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Ireland Trip Report: City bases/hotels, food (Part Two)

CITY BASES: The tour started in Ennis. This is a delightful small town. We took the bus from the Shannon airport to the Old Ground Hotel. We sprung for an upgrade (very modest charge) to insure we would have a king-sized bed for our recovery night. Our room was spacious and lovely in every way. This is a excellent small hotel. We ate at the Poets Corner pub that is attached and had one of the best meals of our trip. The tour provided a dinner at the attached Town Hall restaurant and it was equally good. We wish we had arrived two days early to explore Ennis as you really don't have any time there on the tour itself. We met a couple from California there who were driving themselves to various locations using Ennis as a base and seemed very happy with that choice. In Dingle we stayed at Castlewood House. This is a sublime B/B with every amenity you could desire. The specialty breakfasts items were all cooked to order. Dingle Bay is scenic but the town itself is very touristy. Three nights there seemed too long. Even in April there were throngs of tourists visiting the small shops and restaurants , all with higher prices because it is a tourist destination. Even the "pub culture" seems somewhat manufactured for the tourists. We are not able or willing to stay up until the "wee hours" so we missed out on that particular kind of tour bonding.
On our own we toured the Crean Brewery in Dingle. It was a short walk and is a small business, but it was nice to be out of the tourist zone at bit. For 5 Euro you get a pint and a self-guided tour.
The tour then had three nights in Dublin at Cassidy's Hotel. It was a big disappointment, and many tour members expressed their dislike of this hotel with us. I know that RS tours have other hotels they use in Dublin, and they all have to be better than Cassidy's. Tiny room, double bed barely bigger than a twin, tiny bathroom, dusty,dirty room with stained and battered furniture. We don't mind small or outdated but we do care if its clean. Really nice staff, but because it is a hotel used by so many tour groups I think standards slide because they know they will be fully booked regardless of the state of the rooms.
FOOD/ENTERTAINMENT:
Group meal at the Old Ground in Ennis was very good. It was at the attached Town Hall restaurant.
Group meals in Dingle were mediocre to horrid. Our first meal was at a B/B owned by one of the RS guides. A chef made us a "picnic" meal of cold cuts and soup. The desserts were very good. We did not do the distillery tour/ tasting listed on the itinerary but did get to taste some whiskey before dinner. Two young musicians performed for us. They were superb and seemed authentic. Our second group meal in Dingle was at a "seafood only" restaurant. Since we can't eat seafood we took the vegetarian choice. It consisted of a a variety of melon-ball size scoops of various cold vegetables and a small scoop of also-cold couscous. Except for a small tray of bread there was no first course. They ran out of desserts so had to substitute with other choices. It was a very quick meal as I expect they wanted us out to serve other customers. We had meals on our own at two other pubs in Dingle. Not memorable enough to recall their names.
Our final group meal in Dublin was at Le Bon Crubeen. (Crubeen are pig's feet). The food was okay. We appreciated the complimentary wine. We ate on our own in Dublin at the Italian Connection located just next door to Crubeen. It was one of the best meals of our entire trip. It is a very small restaurant so you might want to make a reservation. Reasonable prices and exceptional food.
Onto the finale Part Three if you aren't already bored to tears.

Posted by
9420 posts

Not bored at all! Good, honest, helpful info. Thanks!

Posted by
239 posts

I agree with Susan, not bored at all. I am so surprised that you found 3 nights in Dingle to long???? Everyone on this site seems to rave about Dingle and they paint it as almost being "magical." Again, I have to wonder when they visited Dingle. Right now we are on the Big Island of Hawaii and we are both shocked as to how touristy it has become. We were here years ago and remember how wonderful it was then. Before this trip I would have recommended the island based on how I remember it but after being here for two weeks I would say find another island...unless you enjoy crowds.

Posted by
1097 posts

I'm sad about Dingle, if your representation is accurate. We were there last in February 2005 and the pub culture was most definitely not fabricated. We had very ... interesting ... experiences with the locals (and some pirates!).

I have since feared the "Steves-ification" of the little peninsula, though. I probably will not return unless again in the off-off-season.

Posted by
1172 posts

We had such a different experience last summer... feels like you are talking about a whole different country

We did drive on our own though and planned it all ourselves... maybe that is what is different

Posted by
15087 posts

It's a shame this was your experience on this tour. I took it last October and my experience was completely different.

Except for the guesthouse we stayed at in Dingle, I really liked the place. Our first meal was at the same B & B as you , which was where most of our group stayed, but I remember the meal as being fine. The next two nights were on our own and lucked out finding two good places. We wandered away from the waterfront and found a pub that was filled with only locals. Everyone was friendly and luckily the town was not crowded at all.

In Dublin, we stayed at the Davenport--the first time a RS tour stayed there--and it was very nice. I liked the hotel and location and I plan to stay there on my return to Dublin. Our guide, Joe Darcy, did a great job, and his two choices for our included meals in Dublin were very good.

The guides can make or break a tour. They also have a lot of leeway in where the group eats. You need to make sure the RS tour office knows of your feelings.

Posted by
3 posts

Re: City Bases - I wholeheartedly agree with your account of the hotels in Ennis and Dingle. They were perfectly charming in different ways. I’m not sure how manufactured the pub culture is. I suppose if the town is 50% tourists then the pubs would reflect those numbers but still I found locals who were happy to share their evening with tourists. Dingle Town is small and situated amongst some of the loveliest landscape you’ll find (IMHO). The fresh air is indescribable. Now, the Dublin hotel… great location but could probably use some updating.

Re: Food/Entertainment – As a fan of seafood there is nothing like eating fish direct from the source and I thought the food at Out of the Blue was fantastic. However, if you’re not into seafood I can see where the vegetarian option may have left you wanting. Sorry to hear that.