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Overwhelmed with Ireland planning

Hi everyone,

I have been thinking about going to Ireland for a while now, and just booked plane tickets yesterday... for early May. I'm a planner, so this feels very last minute to me and I'm a bit nervous about it. I don't have anything specific I want to see, so that makes it harder.

My father and I are landing in Dublin and will have 6 nights total. I mainly want to see the beautiful scenery of the country - the rolling hills, the cliffs, the meadows, the small friendly towns, etc. My past Europe trips have included a lot of cities, and I'm much more into nature now- hiking, bicycling, etc. Would one night in Dublin suffice before renting a car and exploring the country side?

I did get the Rick Steves' Ireland book and have started reading it, but am very overwhelmed with all the options. From what I read so far, I believe I'll skip the north on this trip, but that's pretty much all I can figure out! There are so many cliffs and castle ruins and rings to drive around!

What would you suggest for the best "typical" experiences if you only had a short time in the country?

Additionally, my father's one request is that we rent a bicycle for a day- he does about 50 miles a day regularly, so he's a pro. Has anyone ever explored on a bicycle, and if so, is there a best place for it?

I'll appreciate any tip you might have. I know this is very early on, even though it feels like I'm late to the game, so I'm sure I'll have more specific questions soon. Thank you!

Posted by
8880 posts

Keep narrowing your focus to a geographic area that holds the most interest to you and explore that area well. Don't try to do cover too much ground.

Posted by
459 posts

Julie, I would do Dingle, Kenmare, the Ring of Kerry, and the Beara Peninsula for what you have described. Maybe hire a private tour for one day for the Ring of Kerry so you can relax and view the scenery and hear stories of west Ireland. Waterville, Portmagee off the RofK are also pretty cool. https://www.wildatlanticway.com/home/ http://www.bearatourism.com/bearaway.html
https://www.ringofkerrytourism.com/#vhome http://portmagee.ie/ http://www.kenmaretaxitours.com/home.html here are some links for you, times a wastin!!

Posted by
3561 posts

Its too bad you booked flights into and out of Dublin. The Shannon airport probably would have suited what u want to do, since the west coast side is more what you describe you want.

So, don’t try to cover a lot of ground in 6 days. Head to the Wicklow mountains and maybe south from there.
I don’t know about any bike stuff, but there is a regular poster on here that might. She is inIreland and lives in Waterville. Perhaps she could help.

Posted by
9221 posts

It’s a small island in reality and you can get from Dublin to Dingle in 5 hours without stops. HOWEVER, Ireland is all about slowing down.

Don’t be overwhelmed. You’ve gotten the book. That’s a plus.

I’ve been there 3 times in the past 25 years. Still not seen it all. So in answer to your questions...
1.) yes, one day/night in Dublin is fine. Book of Kells at Trinity college would be my only “must see” but it is an extremely popular attraction nowadays. My first visit when Reagan was in office we walked right in. Maybe 20 people. So research the website about tickets.
2.) personally I like picnicing or at least sitting with a coffee watching the world go by in St. Stephen’s Green.

I’d rent a car a leave early the following morning for Glendalough and the Wicklow Mountains. You’ll know why you came to Eire when you see Glendalough.
Maybe Powerscourt if that’s of interest to you and Dad.
From there over to the Rock of Cashel. From there to Kinsale for the night. ...sorry bit of an emergency I need to tend to right now...will come back to this...

Posted by
359 posts

So wish you could have flown in and out of Shannon. However if you are truly tired of cities you can use your day there to good effect as a base. Just north is Newgrange - the 5,000 year old (older than the pyramids) burial mound. It's awesome. Then on your way out to get to what you describe as what you want to see....... totally second the idea of going through the Wicklow mountains to Glendalough. It's not a long drive.....and is spectacular. The monastic ruins and lake hikes are utterly magical.

Then to do the things you want .....you do not need (or want) to go cascading all over the place to see them. Concentrate on just a couple areas and don't waste time with one night stays and driving all over. You end up experiencing FAR less.

Some great options.......Ring of Kerry.....side note GREAT bike riding and rentals at Killarney National Park on the ROK. pedal past lakes, gorgeous scenic views and medieval castles. Just awesome. The only place to really avoid staying on the ROK is the city of Killarney. It's a tourist laden sea of McDonald's and Holiday Inns. For great larger towns with plenty of restaurants, pubs, trad music and access to things consider Kenmare or Waterville. For a small town right at the heart of a ton of great things...with pubs, restaurants etc but nit as many..... consider Portmagee, or Castlemaine.

