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Dublin to Dingle for the impatient

I'm beginning to pencil in plans for a brief trip to Ireland in July 2019, and have questions about the "best" way to get from Dublin to Dingle (or at least near Dingle). For some context...

  • In this case, I define "best" as the following: 1) fastest, 2) comfortable and low-stress

  • This will be our first visit to Ireland, and it needs to be short: just 8 full days (not counting our arrival or departure days). We know we can't see it all, not even the major portion, that's OK, we will be back (fortunately, Aer Lingus recently started flying a nonstop between our home in Seattle and Dublin, so it'll be easy to return).

  • Rick's suggests the following allocation depending on how much time you have: "With just 3 days, Dublin. With 5 days, add Dingle Peninsula. With 8 days: add Galway, Aran Islands, slowdown..." Hmmm. We have 8 days (we arrive on Day 0, leave on Day 9). Based on my (admittedly cursory) research, I'm thinking Dublin, while nice enough as a city, is not the best place to spend precious time. The west coast and the southwest end look more appealing to me, so I'm thinking about sneaky ways to optimize my short time there. Rick's suggested 8-day list of places sounds a bit hurried to me (and I travel crazy fast by the standards of most here).

  • Our flight from Seattle comes in to Dublin. After we do 8+ days in Ireland, we fly out of Dublin (to Edinburgh, but that's a whole other story). We definitely need to be in Dublin the night before we depart for Edinburgh, but I'm thinking that rather than spend time in Dublin at both the start and end of our time in Ireland, why not just arrive in Dublin, then move on to the west coast? Our inbound flight is scheduled to arrive at DUB at 12:30 pm (on a saturday in late June). I'm thinking that we should just head off to Dingle (or thereabouts) immediately upon arrival.

  • We certainly will want a car for getting around the west of Ireland. But I'd rather not arrive off a redeye, jump in a car, and drive off on the wrong side of the road. Note that I have a bit of wrong-side driving experience (UK, Australia, Japan), and I actually expect to arrive off our flight at least somewhat rested (flying business class, flat bed seat = I will get some decent sleep) but I'm looking at alternatives to driving on that first (arrival) day. Looking at ways to get to Dingle, I see the following options - my goal would be to get to Dingle and settled in our lodgings before dark:

  1. Rent a car at DUB and drive all the way. I see drive time estimates ranging from 4.5 to 6 hours. That doesn't sound appealing after a 10 hour redeye (even in business class).
  2. Take the train. If I'm reading things correctly, trains go as far as Tralee (almost Dingle) and that takes about 4 hours. $65-$95. (Does not include the last stretch to Dingle itself.) That seems like a better option than driving.
  3. Fly. Yeah, I know it sounds extravagant, but it looks like there are flights from DUB to Kerry Airport (in Farranfore, near Tralee) and they're actually no more than the train, $40-$95, flight time just 1 hour (again, on the last stretch, still need to get from the airport to Dingle itself). I have not checked schedules and flight frequency, which could make this unworkable, but maybe it could get us there quickly.

After arriving in Dingle, we would pick up a car rental there, do 2-3 days around Dingle town and Peninsula, Ring of Kerry, maybe the far southwest (wife is lobbying for Skelig Michael, I suspect we don't have enough time, we'll see about that), then head north, the obligatory stop at Cliffs of Moher, of course, Aran Islands, then to Galway for a couple days. Maybe drop the car there and train back to Dublin, or drive east and then drop the car. Maybe two nights, a full day in Dublin, then off we go.

(continued...)

Posted by
6788 posts

(...continued)

I'm thinking that by proceeding straight to Dingle right off the plane (which is the longest stretch of any overland travel that we would do), and doing it either by train, or maybe even flying, gets us right to where we really want to be, on our arrival day, safe and relaxed. From there, we would maximize our time in that part of Ireland before heading back to Dublin and onward.

