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May 2023 Trip Report

Here’s a very terse summary of our May trip. Had one day of wet weather, otherwise shirt sleeves, and wishing I'd brought shorts. Forgive the emphasis on bars, but music is our top priority – good trad music almost everyday - 17 out of 20. A far more exhaustive and personal report is available here.

Day 0/1 – US PacNW to Dublin, drive to Belfast. Visited Drominskin Tower, McHughs Bar

Day 2 – Belfast. Visited Big Fish, Titanic Experience, Mourne Seafood, CS Lewis Square, McHughs, Henry’s Bar

Day 3 – Botanic Gardens, Ulster Museum, Crumlin Gaol, McHughs

Day 4 – Belfast to Portrush. Rathlin Island landing trip, The Dark Hedges

Day 5 – Portrush to Dunfanaghy. Dunluce Castle, Giant’s Causeway, Dunseverick Castle, Derry, Inch Wildlife Reserve, An Grianan hill fort

Day 6 – Dunfanaghy. Horn Head, Lurgabrack Forest, Glenveagh NP, Ray Church, The Workhouse

Day 7 – Dunfanaghy to Donegal. Assarance Waterfall, Glencomankille, Cloghanmore Tomb, Sleive League, The Reel Inn

Day 8 – Donegal. Donegal Abbey, Donegal Castle, Walking Tour, Salthill Gardens, Famine Graveyard, The Reel Inn

Day 9 – Donegal to Westport. Fairy Bridges, Glencar Waterfall, Devil’s Chimney, Knocknarea Hill, Knocknarea Church, Porterhouse Bar

Day 10 – Westport to Clifden. Connemara NP, Clifden Castle, Sky Road, Omey Island, Lowry’s Bar

Day 11 – Clifden to Galway. Ross Errilly Friary, Kilbannon Church, Spanish Arch, The Crane Bar

Day 12 – Galway to Doolin. Galway Walking Tour, Athenry Castle, Coole Gardens, McDermotts

Day 13 – Doolin. Black Head Lighthouse, The Burren, Fanore Beach, Cliffs of Moher boat tour, Killallae Church, Court Tomb, McDermotts

Day 14 – Doolin to Dingle. Vandeleur Walled Garden, Conor Pass, Nellighan’s Bar

Day 15 – Dingle. Gallarus Oratory, Riasc Monastery, Blasket Center (Basket landing ferry canceled), Cashel Murphy, Dun Beag, St. James Church concert, John Benny Moriarity’s Bar.

Day 16 – Dingle to Belfast. Rock of Dunamuse, Ha’ Penny Bar

Day 17 – Belfast. EPIC, Kilmainham Gaol, Museum of Art Gardens, Brazen Head afternoon session

Day 18 – Belfast. Book of Kells, Little Museum, St. Steven’s Green, Iveagh Gardens, Dead Museum

Day 19 – Back to Pacific Northwest

Posted by
2280 posts

I have enjoyed reading your extended report along with all the pictures. You covered a lot of ground and managed to find so many hidden gems too! An Grianan is amazing and I really enjoyed my visit to Ross Errily Priory. I seem to remembwer neither were that easy to find either...

I'm intigued, where is the ruined church on Day 9 ?

Posted by
741 posts

In researching the question, I found we might have been on the Knocknashee hill, not the Knocknarea. The Knocknarea Hill looks to be Queen Maeve's Grave, which we didn't visit. Sorry for the confusion. I'll correct the blog.

Lavagh (Court) Friary. We got there just after a burial, which explained the large parking area.

Posted by
7937 posts

We spent most of May in Ireland, too, and it was definitely warner and drier in than expected for us, too. Your quick review certainly show you packed in lots of sights, and opportunities for great Trad.

You clearly started your trip in Belfast, but did you actually finish the last 3 days in Dublin, not Belfast?

Posted by
741 posts

We flew in/out of Dublin, and we made the short drive to Belfast on the day our flight landed (despite conventional wisdom recommending against it). I find driving on the left fairly easy, and when I did the math of an international drop-off fee or somehow avoiding parking a car in Belfast for three days, I chose the lowest cost solution.