?

Third Question (3) I am finding that the trip planners online and the RS map have a big difference between the miles and the travel time to get between Kilkenny and Glendalough. RS says 95 miles 2.25 hr. The two online planners that we have checked are both 66 miles and 1.24 hr. I am sure what route the RS map takes because it is just an insert on the larger map. For those of you that have done this trip what say you?

Thank you!

Posted by
2774 posts

The only question I can answer is the first one. Take the ferry. Definitely.

Posted by
317 posts

Greetings from Ireland.
To be brief (though if you ned more detailed answers, just ask)
1. In my humble opinion (I do this route 25 times per summer with Rick Steves groups and loads of times with friends and family) do not take the ferry from Dingle to the Cliffs of Moher! Heres why
- the road from Listowel to the Ferry is awful, a bog road, as bumpy as the moon
- the ferry costs €15 or so
- if you miss the ferry you have 30-60 minutes in the middle of nowhere chatting with other tourists about how unfortunate it was you missed the ferry
- the road via Limerick is better and in my opinion quicker and more scenic (also a beautiful 1919-21 War of Independence monument in Newcastlewest)
- going via Adare and Limerick you get to see one of Irelands heritage villages and also Bunratty Castle. Adare is fantastic, for an hour!
- You bypass Limerick as our glorious government have used our taxes wisely to build a time-saving tunnel under the river Shannon (toll €2 or so). Though Limerick is worth a stop, imagine dragon by Portland and not stopping for lunch or a coffee! And Portland doesnt have a magnificent 12th century Norman castle in the centre of town!
- no bumpy bog-roads
- if you think bumpy bog-roads are exciting, well good luck to you and enjoy the ride! To be honest, the road via Tarbert and the Shannon ferry is also enjoyable, but Ive taken it 250 times, and I know from experience that the Adare/Limerick route is faster and better!

If you have time for the Beara Peninsula, do it! Its beautiful, but if not, don't worry, its very similar to the topography on the Ring of Kerry and Dingle Peninsula.

Note: if you can enter Dingle via the Conor Pass, do it! You will realise why hundreds of thousands of people find Ireland awe-inspiring!

Le meas/with respect
Stephen McPhilemy
Rick Steves Ireland Tour-Guide
Dingle & Derry

Posted by
239 posts

Thank you both for your input! The bad roads have me thinking that perhaps the route via Limerick with a stop in Adare might be the way to go.

Posted by
2449 posts

Have done both and Stephen is certainly right again. Stop in Adare and absolutely do the Coner pass. It is to me one of the best drives in Ireland. Have driven it five times and it is still stunning.

Posted by
2774 posts

I would listen to Stephen as he is far more experienced than I. There was no tunnel when we took the ferry or at least I wasn't aware of it. We were lucky on timing - drove right onto the ferry when we got there. On the way back we had a 15 minute wait. I thought the ferry ran every half hour but again it's been 10+ years since I was in Ireland. Have a great trip!