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Driving in Ireland for U.S. travelers - how difficult?

Hello - we are planning a trip to Ireland and Scotland for this fall, probably late September into October. Four adults with luggage but no kids or dogs. We will likely fly into Dublin (from Philadelphia), and mostly base our 5 or 6 days there, with side trips, say for example to Cork or other points in the Southwest. As the main planner, I had been thinking to avoid driving and just use trains, and taxis or Uber for shorter hops around town. Understanding the limitations of train service in the Republic of Ireland though, I am wondering if we should take another look at renting a car and braving the roads, if only for part of our travels. By way of background, at least two of us do have experience driving on the left, during more than ten trips to the Virgin Islands and the Bahamas, and we did fine, but that was always with a left-hand drive car. I am a very experienced and competent driver, having driven all over the U.S. including ALL of our major cities, L.A. Freeways, Cross Bronx Expressway, etc., but I'll admit to some apprehension about both driving on the left, and doing it in a right-hand drive car. I'm interested in comments from other people who have dealt with that transition, and how terrifying it was.

Posted by
4375 posts

I was nervous to the point I actually considered a bus tour, but my husband insisted he'd be fine, and it was totally fine! It took him less than five minutes to get over the weirdness. We only got on the "wrong side" once--in the middle of nowhere, so not a problem. We found traffic light and this to not be an issue.

Posted by
196 posts

There is a lack of public transportation outside of the big cities so driving is the best alternative to really see the countryside. Having said that, I found the highways, the cities and rotaries (round signs with arrows in them keep you on the side of the road you belong in) to be no problem but the first day out we were in Cashel & I hit a curb on the left side & blew a tire. Not the best start. After a night in Cork, we headed to the west coast where the roads got really narrow & all I could do was concentrate on driving, missing a lot of the scenery along the way. You are sharing these same narrow roads with trucks & tour buses (who have the right of way; pull over if needed) & I just knew one of these vehicles was going to take me out (didn't happen) but by day 6 we were in Galway & I was so frazzled we took a tour bus to the Cliffs of Moher. Good decision; allowed me to relax & enjoy the scenery.

Best advice: I rented from Hertz at the Dublin airport & the counter person hit me with an upcharge for addition insurance that the mandatory insurance did not cover; windshield, side mirrors & tires. Take it! Hertz paid for the tire but not the service call to get the car to the garage for repair. The per day cost for the additional insurance was not all that much; glad I took it. The Hertz rep told me the most common damages for novice drivers in Ireland was losing a side mirror or a rock into the windshield. I thoroughly enjoyed Ireland nonetheless! P.S I learned to drive in Boston & to this day, I advised people who have never driven in Boston-don't!

Posted by
901 posts

It's not just driving on the left side of the road: it's the roundabouts (how to enter, which lane to be in and how to exit) and incredibly narrow roads with cars parked on both sides. It is so close that the parked cars have their side mirrors turned all the way inward because, otherwise, they will be clipped. Can you shift while driving on the right? Most cars are not automatic. It is a lovely way to see Ireland, though, see off-the-beaten-path jewels, stop wherever you want and for as long as you wish, etc.

Posted by
383 posts

With your prior experience, which is similar to ours, you should be fine. Note that even if you can drive a manual transmission on US car you might still want to reserve an automatic in Ireland to eliminate one obstacle in the transition. In Ireland do watch the narrow roads, spiky hedges and stone walls that go right up to the edge of them! And maybe take out the zero deductible CDW in case any scratches. Finally, you can accomplish a lot taking a car for just even 24 hours, going out and staying one night and coming back the next day. Ireland is amazing, both Dublin and the countryside, but I would be sure you take the chance to see both.

Posted by
6377 posts

We will likely fly into Dublin (from Philadelphia), and mostly base
our 5 or 6 days there, with side trips, say for example to Cork or
other points in the Southwest. As the main planner, I had been
thinking to avoid driving and just use trains, and taxis or Uber for
shorter hops around town.

While Ireland's trains are not up to the same standard as other countries in western Europe, Dublin to Cork is an easy trip by train. And don't even think about having a car in Dublin, or any other major city for that matter. You also don't need to use taxis if you're not up to walking, local buses are usually a good option. Dublin also has a small tram network as well as local trains.

Posted by
59 posts

Thank you all for this good information. I will have to look in to costs, and that information will help with our decision. I have no problem driving a stick, just never did it with my left hand. Actually, years ago I served some time as a valet parker, so can pretty much drive anything. I do like the one comment about the wisdom of paying more for an automatic, if only to do away with that added factor. Thanks a lot.
To the gentlemen- Badger- who mentioned the train from Dublin to Cork, am I correct in my thinking that train would leave from a downtown Dublin station? I ask because one thing I had considered was to fly into Dublin and proceed immediately to Kinsale (via Cork). Sure would be nice if you could get on that train at the airport, but I think we'd have to take the shuttle or whatever into Dublin city center.

