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Help with 2 week SW and W Ireland itinerary

So far, for our May trip, the plan is:

Trim (1 night)
Kilkenny (1 night)
Glengariff (4 nights)
Liscannor (4 nights)
Dublin (2 nights)

But I'd also like to see a bit of the Conmerra peninsula before driving back to Dublin. Thinking about the Hawk Walk at Ashford Castle. I have one night that is not yet accounted for and could also reallocate a night from the Glengariff and Liscannor reservations I've already booked.

I thought about Westport but is that needlessly north? Suggestions?

Posted by
2159 posts

Chris,
I have not been to many of the cities you list, so I cannot advise re: those. We traveled Shannon to Adare, to Rock of Cashel to Kinsale (overnight), then up thru Dingle, Kenmare, etc. to Dromoland Castle (two nights), then to Doolin (one night), then thru The Burren and Galway up to Connemera (beautiful) to Ashford Castle for two nights (a must experience...and definitely do the Hawk Walk), then to Tubercurry to meet/visit family (and travels to/thru County Roscommon to see family sites). Then before flying out of Shannon we visited The Bunratty Folk Park and stayed at the decent, but more basic Bunratty Castle Inn right outside the gates to the folk park (taxied to the airport the next a.m.)

But, if you are up for a bit of a splurge, definitely stay TWO nights at Ashford Castle. They offer some nice two-night packages. Book the Hawk Walk ahead. Staying two nights allows you to enjoy the castle and the grounds without rushing off the next a.m., and it would be a do-able drive to Dublin the final day (or I think you could also take a train from Galway, if it would work to turn in your car there).

Ashford is truly spectacular and now one of the top hotels in the world. It has new owners since we were there about six year ago, and it has gone under a total enhancement......it was truly wonderful prior to that, but I can only imagine how extra wonderful it is now!! A very special place and experience! If you stay, I recommend one of the corner rooms overlooking both the lake and the main entry bridge

Sky Road in the Connemera region is listed in National Geographic's 500 Journeys of a Lifetime book, and it really is beautiful. Kylemore Abbey is a lovely place to see for a stop during the day while in the region.

Enjoy your trip!

Posted by
187 posts

Hi Maggie,

Thanks so much for your thoughtful reply! Interestingly, last night, I was at a house concert for Irish music and the couple who performed has a pub in Dingle! Based on her suggestions, I decided to rework my itinerary a bit to include 2 nights in Dingle (she said she'll email me all the best places for trad music during my stay!) and scratched the idea of seeing Conmerra as biting off too much to do in one trip. (Constantly fighting my American tendency to race all around when I travel.)

But now I'm feeling a bit sad after hearing your endorsement of it! Oh well, next trip I suppose :) However, I do still really want to do the Hawk Walk so I'll figure out a night in Galway I think. Ashford Castle looks amazing, but unfortunately a bit beyond my budget.

Posted by
509 posts

Hawk Walk, you won't regret it. We used it as an excuse to spend the night before in charming Westport (vs. the very out-of-budget Ashford Castle), but that would take you perhaps farther north than necessary. It's a memorable experience worthy of keeping in your itinerary.

Posted by
187 posts

Thank you! Yes, I may reconsider Westport. I think an afternoon doing the hawk walk, walking the grounds and enjoying lunch or high tea will be the next best thing to staying at the castle! ;)

Posted by
2159 posts

Chris,
Good to hear you are adding the Dingle area.......incredible area!!! You will love Connor's Pass.

For a Hawk Walk, Dromoland Castle (which is relatively close to the Shannon Airport and not terribly far from Liscannor) also offers the Hawk Walk. While Dromoland is not nearly as grand (in size and decor) as Ashford Castle, it is still beautiful and high-end. You could email them to see if they offer it to people not staying at the hotel (as Ashford does). The grounds are not as vast as Ashford's, but still a lovely place to enjoy the activity. And, while there, you could have lunch at the little restaurant that offers outdoor seating overlooking the walled garden, which is truly beautiful. Not a stuffy place to dine, so I would not hesitate to have lunch there in the same clothing worn for the hawk walk. We met the head gardener (just by chance) when we were there, and she took us around and into the small greenhouse (which is not normally open to visitors).

It really is beautiful in Ireland, and sounds like you have received some good advice. Just like you, were were not able to see as much as we would have loved to see, but it is also important to have some down time, too (as we did with a few two-night stays). Really hope to return some day.

Safe travels!

Posted by
3562 posts

Hi Chris,
Regarding Maggie’s comment about Dromoland not being stuffy......I would have to disagree. While I did not stay there, I did go to look and explore and even peeked in the dining room where folks were having dinner. If waiters in tuxes, a harp musician playing the harp and guests dressed to the nines is not stuffy, I don’t know what is. Glad I checked it out, but it cured any desire to stay at a castle!!
I do second her endorsement of Dingle however!

Posted by
2159 posts

Chris,
One last thing to share. IF you to get up to Ashford and combine the Hawk Walk with lunch.....dining in the castle gets you "in the door." But, if you want to do coffee or tea there, there is at least one pub in Cong (we actually walked there from Ashford early on eevening) that offers typical pub food at not outrageous prices. But, in my opinion it would be worth the bit of extra cost just to be able to "get in the door" and walk around Ashford Castle while inside.

