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Ireland October 2015 Trip report with reviews

I was over on another board asking questions about a future trip to Scotland, when someone's comment made me realize that some here might be interested in the trip my sister and I took to Ireland last year. This will be long, but I hope it will be helpful.

Some overview information: Neither of us had been to Ireland before. We had friends who had been the year before and they checked in on facebook to every place they went, so I went back through their posts and used many of their ideas. We also did the same so that our friends and family at home could 'travel' with us, and so that I'd have a record to help me remember the trip. We agreed that the itinerary we used allowed us to see a lot of the country, though we didn’t hit everything, while we didn’t feel like we were racing from site to site.

We left DFW on 9/30, and flew through Heathrow. I've been through airports all over the world, and I found the Heathrow connection incredibly stressful. We were told to get in the wrong line through customs and found it very hard to figure out where we were supposed to go to get our connecting flight.

We spent our first two nights in Dublin before setting out on the road. We stayed at the Fitzwilliam Townhouse. It was in a good location, but was extremely basic. I'd prefer to stay somewhere just a bit nicer. I love taking the hop on-hop off bus tours to get my bearings in a new city, so we got a two day ticket and used that as our transportation for the most part. We both agreed that our favorite site in Dublin, and possibly on the whole trip, was Kilmainham Gaol. I would tell anyone not to miss it. We also really enjoyed the Trinity College tour and seeing the iconic Library.

We enjoyed all the the places that we ate. Some of the highlights are Matt The Thresher, Butlers Chocolate Café, and Doheny Nesbitts.

On October 3rd we picked up our rental car and headed out into the rest of the country. At the car rental agency we made a last minute decision to add a mobile wifi hotspot to our rental. I believe the cost was $20 per day, but we both believed that it was worth it and will now always choose this option. This was a small device that we could use rather than using the international data plan on our phones. We went over the international data limit very easily before we had the hotspot. We had lots of friends and family back home that really enjoyed our facebook updates, so this helped us be able to post a lot. The hotspot charged in the car while we were driving, then we could throw it in a backpack to carry with us when we were walking around sites or towns. The service was very good and I don’t think there were many places that it didn’t work. I was even able to use Periscope, which is an app that will live stream video to your followers. However, it was made clear to us that it would not work in Northern Ireland, and it didn’t. The signal died just within the border, so while we were in the part of the country we were really missing it.

Our first stop was Waterford where we toured the factory. The café there was a great place to eat while we waited for our tour. After that we headed to the Rock of Cashel, which was in competition for our favorite site. We had intended to try to drive on that night, but it was a Saturday night and we were having trouble finding a place at our intended destination. So we got a last minute room at Ashmore House B&B in Cashel. The rooms were very basic, but a great value for the price. We walked to dinner that night in town, then had a perfect Irish breakfast the next morning.

On October 4th we started with a tour of Muckross House, where we agreed that Mr. Darcy had to be just around the corner, then a drive through Killarney National Park to Lady’s View.

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That night we splashed out on a night at Ballyseede Castle Hotel. Our friends had stayed there the year before and based on their pictures we knew we had to try it. The price ended up not being as bad as I was worried it would be. We ate dinner at the hotel restaurant, and it was a wonderful, relaxing experience. The crème brulee I had for dessert was literally the best I’ve ever had.

On the 5th we walked around Dingle, then set out to drive the Dingle Peninsula. Made a point of driving the Connor Pass, which was a bit nerve wracking but a great memory. We spent that night in Kilrush at Hillcrest View B&B. Nice clean rooms.

Our first stop the next day was the Cliffs of Moher. Definite must-see. After that we headed up toward Northern Ireland. We were heading toward the Belleeck Pottery tour, but weren’t sure if we would make it. I thought the driving this day would take forever, but it really wasn’t bad. Being from Texas, we’ve driven 2 hours to go to an event then returned home the same day, so I guess that conditioned us to make these drives OK. I’m sure some people would have wanted to go slower, but it worked for us.

We spent the night in Ballyshannon at Elm Brook B&B. Consistent with the other places we stayed this was clean, well priced, with a delicious breakfast.

Our first stop on the 7th was the Bushmills Whiskey Distillery. Neither of us are whiskey drinkers, so we couldn’t even finish our samples at the end of the tour. But we enjoyed it none the less. After more beautiful driving, we stopped at the Giant’s Causeway. Definitely a must see!