Posted by
84 posts

My husband, who had previously driven on left in New Zealand, hated driving in Ireland. The roads are very narrow and tall stone fences everywhere, with little to no shoulders. He really could not enjoy any scenery unless we were at a tourist attraction. I think in this situation he would have enjoyed a bus tour better.

In contrast, he really enjoyed driving around the South Island of New Zealand.

Posted by
8667 posts

Get the car.

Have driven the entire island ( Ireland and Northern Island) twice. First time in the early 90’s. Last time 5 years ago. Was born when Truman was in office so you do the math.

In both countries you will drive on the left side of the road. Is it hard? I didn’t think so but you will find it a bit odd to have the steering wheel on the right side of the vehicle. You’ll adjust.

I learned to drive with a stick shift so first rental had that. Rental 5 years ago paid more and got automatic.

Couple of FYI’s:
Take a paper map.
It’s petrol not gas
In Ireland its kilometers. In NI it’s miles.
Be prepared for roundabouts.
Back roads can be narrow and tall hedges often block views around corners.
Obey the speed limits!
Watch out for sheep, lorries, dog walkers and bicyclists.

Its a beautiful country. Travel smart and get all the auto insurance that you can!

Posted by
1366 posts

On our first trip to Ireland 30+ years ago we rented a car with a manual transmission. I don't think we had a choice. Like a PP, on the first day out we hit the curb on the left side and blew out the tire. Unlike the PP, there was a full-sized spare tire which we used and we're on our way quickly - with the help of a nice stranger who had walked by and who we then drove to her destination. I assume we paid for a new tire but don't remember. Now that we're older and our reflexes not what they once were, we rent an automatic. One thing that I personally find helpful is not driving the first day. Just walking or sitting on a bus or taxi really helps me to wrap my head around where the vehicle should be. The other thing to remember, whether walking or driving, is look right. So you look right before you cross the street, before you turn and as you enter a round about. There is no left turn on red (like the right turn on red in the US) and cars in the round about have the right of way. Have a good trip.

Posted by
2367 posts

Also recommend not driving on first day. Drove manual in Ireland and UK and vowed to never do it again as I could not get the hang of it even though I drove manual in the states for years. I would go from first to fourth skipping middle gears now opt for automatic. For traffic roundabouts the passenger would tell me where to get off using a clock as in exit at twelve or three oclock. Worse case just go around again if needed. On the rural roads which may be only car and a half wide the other drivers are super gracious in pulling over to let one pass. Good luck, enjoy and you can do it!!

Posted by
2822 posts

Keep in mind that rental car prices at the moment are extremely expensive - it will probably cost upwards of USD $200 per day for a mid-sized automatic, ie a vehicle large enough to accommodate your 4 adults plus their luggage. I agree with the others that opting for an automatic is the way to go.
Given the very limited amount of time you have in the country this trip you might be better off staying in Dublin and doing a few day trips from there on organized tours rather that driving. There are tours up north to the Boyne Valley and Newgrange, and south to Glendalough and the Wicklow mountains that would make for pleasant days out. If you wanted to stretch your legs a bit using public transport you could visit Kilkenny by train from Dublin (1.5 hrs), Belfast (about 2 hrs each way) and even Galway (also about 2 hrs). The latter two might require an overnighter to make them worthwhile but neither would require a car ... thus baking a $200 per day cost saving into the mix.
Another car-less option would be to look into the express bus service between Dublin airport and Galway or Belfast. Am guessing you'll be arriving in the early morning after the overnight flight from Philly, so why not just keep going after landing and spend the first couple of nights somewhere else, then returning to Dublin once you've satisfied your curiosity about either place.
A final thought: if your heart is set on seeing some of the west of Ireland know that there are a couple of cheap flights per day from Dublin to the Kerry airport near Killarney on RyanAir, one of which departs at 8:55 AM every day - cost is $49 and it only takes about an hour. If that flight meshes with your arrival time it might be a way to spend a few days exploring Dingle and the northern half of the beautiful Ring of Kerry. There are rental car concessions located at Kerry airport that would make it pretty easy to do so.

Posted by
2 posts

It only took us a day to get use to it. However some the narrow roads were a little hair raising especially with a truck coming your way on the other side. It costs a little more but take the extra insurance for the windows and tires. I hit a curb and only scraped the tire and put a little nick in the rim and without insurance the cost would have been $1200

Posted by
565 posts

We also found the adjustment to driving on the left to be fairly quick. I agree with the advice to get an automatic transmission if possible. Also strongly recommend you get the smallest vehicle that will hold your party and luggage (pack light). It's hard to overstate how narrow some of the roads are and you will be glad for a smaller car.

Posted by
509 posts

Another vote for the additional insurance; we bought it and scraped up a tire. There's no shame in multiple laps around the traffic circle until you're sure of the correct exit. Finally, if you encounter a huge tour bus creeping toward you on one of the narrow, curbed roads, look up at the driver. He/she will likely be giving you hand signals (left, right, come forward, etc.). Their mirrors and elevated vantage point give them an advantage and they can be very helpful.

