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Planning 3 weeks in Ireland - need itinerary help

Hey all! Taking my adult family on a 3-week trip around Ireland/Northern Ireland, flying in and out of Dublin. I have created an itinerary focusing on culture, history, UNESCO, food and photography (Blarney is an "obligatory" stop) and would really appreciate any feedback. I need advice as to how realistic it is and what I should tweak. Thanks so much.

Day 1-4: Dublin (sleep in Dublin 3 nights)
Day 4: Rent car, Cashel (sleep in Kilkenny)
Day 5: Kilkenny (sleep in Waterford 2 nights)
Day 6: Waterford
Day 7: Dunbrody Famine Ship, Cobh Harbor (sleep in Kinsale 2 nights)
Day 8: Kinsale (sleep in Kinsale)
Day 9: Blarney, Muckross House (sleep in Kenmare or Killarney 2 nights)
Day 10: Ring of Kerry, Skellig Michael
Day 11: Slea Head Drive, Dingle (sleep in Dingle 2 nights)
Day 12: Blasket Islands
Day 13: Loop Head Cliffs, the Burren (sleep in Galway 2 nights)
Day 14: Galway
Day 15: Aran Islands (sleep in Clifden)
Day 16: Sky Road, Connemara (sleep in Derry)
Day 17: Derry, Antrim Coast (sleep in Portrush)
Day 18: Antrim Coast, Giant’s Causeway, Carrick-a-rede, Bushmills (sleep in Belfast 2 nights)
Day 19: Belfast Day 20: Valley of the Boyne (sleep near Dublin airport)
Day 21: Return car and fly home from Dublin

Posted by
12 posts

Three weeks in Ireland sounds like Heaven. I hope you have dry weather. That's makes a huge difference.

I am assuming you have never been previously, so if I insult you, please forgive me.

You mentioned culture, history, etc. Don't forget music. Traditional Irish music can be found in many pubs and some of the performers are fantastic, playing multiple instruments, even if they are unknowns.

Driving a rental car is the only way to go. However, a warning - I'm sure you know they drive on the left. That takes getting accustomed to, especially if you have a manual transmission, but general competence comes fairly quickly. The thing to realize is that you will have no sense of positioning versus the centerline. THAT does NOT come easily. Concentrate on that. Especially on narrow roads, it is very easy to believe you are missing head-on collisions very narrowly when, if fact, you may not be. I have seen more tourists lose their left side mirrors to hedges or telephone poles than I care to remember. So focus on your position within your own lane.

From your sleeping plans, you seem to have a preference for large cities (Dublin, Belfast, Derry) unless you are just referencing the general geographic locations. Maybe you have a large family that can only be accommodated by hotels. But B&Bs are everywhere and I highly recommend them. Whether great or only fair, they are an experience in themselves.

You also seem to like islands. Maybe you are fishing enthusiasts. But island hopping can eat up time and they are generally small with limited attractions. I hope no one gets seasick easily. Remember, you won't get to them on a stabilized cruise ship. Personally, my one experience (one of the Aran Islands) was plenty.

When in Dublin, think about visiting Trinity College and seeing the Book of Kells. Nearby St. Stephen's Green is very nice in good weather. A side trip worth considering is to Trim Castle, largest of the Norman stone castles, used in the film Braveheart.

I'm not sure why you want to go to Cashel and then double back to Kilkenny. I would go to Kilkenny first (try to fit in the park at Glendalough along the way), then Waterford, then Cashel, before heading toward the Cork area. I have personally never liked the Cork City area. On the way to Cashel, maybe look in Carrick-on-Suir for a small crystal factory from workers who broke away from Waterford. Years ago we were able to enter the actual glass blowing area. (No OSHA in Ireland.)

On the SW coast, consider spending a night on Bantry Bay. Also, Bantry House is famous for its gardens. Between Bantry and Glengarriff, a drive inland (maybe 45 minutes?) will take you to Gougane Barra Nat'l Park. If the weather is good, it needs serious consideration for a 3 or 4 hour visit.

If you Drive the Ring of Kerry, drive counter-clockwise to avoid getting stacked up behind all the tour buses. The all go clockwise (or they did - maybe check on this.) If you sleep in Kenmare, I really liked the An Bruachan B&B. Coming into Killarney, Ladies View is a famous scenic spot. Killarney is (or was) the tourist mecca. Music and pubs galore. Whether you are religious or not, see the carved altar in the Franciscan Friary. Be prepared for dim lighting for photography. Muckross estate gardens are good and Torc waterfall is a 1/2 mile hike away.

