Pondering a couple of bases in Ireland for exploring the Burren and Connemara

We stayed in Westport in County Mayo and Clifden in Galway. Both terrific little towns, good food, great live music and close to attractions. Ennistymon in County Clare was also good. Be sure to visit Eugene's pub!
Many people go to Doolin, but that will be busier with more tourists.

Not having a car will restrict your options a bit. Your best option for a central location - one that will give you maximum latitude to explore Connemara and the surrounding area via public transport and day tours - will be Galway. There are numerous tour companies based there that offer excursions to just about all of your points of interest...from the Connemarra loop to the Burren to the Cliffs. The Aran Island ferry has a pickup point in Galway for the trip out to Inishmore, making that an easy day trip too (weather & sea state permitting).
The smaller towns (Clifden, Doolin, etc) are all very nice but frankly wouldn't be good places to base yourself without a car.
You can put together a very nice itinerary by basing yourself in Galway.

Thanks, folks.

Inbsig,

I see you've posted over 500 times but your profile tells us nothing that might help recommend things! You say you did a Vagabond Tour - did you go kayaking, mountaineering, etc? Is that the fitness level you're at, and is cycling around Connemara (highly recommended) something you might be interested in? And do you like B&B, hostel, hotel with spa? What type of accommodation do you prefer?

I disagree with another poster about staying in a bigger area. I'd say pick a small village (Leenane, perhaps?) and explore the less touristy areas..... but it depends! Let me/us know what you're into, and we can help with tips!

Susan
Expat living in Waterville, Ring of Kerry/Skellig Coast

Hi, Susan,
Thanks for your response! Although it was the Vagabond company, it was actually a Driftwood tour that I took - a modest amount of hiking. However, I do kayak, and do some fairly rugged hikes from time to time (a Vagabond tour might have been a better fit for me, actually, but would still have been faster than I prefer, hence my question). I was glad to read that you think a smaller place would be preferable to the big city as a base; I feel the same way. I've read that Ballyvaughan is accessible from Galway by ferry or bus. It also appears to host a lot of Burren hikes and other outdoor activities (caving? kayaking?). I did do a day trip to the Aran Islands, but once again felt starved for more time, so if I ever went again, would want to stay at least overnight. Biking around Connemara sounds lovely - thanks for putting that thought in my head! Any further details would be most welcome.

Inbsig,

I stayed in The Leenane Hotel AND Delphi Resort last August. Delphi is a sports oriented resort, with hill walking, cycling, kayaking and more.... They have a hostel but it's next to the four star hotel, so though I stayed in the hostel (cheap) I hung out at the hotel and ate and drank like a queen!
I cycled the area (I brought my bike but they have lots to rent out) and would have kayaked if I had more time. It's actually very geared towards school groups in the winter, so the hostel is crowded during the school year but pretty deserted in the Summer!! Almost everyone I know in Kerry has been to this resort as teenagers in school!! My only complaint was it had no wifi. And I mean NO WIFI. They say they have it, but every employee admitted it never works (it's surrounded by mountains). I went to Leenane Hotel one day for dinner, and decided to do a night or two there for a change and to have the internet (I was working sort of!).
Leenane Hotel was fantastic! Where to start? Beautiful old grand hotel. Rooms small but overlooking either a mountain or Killary Harbor. Spectacular (do the Killary Fjord boat cruise. I've done it in rain and sun - it's really worth the time for the views....). The most amazing this about this place is the seaweed baths! I'm not into spa stuff at all but.... it's the only seaweed baths in Ireland that use SALT WATER in the tub..... I was in heaven. I would have done one the next day if I had time..... THAT is what a seaweed bath should be! The food here, too, is fantastic.
From Delphi I cycled to Louisburg and back - here you'll find an amazing book store! I think one of the best in Ireland.... From Leenane Hotel I cycled to Kylemore Abbey..... it's beautiful cycling!
You can actually get to Leenaun from Westport or Castlebar by BusEireann - it's a crazy long roundabout way. I'll see if I can discover a smaller private bus service, there like LocalLink or something! And look into BlaBlaCar as well..... used reguarly in Ireland and England!

For anyone reading this that WILL have a car - the little family run gift shop in Maum/Maam (there's a sign about photography gallery.....) is a joy! Locals, run by the dad and daughter, small but you know your money is going to a fine family instead of some big conglomerate! The dad is the photographer and an avid hillwalker. Talk to him about walking!!!

Leenane has a really nice hillwalking festival in the summer. One of my guests from the USA went - she said it was beautiful but did comment that the locals walk VERY much faster than she preferred......

Susan
Expat in Waterville

Just up the road from Delphi is the Doolough Famine Memorial, located in a remote valley that evokes scenes of the Scottish Highlands. Google it to see what happened there - it really presents the history of the famine years in stark relief - and if you plan to rent a bike to tour the area it might be of interest.