Posted by
6502 posts

I'll be the fifth poster (so far) to report damaging a left-side tire while driving on that side (England in my case, and on the third day). I think we're so freaked by oncoming traffic on our right that we overcompensate. I also dinged the left side door on one of those hedges that might as well be stone walls. Plus terrorized my wife/navigator multiple times as I got too close to the left edge or made a turn into the right-hand lane. I love driving and have lots of US experience, but no more left-side driving for me. I agree with the recommendations to get an automatic shift, and not to drive (on either side) the first day after an overnight flight.

Badger offered some good options to minimize driving for you. I'd suggest the coach (bus) from DUB to Cork, then get the car for exploring in the south, then coach or train back to Dublin. Minimizing use of the car might also give the four of you more flexibility to do different things on certain days, not having to be together all the time. Four adults plus luggage in a car can get pretty crowded.

Posted by
140 posts

I have now made 4 trips that required me to drive on the left. I drive a 6-speed manual every day in the US, so shifting is natural. Using the left hand is a problem. Not being familiar with the acceleration characteristics of the car is another. Thankfully, the pedals are unchanged even though the gear shift is on the other side. I offer the following suggestions when driving on the left.

Have someone else be the navigator. Have someone remind you to "stay to the left" at every roundabout and intersection. As driver, you will be in sensory overload. You need someone to really focus on "lane management."

If using an app like Google maps, set the destination to be a parking lot near your destination, rather than your exact destination. Just pay for the parking. You'll thank me. If you don't, you are likely to find yourself attempting to parallel park a strange car while shifting with the wrong hand and looking over the wrong shoulder. Review the route before you leave. Use the big roads. Otherwise, the route may contain a one-lane gravel road across some farmer's field.

Posted by
1189 posts

Hello from Wisconsin,
You can certainly handle driving on the left side of the road. With the driver on the right hand side it feels terrible uncomfortable when I drove on the right side of the road. You know immediately, you, the driver are next to the ditch.

If you can't handle a manual transmission then you might have a problem getting a car. If you get one, it will certainly be more expensive.

Round-a-bouts...hey they are duck soup. Yield to the right. Period. Yield to the right.

Parking can screw you up as you can park on either side of the street/road. If you do have to park on the 'wrong' side of the road you have to remember when you start the car to get over. And right hand turns are far lane to far lane. Beyond that it is easy.

wayne iNWI

Posted by
4 posts

Couple of tips having just wrapped up a 10 car day tour. YOU can do it. Get the full coverage insurance. Get an automatic. Mind the roundabouts, stay left look right. Designate a co-pilot. Someone to keep an eye on the left side of the road for you. Mind the high curbs...stone walls & hedgerows!! They will get ya :) Use a reputable car rental, a national brand too. Also double...triple ck your cell service. Mine did not work at all for navigating, husband's ( sprint) was EXTREMELY slow. We paid for a low tech Garmin which along w/ good ol' paper maps saved us on many occasions. Enjoy your trip!!

Posted by
901 posts

Regarding the Garmin suggestion: make sure that the Garmin is an up-to-date one. Ours, it turned out was not. It did not recognize a "new" M road that had been in operation for at least a year!

Posted by
683 posts

I've driven in Scotland; rented at the Edinburgh airport, so we could be out of major traffic (heading NW) as quickly as possible. It was a lot easier than I thought it would be, and I felt pretty comfortable after a few minutes. I do think a navigator in the passenger seat, and a GPS, help tremendously--keeping it in the correct lane is easy if you don't also have to think about where to turn.

Posted by
49 posts

I have also honed my left side driving skills in the Caribbean - Barbados, Turks & Caicos and Grand Cayman mostly. We always had a left-hand drive car, until one time in Grand Cayman I got a right hand drive car. Honestly that made it easier if you ask me! Dont be afraid of a right-hand drive car. I get it could be a little trickier if you rent a manual. But I only rent automatics.

I though driving in Ireland was pretty easy.

Posted by
59 posts

Thanks again for all these helpful comments! Much appreciated. The wife and I have a get-together this weekend with the other couple, and we will be making some decisions. Looking at the maps and reading about whether to do and see this or that, I am starting to think that it would make sense for us to have a car, if at least for when we aren't in Dublin. A personal rule that has served me well in life has been something like... "if other people can do that, I can do it." With that in mind, and after reading these comments, I am less worried about the driving. Thanks again.

Posted by
30 posts

I have driven in Ireland and Scotland with a manual. Most recently was in England and drove from Devon to Bath and then through the Cotswolds and to Heathrow over the span of a few days. That time with an automatic. Much less stressful with an automatic. City driving is somewhat anxiety producing, IMO. Definitely preferred driving outside of the larger cities, but then you have the more narrow, hedgerow "lanes" to navigate. A different type of angst comes with that. Watch a YouTube video or two on how to navigate the roundabouts and you'll do fine. The smaller one lane roundabouts aren't an issue. It's the larger ones that are 3-4 lanes that require a little more know-how. Assume they have those in some areas in Ireland. They certainly did in England. I feel your "trepidation" and will be doing the same in the fall.