And, yes, Ashford's prices seem to have really increased under the new ownership. We had a two-night package when we stayed there, and then they gave us a complimentary upgrade to a Deluxe room for our two nights. Our breakfasts and one dinner was included, so we chose to venture into Cong (which is not large) by foot early that one evening.

At the time we were there (and I have no idea what they do now), they were changing non-guests to come across the bridge during certain hours. But, if you have a confirmed booking for the Hawk Walk, and you would want to book ahead just get a spot, I would GUESS that would grant you admission without an additional cost (and likely the chance to walk into the castle part as you check venues to "decide" if you might want to dine there for lunch). Disclaimer: I really do not know current procedures, though, as our stay was 6 years ago. When we stayed at Dromoland, I do not recall seeing any non-guest fees.......but it does not have the same draw of tourists as Ashford does.

Posted by
2159 posts

for Diveloonie,
Please re-read my posting. I wrote that the place to dine at Dromoland with seating outside overlooking the walled garden is not stuffy!!! It is a separate building at Dromoland from the castle itself. A very relaxed place people can stop in after biking (as we did), fishing, walking, etc. It's been a few years now, so my memory is a bit fuzzy, but I think I recall it is right near where guests check out bicycles, etc......so you can get the picture....closer to the activity center (translation: non-stuffy attire).

We did not dine at the cafe overlooking the walled garden at Dromoland in the evening (IF it is even open at night), but I would guess a more dressy casual would be appropriate, whereas in the main dining room coats/ties were advised for gentlemen at evening meals, but no one threw out the group of men in sweaters and no tie with sports jackets on top. But, had someone shown up in the main dining room at night with jogging clothes, another option likely would have been suggested. While truly more formal........our Dromoland breakfasts were served as the two waiters removed the antique silver domes from the plates at the same time....truly grand...felt like royalty for a bit of time :) While we did not dine there, I think I recall there was a pub-type sandwich option downstairs in the castle, too....maybe with a dungeon name? I was in jeans the mornings of our silver-covered breakfast presentations, and I was totally comfortable and did not feel out of place at all. Ditto for Ashford Castle breakfasts.

But, even high-end places like Dromoland and Ashford realize guests do not always want to stay dressed up for meals and offer very comfortable options for jeans/walking shoes. When staying at places like that, we will pack a tie for him, but he wears the same chino slacks and same loafers as he does during the day. He likes wearing an old sports coat boarding/exiting planes; (he likes the extra inside pockets), so that comes along, too. But, it is definitely an old one....we call it the travel sports coat, and it can get kicked around in over-head bins and in luggage without our worrying more than hoping it will stay in one piece for the next journey :)

Posted by
14 posts

We did an Ireland trip in October, same length. We also left out the Connemara, because of time constraint and because we didn't want to spend all our time driving around.
Our schedule: Land in Dublin, rent car and get out of Doge. Driving in Dublin is nutso.
Drove straight to Kilkenny on major highway. Allows plenty of stress-free time to adjust to "wrong" side of road. Two nights. Just 90 mins. drive Two nights.
Visited Cashel (a must) and drove to Kinsale, also just a few hours. Two nights.
Three nights Dingle after another short drive.

Then 2 nights in Galway, which we regretted. Mind you, Galway is fine, but the long drive and congestion not worth it. Took the ferry across the River Shannon to get there and that was great.
Then drove on "interstate" equivalent back to Dublin, dumped the car and took cab into Dublin for 3 day stay.

If we did the same trip again, we'd spend another day each in Kinsale, Kilkenny and skip Galway.

Then take a 2nd trip to visit Galway, the Connemara region, northwest, Roscommon and Leitrim (because my family from those two counties).

Posted by
187 posts

Thanks! It does sound like a similar trip. I've booked just one night near Galway so I can spend the day doing the Hawk Walk and tea at Ashford Castle and then drop the car and train back to Dublin. But is the drive up to Galway horrible then?

Posted by
2159 posts

If you are asking about the drive from Galway to Cong (where Ashford Castle is located), it is approximately and hour (but I would call it an hour and a half), IF you do not take the longer route thru the Connemera Region.

If it were me, if you were thinking about coming from Liscannor to then stay at Galway, then drive to Cong that next morning do your activities at Ashford, then head to back to Galway to turn in your vehicle and catching the train to Dublin................INSTEAD (if the train departure times from Galway allow), I would suggest driving on up to Cong, staying someone in/near there that night, the next a.m. do your hawk walk and tea at Ashford (book the walk in advance), THEN drive back to Galway in the afternoon to catch the train to Dublin (again if train schedules allow)

If you can swing two days in Cong, the first day you could drive from Liscannor (have lunch in Galway...the Key Street area is cute), then drive up to the Connemera region (taking the longer route), then stay overnight in/near Cong for TWO nights, enjoy your Hawk Walk, tea at Ashford, lunch or dinner at a pub in the village of Cong, spend the night, then head down to Galway late morning, catch your train to Dublin.

Staying in Galway would work, but just two road trips in the same day to get to Cong and back.

The other alternative would be to book the Hawk Walk at Dromoland Castle, which is not as far from Liscannor (during one of your four days there), then drive on up thru Doolin (see the Cliffs), The Burren, on to Galway (stay a night there), visit Key Street area, then head on to Dublin the next a.m. by train.

No real "right" or "wrong" day to do it, just a matter of how packed you would want your Hawk Walk day.