Near Portmagee you have within 30 minutes for example....boat access to Skellig Michael, beautiful Valentia Island, the Cliffs of Kerry (far better then the tourist overrun Cliffs of Moher), two amazing ringforts at Cahersiveen, Castle and Abbey Ruins on beautiful Ballinskellig Beach, horseback riding on the beach or up into the MacGilkucuddy Reeks (mountains), being in an Irish speaking preserve, being in a UN dark sky preserve with insane night skies, great pubs and restaurants, hiking options that would last a month and sea kayaking and bike rentals all over. That's just one wonderful part on the Skellig Ring/Ring of Kerry. Why drive all over Ireland when it's right there.

In the time you have I'd quick check out Newgrange near Dublin. Then on you way west stop in Glendalough ....then head out to a place like Portmagee, Waterville or Castlemaine. From there relax and enjoy the ROK/Skellig Ring and maybe go up to the Dingle Peninsula for a day and see Slea Head and that wonderful area.

Most of all soak in Irish history, scenery and culture. There is enough in those spots to fill a month of exploration. Don't try to see everything....you can't and trying robs you of the very real magic that IS there. Interact with the amazingly nice people, explore yourselves...we are always finding hidden gems that are far better than running all over to a so called must see.

Have a great trip. Keep the scope narrowed....don't regret the "missed" thing or sight at all and enjoy amazing wild Ireland ! And don't be overwhelmed....keep it simple......and its going to be GREAT !!!!

Posted by
25 posts

We’ve been to Ireland twice in the last three years, the good news is that the whole country is beautiful so no matter where you go, you will enjoy it!

Six nights is not a lot. As gorgeous as the Ring of Kerry/Dingle etc is, getting there and back to Dublin sounds way too rushed. I would suggest concentrating on the areas closer to Dublin. Howth is a pretty fishing village that you can get to from Dublin via public transportation. Glendalough and the Wicklow Mountains are outstanding, they were a highlight of our last trip. From there, consider heading to Kilkenny, such a charming small town. Then either head back east and hit Waterford (love this old hotel and their breakfasts with Irish whiskey! http://www.granvillehotel.ie/en/), and continue up the coast to Dublin, or hit Rock of Cashel and maybe Kinsale (one of my most favorite places in Ireland). Plan on another trip via Shannon airport to enjoy the beauty of Western Ireland.

My husband works for an Irish company and is heading there in April for a meeting. His colleague has planned bike excursions, here are the links:

http://visitwicklow.ie/activities/ballinastoe-mountain-bike-trail/

https://www.dublinmountains.ie/recreation_sites/ticknock_mtb_trails/

Enjoy your trip!

Posted by
9221 posts

And I’m back. Apologies.

From Kinsale your destination is going to be Dingle. I’d stay 3 nights in Dingle. In this area between Kinsale and Dingle is the Ring of Kerry, Killarney National Park and Muckross House, Portmagee, Cliffs of Kerry, Gap of Dunloe, ( now that’s a bike ride..I didn’t do it but between my hiking and driving up, over, and through it saw the same cyclist...however that was a November trip when I saw very few vehicles or people, May will be more populated), Inch Beach. Past Dingle is Slea Head.

This part of western Ireland is my favorite spot on the island. From Dingle to Doolin for 2 nights then back to Dublin.

Make use of Google Maps Satelitte and Street View to see why I suggest these towns and route.

Be sure to get the smallest vehicle possible and ALL the insurance. Slow down for sheep, lorries, bicyclists, hikers, walkers with their dogs, etc.

Lovely country, lovely people. Don’t rush.

Slainte!

Posted by
29 posts

This is already so helpful, thank you so much everyone.
I’m now thinking that after the first night in Dublin, we’ll get the car, go through Glendalough and drive to the southwest region. It seems that this area has everything I want to see.
My question now is, should I split my time between Kenmare and Dingle, or pick one as a base and drive from there? From what I’ve read so far and the suggestions received, I’d relly like to drive the Ring of Kerry and see the cliffs, hike the Gap of Dunloe and bike the Dingle peninsula loop. So either 2 nights in each place or 3 total in this region and then move on to another place for the last 2 nights. Because we have to go back to Dublin to catch our return flight, I’m thinking that we’ll be able to see the Rock of Cashel on the way back, with a stop in Kilkenny for the last night.

About the Cliffs of Moher- will I see enough amazing scenery in this area to make up for the fact that I won’t get there? Or should I cut time here to spend a night there?

Oh how I wish I had more time to plan this!

Posted by
359 posts

Either option is great as far as where to stay and for how long. A place like Castlemaine gives great access to both Dingle and the ROK. Just another thought.....but 2-3 in Kenmare and or Dingle is great.