We spent the next two nights at Shelleven Guest House in Bangor. We had a room on the bottom floor with a very large bathroom. It was nice to have a couple of nights in one place as my sister started feeling unwell. Shelleven was within walking distance of the train station into Belfast as well as places to eat for dinner. My only quibble is that the owners seemed just a bit fussy. Since my sister was sick I brought all our luggage in and the owner made a point to ask me not to rub my backpack along the wall. Since I’m a grown woman that doesn’t damage property intentionally, I was a little irritated with the comment.

We walked past Bangor Harbor to get dinner, and this is where I wish I could include pictures with this review. It was absolutely beautiful. The next day we took the train into Belfast. We again used the hop on-hop off bus to get an overview of the city and as our transportation. The only place we got off was at the Titanic Museum, which was very well done. Dinner that night was back in Bangor at The Rabbit Rooms.

October 9th was our last full day in Ireland. This was about the point in the trip when we were starting to be ready to go home. We have decided for the trip we are planning now that we will limit it to 10 days. We left Bangor and head South. We stopped at Knowth and Newgrange. Our home this night was Highfield House in Trim…highly recommend. We didn’t have time to tour the castle there, but we did walk past on our way to dinner.

On the 10th we flew to London where we had an overnight layover. Unfortunately we didn’t have time to take the hop on-hop off bus here, so we just went down to Westminster and walked around a bit. Back to the hotel early for a very early wakeup call then on to home.

It was a wonderful trip with lots of great memories. I’m happy to answer any questions.

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10 posts

Thank you for this. It's extremely helpful as I am planning my vacation this September.

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17 posts

Thanks for this as well!! I actually had a question - I've currently booked two nights at Ballyseede, but then also booked the Greenmount House in Dingle, figuring that I wouldn't want to be driving from Tralee to Dingle unnecessarily. Was it worth it/a bother adding in that extra drive back and forth to Dingle? I've also gone ahead and booked a night at Ashford Castle too, to get that "castle experience" so figured that would cover it as well. Just curious on your opinion! Thanks!!

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Peggy, I think it really depends on how comfortable you are with the driving. I didn't think it was that far from Ballyseede to Dingle. I looked it up to check my memory and it was about an hour, which sounds right based on what we experienced. I think you could use it as your base for the Dingle Peninsula. We absolutely loved Ballyseede and are planning another castle hotel stay when we go to Scotland this year.

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2825 posts

Nice trip report. FWIW, the Greenmount House is one of my favorite B&Bs ever. Lovely place with wonderful views.

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409 posts

Howdy,

I'm an ex-Austinite living on the Ring of Kerry, and at first i thought (you being an aggie lawyer!) that you were my friends that visited last year! But your itinerary was a bit different.

Thanks for that tid-bit on your hotspot - but i have another suggestion for anyone that might see your post. American cell phone service is a rip-off - no other way to say it. When I first came, I 1) unlocked my cell phone by calling Spring and saying I wanted to use the phone in Europe. 2) My 2nd day I went to a cell phone store in Ireland (Three.ie) and bought one month of unlimited data with a new SIM card for 20 euros. Yes, 20 euros for unlimied date and texting. I used the maps and facebook and twitter and set up Skype Phone (different from Skype) and had NO problems using the iphone map, google maps, trip advisor maps, etc. So - a less expensive choice than your hotspot, but in my case my american number didn't work while I was in ireland).

My friends stayed at Ballyseede castle too - I joined them for tea and then dinner. What an awesome choice! I recommend it constantly!

I'm disappointed you didn't see the Iveragh Peninsula!! (Ring of Kerry) but keep us in mind for the next visit! ;-)

Thanks,

Susan

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19 posts

Howdy Susan!

Unfortunately we had to make a choice between Kerry and Dingle and Dingle won this time. We will definitely do Kerry next time.

Posted by
9371 posts

While a hotspot can be a wonderful thing, $20 a day seems a bit extreme. There are a number of places where you can rent a hotspot at a much lower price rather than rent it from the car rental place. The same is true of GPS - it's cheaper to buy one and take your own. As for the phone, one of the most common bits of advice here is to change out your SIM card and use a local one, both for calls and data. That's what I do every time I travel, no matter what country.