Opinions on this scheme? I could be overlooking something obvious, so this is a reality check. Some specific questions…

  • How hard is it to get from Tralee (end of the train line) or Kerry Airport, to Dingle proper?

  • Of course I'm sure car rentals in Dublin are plentiful. I assume that we could arrange a car rental in Dingle or thereabouts without great difficulty or shocking cost (by comparison) - no?

  • How about dropping that rental car off in either Galway, or back in Dublin? No big drop-off fees?

  • For that last west-to-east stretch, from Galway back to Dublin, train or drive?

I recognize that this would be a fast pace - but it seems the pace wouldn't be quite as frenetic as that suggested by Rick, so that's gotta count for something, no?

Thanks for your input.

Posted by
1366 posts

A cautionary word: the passport control line for non-EU will be quite long at 12:30pm. The SEA and SFO flights arrive almost simultaneously as does an Emirates flight. I doubt that there are car rental agencies in Dingle and if there are any, my bet is that there would be a significant one way drop off fee. There are a couple of agencies in Killarney.

Have you considered renting a car from DUB upon arrival and heading to Trim or similar? Spend the evening there and maybe explore the Boyne Valley the next day on your way to Dingle?

Posted by
6788 posts

A cautionary word: the passport control line for non-EU will be quite long at 12:30pm...

Thanks for the heads-up. What's a reasonable expectation for how long one should allow to get through all the post-arrival airport rituals (passport control, etc.)?

I will investigate car rental options somewhere within striking distance of Dingle.

Have you considered renting a car from DUB upon arrival and heading to Trim or similar?

Yes, but that's exactly the scenario I'm looking to avoid. With our limited time, I'm hoping to reach Dingle on our arrival day (without driving there myself). Remains to be seen if that's possible and practical.

Posted by
1366 posts

I would allow a good hour for passport control. I only do carry on so don’t know how long it will take to gather checked luggage but I would assume it should be there by the time you’re through immigration. Since you’re business class you’ll at least be one of the first off your flight. And who knows, maybe you’ll get in before SFO!

Posted by
8664 posts

Take my post with a grain of salt.

You’ve found and booked airfare from Seattle to Dublin. Even though You only have 8 days to explore,
Slow down. You are on vacation. No need to rush.

Arrive at the lovely Dublin airport and bus to your accommodation in the city. Check in, drop
off luggage and then walk about St Stephens green. Meander along O’Connell street, then out to river Liffey.

If you’ve pre booked tickets go see the Book of Kells and the upstairs library that my book-loving-avid-reader friend wants to be buried in. Have pub grub for dinner and see if you can enjoy some craic. Get some sleep.

Next morning bus back to the airport and take the free shuttle to whichever rental car place you’ve reserved your car from.

Head to Glendalough. Still one of my fondest memories of arriving early before anyone and meandering amongst the headstones and around the Tower. Eerily beautiful and oddly magical. From there make the drive to Dingle.

3 nights Dingle. Time to visit and explore Portamghee, Killarney and it’s National Park, ring of Kerry, Gap of Dunloe and Slea Head.

From here drive to Doolin. 2 nights. Visit the Burren.

Back to Dublin and your flight to Scotland.

Posted by
2822 posts

Might be easier if you reversed the order, ie after landing in Dublin take the direct train (2.5 hrs) to Galway, get a good night's sleep, then collect your car there for your explorations of Connemara and Dingle before returning to Dublin.
Drop your car at the airport and take the Airlink bus into the city for your last night.

Posted by
6788 posts

Might be easier if you reversed the order, ie after landing in Dublin take the direct train (2.5 hrs) to Galway...

That's a good suggestion. I'll take a look at that.

I think I've figured out a way to accomplish my goal (that is: getting to, or close to, my actual destination by end of our arrival day). I've been assuming that destination is Dingle or someplace in that corner of Ireland. But I might be able to make my proposed itinerary work as well by going the opposite direction - going "counter clockwise" - by starting in Galway and then proceeding south towards Dingle after that. Thanks for the suggestion.