Consider the route to Galway through Limerick (a lot of history) and Bunratty near Shannon airport. Home of the fully restored and furnished Bunratty Castle (Cheap daytime tour. The evening medieval banquet is pricey but the entertainment is very fine.), Folk Park and the world famous Durty Nelly's pub. B&Bs galore in the area.

I believe the Loop Head Cliffs are also known as the Cliffs of Moher. The Cliffs of Moher are a MUST see.

Running out of characters. More in another message.
A general comment: In my opinion the two most scenic counties are Wicklow and Donegal.

Posted by
12 posts

Picking up from previous comment...

The Burren is rather barren. Not a pun. You have to like that kind of scenery. Some might say the same about a lot of Connemara. Just personal opinion. You decide.

I'm amazed you don't seem to include County Donegal at all. Donegal town is fun. Glenveigh National Park ranks very highly with me. The Slieve League cliffs are even higher than Moher, but not as sheer. If you drive to see them, STOP at the first car park if you value your life. It is not immediately obvious, but the second car park can only be reached by following a very narrow (bi-directional!) road right on the cliff side with no margin for error and nowhere to turn around. STOP at the first car park. The walk is only 15 minutes.

Be aware you need to change currency for Northern Ireland. The Giant's Causeway can be a bit of a letdown. The causeway itself is short, extending not far into the water at all. But surrounding it is a great trail through bright orange cliffs back up to the visitor center. You have to be fairly fit.

Carrick-a-Rede is unique. The blue-green water surrounding the destination island provides spectacular photo opportunities. Just realize you are paying just to stand in line and cross a rope bridge. Have more than one camera in the party so everyone can be filmed on the bridge. The destination island is grass, maybe an acre in size with no structures. Consider bringing a picnic lunch if the weather is good.

In my opinion the two most scenic counties are Wicklow and Donegal.

I hope some of this was helpful. Enjoy your visit.

Posted by
5 posts

Hello,

I am currently planning a honeymoon in Ireland also and have posted a similar topic! Maybe we can share some of our research together! I am ending in Ennis/Shannon, but starting from Dublin, so we will be doing a lot of the same places/things! PM me if you'd like! I am going next June/July.

Posted by
255 posts

Last year we did a similar trip in 24 days to the one you are contemplating: no islands but with 5 whole days in Dublin. Even with 24 days we felt rushed everywhere. We very much agree with the time-related comments from poster kmryan. Looking at your plan, here is our input.

The average driving speed you will achieve on many of the older, country roads in the West may be lower than you expect. We averaged 70-75 kph (45 mph). Also, think about the amount of time you will really spend at stops. Except for the islands, sounds to us like you will be waving at sights as you pass them. We easily spent half the day at Cliffs of Moher. Suggest you build in some slack for your time estimates and then see if it is all still achievable. There’s no way we could have finished the Ring of Kerry plus Skelling Michael in one day to our satisfaction. Ditto for one day driving from Belfast to Dublin with a stop at the Boyne. We spent a whole long day in the Boyne area looking at the battlefield and then Knowth/Newgrange (amazing!) and Hill of Tara. That said, it's all wonderful and you will enjoy as much as you do get to see. Have fun.

Posted by
9371 posts

One resource you might check out in planning your driving times is www.viamichelin.com. They will show you alternate routes, if available, and you can adjust the route to include places you want to see along the way. Add 25% to their time estimates to get a more realistic idea of how long it takes to get somewhere in Ireland, and remember that their estimates do not include ANY stops. You will, no doubt, want to stop to take pictures, see attractions, have lunch or whatever. Personally, I think you have too many things planned for the time you have. Everything will take longer than you think.

Posted by
2 posts

The cliffs I was referencing are not the Cliffs of Moher, they are on Loop Head, which is also in County Clare. I read about them here: http://www.aswesawit.com/irish-cliffs. And yes, the viamichelin website will come in handy, so thank you.
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I've tweaked my itinerary some and dropped Kinsale in favor of a little more time on the Dingle peninsula. I've also dropped the Blasket and Aran Islands and added Donegal. Sadly, I'll have to leave Wicklow for another visit.
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Here is my new 21-day itinerary. I need help with where to stay and how long to remain there. Thanks, everyone!
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Dublin (sleep in Dublin 3 nights)
Rent car, Irish Famine Ship @ New Ross
Waterford - Viking Triangle & crystal
Kilkenny
Cashel, Blarney
Muckross House, Killarney NP
Ring of Kerry
Skellig Michael
Dingle
Slea Head Drive, Connor Pass
Loop Head Cliffs (sleep in Galway 2 nights)
Galway
Donegal
Derry
Giant’s Causeway, Carrick-a-rede, Bushmills
Antrim Coast
Belfast
Valley of the Boyne
Return car at Dublin Airport