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Planning a 2023 return trip to Ireland and want to mostly stay off the beaten path. Has anyone visited Eyeries and driven Beara peninsula? This would on our way to Kinsale/Cobh.

Posted by
2680 posts

We spent a week not far from there near the village of Ardgroom.

The Beara Way hiking circuit loops around the peninsula and has numerous access points for short and pleasant day hikes. Can pick up maps and a wealth of other information at the TI in Castletownbere.
The cable car over to Dursey Island is just up the road from Eyeries. There are nice hikes there too - both on Dursey Island itself and around the point near the cable car station.
There's an abandoned famine-era village tucked away in the center of the peninsula called Cummeengeera that we enjoyed so much that we went there twice. It takes some getting to however since the starting point for the short hike into the remote valley starts at the end of an unpaved (but well-graded) farm road where there's also an ancient stone circle called Shronebirrane. The village has an interesting history if you want to google it, and the reward for hiking the 1.5 mile trail to get there is to emerge into a scene from Brigadoon - the place looks like it was deserted only a few years ago rather than in the 1860's.
The drive over Healy Pass will be memorable for the views - it's really spectacular - but be prepared for narrow roads and some white knuckle places all around the peninsula. Worth it though.
Beara is terrific and worth several days of your time. Tour buses don't go out there so it's a much more mellow experience than the ROK.
Be aware that some of the trails can be boggy even if it hasn't rained recently so do bring a pair of waterproof boots if you're considering hikes off the beaten path.

Posted by
2 posts

we are going to the Beara Peninsula in May 2023 for my son's destination wedding. Staying 3 days at Mossie's B&B near Adrigole. Hope to spend some time hiking in the area.

Posted by
1186 posts

Hello from Wisconsin,

Now you have hit a great place in Ireland! Beara is my favorite peninsula in Ireland. Ring of Kerry is designed for busses. Dingle is crowded. We stayed at an old B&B outside of Eyeries and had one of our most memorable evenings walking the shore picking rocks.
Be aware, Beara is small.
Not so far away is Gogane Barra and St. Finbarr's oratory. It is in a nice valley. Easy to be close to God with these surroundings.
Also in the neighborhood is the Black Valley near Killarney. It too is beautiful especially toward evening as the sun slips behind the 'mountains' . Skip the city of Killarney, hard to imagine how many nic-nac kitsch is made and apparently sold.

Oh, to be back in Beara...
wayne iNWI