I am a fan of Rick Steves and have been for what seems like millennia, so when we began planning for our upcoming holiday in Donegal (other than a stop at the airport in Dublin, we will be almost entirely in Donegal), I quickly ordered his newly released Ireland book. I had the 2002 edition, so it was time I get a new one, anyway. However, I was really disappointed to see only 4-5 pages out of the whole book devoted to County Donegal. And worse yet, of those precious few pages, almost all of it centered on Donegal Town. I am certain Donegal offers as much interest as other counties and I'm wondering if there are any thoughts as to where I might find information on further reading, interesting towns, pubs, restaurants, etc? His is not the only guidebook that gives short shrift to Donegal and I realize it is not a highly visited county, but that is where I'll be for the better part of two weeks, so I'm interested in knowing more. Any help is appreciated.
Posted by
Colorado Springs
2980 posts
Suggest picking up a copy of *Back Roads Ireland. which you can purchase on Amazon. We stayed in Dunfanaghy for a week last year, as part of a longer tour of Ireland, and particularly enjoyed the information contained within the book. Lots of great tips on things to see and do in the area.
Donegal is a beautiful area but its charms are subtle.
Suggested side trips would be to Derry - about an hour from Donegal town, and particularly the Ulster-American Folk Park in Omagh. Both fascinating places and worth a day of your time.
Posted by
OP
Washington DC
11 posts
Thanks, Robert - I am ordering it right now! With our family spread out throughout the county, it is just easier for us to stay within Donegal (but, I agree - a side trip to Derry and a few other Ulster locations will be in the cards. Thanks for your advice!
Christine
Posted by
London, United Kingdom
135 posts
Hello Christine
Donegal is beautiful, with a remoteness difficult to find in the British Isles other than perhaps in Scotland or parts of Wales.
I'm a Londoner, but my mother-in-law lived in Dungloe Co Donegal; I got married there, and have been travelling there for holidays for 25 years, so have explored most of the county - loads to do and see, provided that a) you're looking for a relaxed, mainly non-urban experience, and b) the weather stays fair for you - when are you going?
Anyway, some considerations first, before places to see, things to do:
- You need a car. Public transport is almost non-existent in the county - no trains at all (with one tourist exception); an airport that only serves two locations directly - Dublin, and Glasgow; and buses and coaches that only run infrequently.
- By the standards of the British Isles, the county is large and the roads slow, so crossing the county in a car takes longer than you might expect. For instance, Ballyshannon (S) to Malin (N) is 82 miles and may take almost 3 hours; Lifford (E) to Dungloe (W) is about 52 miles but might take 90 minutes; Donegal Town (S) to Dunfanaghy (NW) is 52 miles and might take 90 minutes.
- Petrol (gas) stations are less frequent than they used to be, and opening hours can be erratic.
The City of Derry/Londonderry (a.k.a. 'Stroke City') is not in Donegal (or even in the Republic), but is the biggest, closest city if you need big stores. It also has a train to Belfast, and a (slightly) larger airport.
OK - so now the good news..
The scenery - stunning, almost everywhere. Beaches to die for; cliffs; bays; inlets; loughs; hills/mountains; peat bog/moorland; thousands of acres of nothing - not even cellphone signal! Bliss....Consider Slieve League, but also many (most) other places along the coast. Rossnowlagh beach is a famous surfing beach, but there are many other beautiful 'strands' - Portnoo and Narin; Cruit; Carrickfin (funnily enough, next to the airport! - but not an issue); Dunfanaghy; Portsalon; etc
Also consider driving the Donegal portion of the Wild Atlantic Way
Historical sights (my favourite): Dunree Fort; Donegal Castle; Doe Castle & the area around Creeslough; Fintown heritage railway; Donegal Town railway heritage museum (in a disused station); Flight of the Earls exhibition in Rathmullan; and others
Cultural Heritage: there's culture everywhere in Donegal, but some 'sites' might include Glencolumbkille; Daniel O'Donnell Visitor Centre; Newmills Corn and Flax Mill; Dunfanaghy workhouse; Dunlewey Centre (in the shadow of Mt Errigal the cone-shaped highest mountain in Donegal); Glenveagh National Park estate and castle; Doagh Famine Village (a bit kitsch, but still interesting - and in a beautiful spot). I could go on - and on.
I haven't mentioned the swimming, diving, walking, golfing either; or the music. If you have the time, visit the City of Derry, just over the border; and the various beautiful peninsulas - Fanad; Inishowen; Rosguill; etc
Plenty to see!
Posted by
1 posts
Christine, Donegal is beautiful and well worth visiting! While many visitors rent cars, I prefer taking the bus -- partly because I don't want to drive on the wrong side of the road but also because it is a pleasant way to travel. The buses go everywhere and they've got comfy seats and Wifi (they're like tour buses and not like city buses). Bus Eireann runs nationally and there are regional bus companies too. I've taken Bus Eireann from Dublin (downtown terminal, near the river, has a little cafe; or can get the bus at the Dublin airport) to Donegal Town, then a regional bus out to Glencholmcille.
One quick tip -- if you use the Wild Atlantic Way as a guide (it is a tourist path designation), you should find info. about stops along the lovely Atlantic coast. Search the term and I think you'll find a site or two.
But here's my favorite place and top recommendation: For two summers, I've spent a couple weeks in Glencholmcille taking classes at a center for adults called Oideas Gael ('heritage of the Irish'). Each class is a week long. I took the Irish language classes, which are outstanding, but many people take the non-language classes there: Digital Photography, Hillwalking (this is strenous hiking!), Painting, Weaving, Language and Culture, local archaeology and the environment. The prices are very reasonable and they'll help you find a place to stay. A variety of accommodations in a nice town with a grocery store and a couple pubs, plus a great museum with cafeteria.
See their website at www.oideas-gael.com for the current classes. Americans, Irish, and folks from various European countries take these classes and enjoy the music in the pub at night and the little beach during the day. It's a beautiful valley on the ocean. It is on the Wild Atlantic Way. I think it deserves a week or two weeks' stay, but at the every least, come visit the cottage museum and the beach and hear some music at Roarty's. I think the 3+ hour bus ride from Dublin, and 1 hour to Glencholmcille is well worth the trip! I'll be heading back there in August.
I greatly enjoy my visits to Dublin, but I love being out in Donegal. Hope to visit Cork, Kerry, and Antrim some day too.
Posted by
Utah
455 posts
If you like ancient sites check out Kilclooney Dolmen near Ardara, Beltany Stone Circle near Raphoe and Grianan Aileach Ring Fort near Derry. We stayed in a lovely B&B in just outside Donegal town called Ard na Breatha. The ambience and food were great!