A solo trip to Ireland and Scotland (two busy weeks in each) in 2022 went off the rails when I broke my humerus but I’m determined to get back on the train to just Ireland this time. I’m more interested in slower travel and less busy tourist spots as I’m older and less interested in crowds although for some sights it is inevitable. For example I will see the Book of Kells but not the Blarney Stone - I’ve learned what I prefer. Instead of one or two nights stays in places, I will stay three or more to allow for day tours in between local exploring - I’m open to using a good base to travel to sites. I find B&Bs/AirBnBs a better fit for accommodations in this case. I am definitely NOT driving and I am happy with train/bus travel. I am interested in museums, art galleries, castles and being outside to experience nature especially flat walking - climbing not so much. I enjoy food and drink - night life is not a priority but some Irish pub with music will be on my list. At this point in my travels I don’t need to visit the must-see places to check off a list but I do acknowledge some of these are amazing. If the Cliffs of Moher are a must see then that advice is welcome but if an easy alternative is available I might prefer that. I appreciate all suggestions from those more experienced in travelling Ireland. Also I hope I’ve given enough information to present my travel style without sounding like a picky older traveller. I have both Irish and Scottish DNA so I’m very keen to see this beautiful country. Thank you.
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Bellingham, WA
1673 posts
I assume you'll fly into Dublin. I would give Dublin 5 nights because there are lots of good museums to see there. The Book of Kells is one of the sights that you have to book in advance, so make sure you are familiar with that process. Maybe also EPIC. You could probably do a search of this site for which places require advance booking.
I am a big AirBnB user (and former host), but Dublin is a city in which I stay away from short-term rentals (due to the housing crisis) in favor of purpose-built apart-hotels (such as Zanzibar Locke or its partner Beckett Locke) or a budget hotel like Point A (recommended on the Forum).
Here is a map of the Irish train system:
https://www.seat61.com/reference/Ireland-map.pdf?dl=0
Otherwise, you're on the bus. You can see that the trains basically fan out from Dublin.
On my last trip, I stayed several nights in Cork, from which I enjoyed a day trip by train to Cobh, which was nearly dead in March, might not be quite as dead in October? I also tagged along with my friend to Blarney. I didn't kiss the stone, but I did enjoy the beautiful ruined castle and the gardens, such as they were at the end of winter. It's an easy bus ride from Cork. In Cork, I like the English Market, especially the Farmgate Cafe upstairs, where you can see the beautiful architecture. Lots of good food in Cork and music at Sin é.
If you're a W.B. Yeats fan, Sligo is his hometown. Even if you're not, it's a nice town, outside of which (and accessible by city bus) is the Carrowmore Megalithic Cemetery. There are nearby beaches, as well. From Sligo, you can get to Donegal Town fairly easily, riding in a bus mostly along the coast. Donegal itself is nice enough. I stayed in Killy Begs, which I really liked. Access to the Slieve League cliffs from above and below (on a boat ride) was pretty easy.
I really like Derry, but it has become touristy. Maybe not in October. The Museum of Free Derry and the Bogside Murals (with or without a guide) are fantastic. Also, walking the city walls (again, with or without a guide) and the Peace Bridge. Quay8 is an affordable hotel in the city center with small single rooms. Derry is also easily done as a day trip from Letterkenny in Donegal or from Portrush or Coleraine, from which you can visit the Giant's Causeway, which is VERY touristy but also worth seeing IMO.
In the middle of the country on the train line is Athlone, which is on my list to see for its lakeside location, castle and old pub. Also, nearby Clonmacnoise monastic settlement.
If you can narrow your DNA to a particular place in Ireland, I encourage you to go there. A good way to access smaller places without a car is to either take a bus to the village center or hire a taxi from the closest town large enough to have taxi service. I have done this by pre-arrangement and by just having a hotel desk clerk call for me.