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Donegal

I feel like RS ran out of pages in his Ireland book when he got to Donegal! ;) There is so much to do there, I could spend a week! Alas, I have about three days. While in Donegal, we will spend two nights in Killybegs and two in Letterkenny. Looking for opinions on Horn, Fanad and Malin Heads. Eyewitness travel says Horn is the nicest. Malin is the northern most point (and closest to North America??) Also, we may have to chose between the Doagh Famine village and Glencolmcille Folk Village, thoughts? For those that have been to either village, how much time did you spend? (I know everyone is different, but an estimate helps, and we know we spend longer than most people.)

From Letterkenny, we will stop at Grianan of Aileach Ring Fort and Derry before heading to Bushmills,

EDITED TO ADD:
Our month long trip is in September, all reservations made.

Thanks for any thoughts and suggestions.

Posted by
1194 posts

We've been to Horn and Fanad and can compare them to Malin and Torr next May. We liked Glencolmcille a lot and can also compare it to Doagh next May. We planned an hour and I don't remember falling behind schedule. I appears Doagh has frequent tours that take 35min or so, so we'll schedule and hour there too. We're stopping in Mussenden Monument/Garden which you might want to consider since it's near Bushmills.

Posted by
2369 posts

When is your trip? Are all of your reservations made?

We spent 3 weeks in Ireland this past May, including a week in Northern Ireland. We spent 3 nights in Derry, and while there, we spent a day driving around the Inishowen Peninsula. Malin Head is wild, rugged and spectacular. It's a "do not miss" in my opinion. There is a spectacular coastal walk. It's linear, not a loop. We spent about 1.5 hours at Malin Head doing the coastal walk, taking photos, and chatting with people.

Do not miss Grianan of Aileach Ring Fort. The location is stunning, and it's the only tiered fort in Europe.

If you have the time, I recommend spending a couple nights in Derry. It's a very, very interesting city. We took a 2-hour walking tour with Bogside History Tours that follows the route the marchers took on Bloody Sunday. It was fascinating and sober. Walking the walls is a highlight, too. And we also visited the Free Derry Museum which augments the walking tour we did.

Posted by
8502 posts

Thank you @ jjgurley Any thoughts on Horn vs. Fanad?

Thank you @ kmkwoo, sounds like Malin is a don't miss! Alas, our trip is coming up and I've booked all inns/BnBs. I'm noticing that the Museum of Free Derry isn't even mentioned in the RS guidebook. I'm also noting its not in the DK Eyewitness Travel Guide, either. Sounds like a "don't miss to me". The Tower Museum is in the guidebook. Did you happen to go there?

Posted by
684 posts

Hi Jules M,
Donegal, to me, is the hidden gem of Ireland. I havent' been to Horn Head nor Glencolmcille Folk Village but I have spent a lot of time in the county and Letterkenny in specific (my son lives there.) I think Fanad Head is stunning. Probably one of the prettiest lighthouses I've seen. We went to Malin Head in April, which was interesting in it's own right but I found the Inishowen penisula as a whole more beautiful than Malin Head in particular. If you do go to Malin Head, stop for lunch at Farren's Bar. Good food and friendly staff. The Doagh Village was a last minute addition for us on the way to Malin Head and boy am I glad we went! The tour is fantastic, the houses are interesting but the real show stopper are the beaches all around. If you go, leave time to do a beach walk.
In Letterkenny, have a pint in the Cottage Bar, dinner at Yellow Pepper is very good (the owner is also a partner in Croilthí (Crolly) Whiskey, a great whiskey from Co. Donegal), or the Wee Bar (BrewerBar and Restaurant) is also great for lunch or dinner.

Posted by
8502 posts

Thank you, Kimberly, great recommendations, in particular, LetterKenny. Definitely sounds like Fanad is a "don't miss". Have you spent much time in Derry? If so, your highlights?

Posted by
558 posts

Conical-shaped Mt. Errigal near Dunlewey in far NW Donegal is a magnificent sight not to be missed. It's best appreciated from a southern approach.

Posted by
2369 posts

jules m, the Museum of Free Derry is in the Lonely Planet guidebook and Rough Guides. If you have the time, I highly recommend visiting it. You will learn a lot. No, we didn't have time for the Tower Museum. We would have if we didn't spend a day visiting the Inishowen Peninsula, but I really wanted to spend some time in County Donegal, so I don't regret our decision. I hope you have the time to at least walk part way around the walls. It's a wonderful experience; you see some lovely architecture, some churches, the Derry Girls mural, and a great view of the Bogside.

Posted by
684 posts

JulesM we've been there a number of times. Here's what I would suggest (in no particular order):
1) The Free Derry Museum is an important stop for understanding the complex history of the area. And add on (or do before) a Bogside Walking Tour (we scheduled through the museum.)
2) Across the Peace Bridge (a beautifully constructed bridge across the river) there is an area where they hold concerts in the summer. I'm not sure if there will be any in September but would be worth checking out. It's a "newer" part of Derry.
3) Derry Guildhall is the city hall but also a museum, which gives further perspectives in to this areas troubled and complex history (only takes about 20 mins and is free.)
4) The Cottage Craft Gallery is cute (old traditional cottage surrounded by great coffee shops and lunch spots as well as local craft stores.)

5) Take note of all the murals in the city and not just the Derry Girls mural. They are beautiful in my opinion.
6) Walk the old walls. There are places to see along the way and amazing views.
7) For food, we particularly enjoyed our lunches we've had at The Scullery Cafe (reminds me of a cafe in Bellingham, wa.) Though we haven't yet had a bad meal at any of the places we've eaten.

I'm sure there's more but that's what I can think of right now. Hope this is helpful!

Posted by
8502 posts

@kmkoo, absolutely going to the Free Derry museum, just thought it was odd that RS didn't have it in the list of sites. I'm a history buff and interested in learning more about the "Troubles", and also,I just loved The Derry Girls.
@Kimberly, how reassuring! I pretty much plan on doing your list with the addition of RS's Bogside walk for the murals. I also want to see the sculpture of the "Hands across the divide". Hoping its location is obvious from the bridge. So, what is the restaurant in Bellingham? I'll be there in a couple weeks.

I did find a RS mention of the Free Derry Museum. Its not listed in the Derry sites, but is included in the Bogside walk.

Posted by
1427 posts

We just went through Donegal a few weeks ago. Almost universally, anyone who heard we were heading to Donegal was thrilled. “That’s where WE go” was the common refrain.

We didn’t get there, but maybe check out Slieve League from Killybegs.

We stayed further north of Letterkenny in Downings. Ross Gill peninsula was a nice day, Murder Hole Beach and Tranarossan Beach were pretty spectacular, and both Harbor Bar in Downings and The Signing Pub were favorites (great fish and chips at The Signing Pub.)

I’d highly, highly recommend treating yourself to dinner at Olde Glen Bar about 30min north of you. Fantastic fine dining without being stuffy, and the old school pub is a gem. One of the best meals I’ve ever had, and a ton of food. We left stuffed and very, very happy.

Horn Head was pretty stunning. I can’t compare to the others. I’d recommend just going onto Horn Head and avoid the nearby scenic overlook, which was a road that made everyone very nervous.