As for Moher.....you will see lots of stuff FAR better than Moher in the scenery department and it won't be overrun with tourists and souvenir shops like Moher is. Moher IS beautiful but hard to enjoy the way other spots are. The Cliffs of Kerry which you will be near and easily be able to see are far more enjoyable. Plus the scenery in the Glen and above Caherdaniel on the south side of the ROK......far better. And Dingle with Slea Head and the Blaskets are insanely beautiful. Don't regret Moher.....it's pretty but you'll see far better and it certainly isn't worth the drive.

Have a ton of fun !!!!!

Posted by
62 posts

While you're in Dublin, definitely tour Trinity College and the Book of Kells. The Cliffs of Moher were awe-inspiring, but you'll be able to see spectacular sites when you go south. Plus, the Cliffs are clear across the country and you want to spend your six days wisely. If I had to choose between CoM and Trinity, I'd choose Trinity College - it boggled my mind! All those books and history! You can save the Cliffs for next trip...
For a "typical" experience, try to take in a night of trad music. Take your time, talk to the locals, maybe have a pint (or not if you don't drink) in a pub.
We look forward to your trip report!

Posted by
1878 posts

Do you want to spend the first night in Dublin just for convenience, or do you also have an interest in seeing Dublin? I don't think it's that convenient if just for that purpose. You might be able to take a direct bus to other towns, if you choose. I don't think it's worth it to spend one night in Dublin just because that's where you are flying into.

Dublin is worth two full days, very worth a visit, and better to do at the end. Based upon your preferences, might want to look into a direct bus from Dublin airport to Kilkenny, or even Ennis in County Clare. You have six days and the first will be a jet lagged throwaway, more or less. If you really want to start with a night in Dublin, the idea of going to the west coast does not make a lot of sense, with the better part of two of your remaining five days getting there and back. Sorry to be so negative, there is actually lots in the vicinity of Dublin that is worthwhile. I might consider taking a bus from the airport to Kilkenny, wonderful town (my wife and I there in May 2016, and also in 2002).

Six nights is not much, unless you do the cross country part on the day of arrival, I suggest focusing on Wicklow/Kilkenny/Trim area. As you research it, you will find that there is more than enough to fill the time you have in this area. If you do decide to spend some time in Dublin, the archeological museum is spectacular, and Kilmainham Gaol is a must-see for the history. Not to pile on, but Shannon airport would have served your purposes much better. I say this because it might benefit others viewing this thread.

The hype says you must go to Dingle, but really you can have a nice visit on the eastern to central section of the country too. Rock of Cashel, Cahir are also great places to visit without going all the way to the west. The weather is better in the southeast, too.

Posted by
119 posts

I did a similar trip last year (in and out of Dublin, but I only had 4 days). I agree with a previous person on this thread that I wish I had known to fly into or out of Shannon instead of in and out of Dublin (next trip I'll do that).
We covered a lot and did a southeast loop. I do wish we made it out to the scenic west (perhaps Killarney or the Kerry peninsula to do the Ring of Kerry), but we were too short on time. If you don't mind driving, you might like to head to the west.
Our trip had one night stops for each of the 4 nights and we drove directly to Cashel from the airport in Dublin (not too bad, a few hours). We enjoyed the evening in the town of Cashel and toured the Rock of Cashel in the morning and then headed down to Kinsale (via Cahir and part of the scenic Vee Drive). We spent the afternoon and night in Kinsale and the next day we drove up to Kilkenny for a stop. Day 3 was a drive from Kilkenny to Dublin, via the beautiful Wicklow Mountains and Glendalough. The Wicklow Mountains and Glendalough was our favorite part of our trip because it was so beautiful and peaceful. We drove through these mountains (on those narrow roads). I think we took the route through Sally Gap for the amazing scenery. There are many places to pull off the road and walk around. Finally, we spent one day in Dublin. We had to plan it out carefully to make the most of our short time and to do a somehwhat ambitious driving trip. It wasn't too hectic of a route. I felt that we spent quality time in each place (even if it wasn't a lot of time).
If I were to make one change, I would have eliminated Kinsale to instead do Killarney National Park or the Ring of Kerry instead (but I say that hestitantly because I really did enjoy Kinsale.)
Tough choices to pick and narrow it down. We decided that we wanted to see castles and some countryside. Kilkenny was a great town with a great castle. The Rock of Cashel is so beautiful and I enjoyed the little town. Wicklow/Glendalough provided the scenery for the trip.
Have a fun trip!