I am planning itinerary for March and know for sure we are doing one night in Dublin then going to Donegal for 2 nights after doing Giants Causeway, Carrick Rope bridge and castle in Northern Ireland. My next stop is where I am getting tripped up! I was thinking of going to Galway and staying a night before heading to Aran Islands for two nights. Or should we go to Blasket Islands instead? My husband likes the nature stuff but also wants to experience the locals, pubs and food as well. Which area would give us the best of both worlds before heading back to Dublin? Thanks in advance.
Posted by
Vermont USA
359 posts
Okay ....it's a big topic. First are the general areas. Galway/Connemara apparently how you would approach the Arans. Then Dingle for the Blaskets. Then there the islands themselves.
First the islands......they are completely different experiences. Arans are populated and have small stores, pubs and restaurants. The Blaskets just have a little spot for tea and scones and no year round residents.
The Blaskets allow you unfettered access to the island, insane scenery, history, quiet since few people are on the island at any time. Wandering the abandoned homes, connecting to a small extent with the lives and culture of this incredible place, seeing the remoteness .....for my wife, adult daughter and myself was honestly one of life's great days. The boat ride out filled with dolphins, seals, minke whales and basking sharks and a incredibly interesting, fun unpretentious captain was utterly incredible. That being said.....you have to be into this, it's not for everybody. There are no pubs, restaurants or shops....its a deserted island only accessible by zodiac boat transfer just off the island......it's touching history.....real Ireland though for those who want to deeply connect is unmatched.
The Arans and I'm mainly talking about Inis Mor are much more tourist oriented.. The Dun Anghosa fort is spectacular with cliffs FAR, in my view, more wild and pretty than Moher. A pony cart, bike ride or guided van tour is well worth it. There are excellent pubs and some shops. The Pub at town center has incredibly good fresh soups and bread. It's a wonderful place to visit. There is though an underlying sadness to the place. Tourism runs the place. You are bombarded on landing by crowds and local men pushing you to go on a cart/bus/van/taxi ride and shops selling typical leprechaun-y nonsense or "Aran Wool" made in England or elsewhere in Ireland. (If you want REAL Aran made wool items there are a couple nice small shops at the foot of Dun Anghosa). Our landlord there, a former fisherman, opened up to us in near tears talking about having to become a van driver to survive..... "begging" from tourists and being forced to do "unmanly work" as opposed to honest fishing. That does pervade the place though many visitors are blind to the death of real island life and culture. It's well worth it....it's spectacular......but if you have a soul there is a sadness and you feel a bit like your contributing to it. Still worth visiting.
As for the areas. Dingle is far and away my favorite over Galway but I can see why others might disagree. Single offers the pubs, restaurants, shops and boat tours that are fantastic but the drive out Slea Head to Dunquin is beyond words. And if you want to explore the peninsula there is PLENTY to see and do to fill two days with ease. Galway is a pretty, nice big city. Not being a fan of overwhelming tourist congestion and busy life I can do without. Much of the surrounding area is very pretty and worth seeing and Connemara has a beauty that while not remotely as incredible as Dingle is absolutely stunning it's beauty.....one of our favorite areas.
As in most things it comes down to what you like and want. Great thing is you won't go wrong with either choice.........and never regret slowing down as you seem to be doing and soaking in an area. It's FAR FAR better than racing around trying to see everything.
Have a great trip.......and since you are going in mid March check carefully accessibility. The Blaskets might not even be a feasible option then......and passage to the Arans is VERY weather dependent.
Posted by
OP
21 posts
Well I looked up Blasket because that is so us and all the boat trips I read on do not start going there until April so that pretty much rules that out! Maybe next time if there is one. However I did want to see Dingle peninsula. Do you think we would have enough time? How long to do the whole peninsula? Also do you recommend any other towns or things to do on way back to Dublin from Dingle area? Think we will save Aran islands for another time unless we do a day trip before Dingle? Any thoughts? You have been very helpful!
Posted by
Vermont USA
359 posts
The Dingle Peninsula is great for flexibility. You can tailor it from one to multiple days. From Dingle Harbor they may be doing the harbour Fungi tour in March which is fun.....an exceptionally friendly dolphin. I think the name of a pub harborside is the Marina and they had spectacular seafood chowder and a daily harbor catch special that my wife loved.
The Slea Head drive is of course available and is Great in any weather. This year we drove it three times showing it to different family members. One day was lashing rain at times and 50mph gusts and it was awesome. The seas against the cliffs were towering. We had the place virtually to ourselves and it was a dream world. The other two Sun filled days were spectacular as well. That drive out and back from Dingle easily be done in an afternoon. Keep going to Dunquin ...... it's worth it......with great close views of the Blaskets......you'll see settlements easily. Doing the rest of the loop....seeing the Gallarus Oratory, the pre Celtic stone settlement, the wonderful small town of Ballyferriter, the Blasket Island Visitors Center and if you're up for it Connor Pass with great views. You can indulge as much as you like getting it done in a day or lingering a bit. If any of the home .....literally home .....bakeries are open by Dunquin ......stop.....the food is incredibly fresh and good and served by the sweetest, nicest fun Irish speaking folks you'll run across. My wife complimented her porter cake and was dragged back into the kitchens to learn !!!! One of my wife's favorite memories.
There are many many things to see and do there on Dingle. It can be done a bit rushed in a day but can be stretched EASILY and really enjoyed.
As for things to see on the way back to Dublin. My favorite by far is a detour into the Wicklow mountains.....seeing Sallys Gap and the Wicklow Mountains (where Braveheart was filmed) on your way to the monastic ruins at Glendalough. One of the most haunting beautiful spots in Ireland. So pretty....the settlement itself and the short walks by the lakes....scenic doesn't do it justice.
One other spot while in Dublin .....if you can see Newgrange, try to....it's easy to get to and to go into the burial chamber ....older than the Pyramids is incredible.
Hope some of this helps. Others will have great ideas to. Have fun !
Posted by
France
408 posts
Even if you can't go to the Blasket Islands (because of timing or sea conditions), the Blasket Islands visitor center on the Dingle Peninsula provides a sobering and interesting lesson on isolation and emigration, especially its effects on the areas sending their youth to a new world.