My original plan was to leave Doolin in the morning and drive to Kenmare where we would stay two nights. I know to add time to what google maps says but it's coming up with 3 hours 7 min and takes us through Limerick. My question is should we take the ferry or should we go through Limerick? And if through Limerick is it far off the route to stop at King Johns's castle? I'm also questioning changing from 2 nights at Kenmare to one night at Ballyseede and then the next day go to Killarney National Park and go through the Gap of Dunloe and then stay just the one night in Kenmare. We haven't booked anything yet but plan to very soon!
Posted by
317 posts
Greetings from county Kerry!
Ballyseede is a beautiful castle hotel with a lovely Irish wolfhound, I'd highly recommend it and then stay just one night in Kenmare. I personally wouldn't stay 2 nights in Kenmare.
Limerick is a better route to go from Doolin to Kerry, but not if you're stopping off in Limerick at King Johns castle. Limerick is well worth seeing, don't believe the hyperbole that its dangerous or theres nothing there, its a very authentic Irish city with great history and wonderful people.
Slainte/good health
Stephen McPhilemy
Rick Steves Ireland Tour-Guide
Dingle, Derry & Dublin
Posted by
OP
6 posts
I'm a little confused. What do you mean Limerick is a better route but not if we are stopping at King Johns Castle?
Also we ar considering one night in Killarney and then one night in Kenmare.
Posted by
Colorado Springs
2829 posts
Can't help you much with Limerick. Been to Ireland half a dozen times but have never been there. Priorities I suppose. Besides, Stephen is very much the subject matter expert here so I'll defer to him on that.
Regarding your route south from Doolin: If you just want to "get there" then the motorway will certainly be your better choice. If you're more into the journey than the destination (and have the time) then I'd suggest the ferry across the Shannon at Killimer. The coastal drive south from Doolin is quite pretty on a good weather day, and we enjoyed the villages of Doonbeg, Kilkee and Kilrush along the way.
Personal opinion here, but I think it would be a shame to be so close to Dingle and not stop off there for a day. The drive out along Slea Head would be worth the detour.
Driving thru the Gap of Dunloe really isn't advisable - the road is intended for local traffic only (I think there might be signage to that effect, though I have seen people do it) ) and is one of the narrowest of the rural lanes you'll ever encounter. Add the fact that between around 9 AM and 4 PM you'll have numerous jaunting cars, walkers, cyclists, etc. traveling the single lane road (with few pullouts) and you'd have the makings of a real traffic snarl. Better to park the car at or near Kate Kearney's and walk it. It's 3.5 miles to the head of the glen (7 miles return) and is a reasonably level track...and one of the prettiest meanders in Ireland.
Killarney town can get pretty clobbered with tour buses in season but mellows out considerable once the day trippers depart in the afternoon. It is a good base for exploring the NP.
Many here prefer the more relaxed ambiance to be found in Kenmare as a base for exploring the ROK.
I always suggest taking a scenic spur off the ROK called the Skellig Ring Road, which starts near the village of Portmagee and winds its way along the Kerry Cliffs. As of our last visit in the summer of '14 the tour buses still didn't go out there, which makes for a pleasant excursion for an hour or so. There are some interesting ruins near the village of Ballinskelligs that are worth a stop - and you'll have them pretty much to yourself.