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Dingle or Kilkenny?

My husband and I are going to Ireland from December 9-17, flying in and out of Dublin, for one last trip together before we have our first child (I will be 6 months pregnant, but have had an easy time so far and we're quite seasoned travelers so I think I'm up for it). We are planning to spend 2-3 days in Dublin and then rent a car and do some exploring. We want to go to the Dingle peninsula, but a friend of ours warned us about horrid winds and sideways rain. On the other hand, we have read several online articles about how the weather is unpredictable but Dingle can still be quite lovely in winter. I'd like to get some more thoughts on this. If you think it's not worth risking galing wind and rain, would it be better to spend 3-4 days staying in Kilkenney and doing day trips from there? Or is the weather so nasty everywhere that it almost doesn't matter where we go?

If we do go to Dingle, we'd like to stop at the Rock of Cashel on the way and the Cliffs of Moher on the way back to Dublin, weather permitting. So our itinerary would look something like this:

Dec 9-11: Dublin
Dec. 12: drive to Dingle via Rock of Cashel (and maybe also Glendalough? I really liked it on a previous trip)
Dec. 13-15: Dingle and Dingle peninsula
Dec. 16: Drive to Dublin via Cliffs of Moher
Dec. 17: fly out

What are your thoughts on the speed of that itinerary and if Dingle is worth braving in December? Thank you!

Posted by
61 posts

We were in both Kilkenny and Dingle last month and loved them both. The weather forecast will help you make a choice as you get closer to your trip. Kilkenny has more indoor options than Dingle (unless you consider the 45 pubs/bars in Dingle). Kilkenny has a restored castle, a couple of beautiful churches, Rothe House and pubs with traditional music. If the weather looks good, head to Dingle and take the Slea Head Drive. The Cliffs of Moher could be treacherous that time of year, so be careful. I would think accommodations might also be an issue as some places close down for the winter. Just be sure to check ahead. Hope this helps and congratulations on the new addition to your family.

Posted by
6732 posts

I think you need to plan on the weather being pretty miserable at least some of the time. It could be mild and rain-free the whole time...but it could also be hard, driving rain the whole time too. Most of the things you mention would be a challenge to enjoy in hard, driving rain. In wet weather, I think Dingle pubs are a good option (but you're obviously not going to be drinking - not that you need to). Plan for short days and long nights.

If it were me, I'd bring serious rain gear. I was there in July, brought serious rain gear, and really needed it on some days.

Posted by
82 posts

We used Kilkenny as the base for our day trips, stayed at Butler House back in 2007, , which backed up to the Kilkenny Art/Design Center. Easy walk to lots of sites and restaurants, lovely B&B.

Posted by
4 posts

Greetings from Dingle, as I type the sun is shining and there's no wind and rain, albeit it a bit cold.
I'd highly recommend you come and stay in Dingle, so beautiful and so much to do, even in the "off-season".
Kilkenny is definitely a great town, I stay there on Rick Steves tours almost every week in summer, so know it intimately. I love it, but I would think 3 days there is way too long.
And if it rains sideways in Dingle, its likely the same rain clouds will hover over Kilkenny a few hours later!
Best wishes with the journey, December is a wonderful peaceful time to travel through Ireland.
le meas/with respect
Stephen McPhilemy
Rick Steves Ireland Guide
Dingle, Derry & Dublin

Posted by
11 posts

That's great to hear! We have decided on Dingle and booked a lovely b&b. We are so excited!

Posted by
56 posts

The area around Dingle is beautiful. We flew into Shannon and toured along the south portion ending in Dublin. We loved the pubs in Dingle. Even though you are expecting, the music and wonderful people are what I most loved about Ireland. You might consider the Cliffs of Kerry instead of the Cliffs of Moher.

Posted by
459 posts

I agree with Darlinda, due to your time constraints I would opt to go to the Cliffs of Kerry and skip the drive up to Moher on your way back to Dublin...it is quite a trip out of the way and the roads prevent quick travel. I would suggest take an easy tour around the Ring of Kerry and maybe the Beara Peninsula and cut out Moher. I loved Doolin but just for the Cliffs of Moher during a long drive from Dingle I would stay in the Kerry area.

Posted by
11 posts

Thank you for these suggestions! I think we will plan on the Cliffs of Kerry instead of the Cliffs of Moher. I wasn't aware of how spectacular the Cliffs of Kerry are.

Posted by
265 posts

Agree, thought the Cliffs of Kerry were more impressive than Moher - and less commercial/crowded. Can't speak to December, weather was pretty variable in May/June. Kerry was an awesome day, Moher one day later was drizzly and overcast.

Cashel was our one wash out day of seven, POURED rain pretty much all day, such is the luck of the draw.

Posted by
12172 posts

Personal opinion only. Kilkenny wasn't a disappointment but Dingle was. Why?

Kilkenny is said to be the best medieval city in Ireland. That's damning with faint praise. There are a few quirky old buildings that go way back. Otherwise it's pretty typical. I knew that from looking at Google images of the town. There are plenty of restaurants and lodging. A few sights in town worth a visit and more major sights in the area.

Dingle was a disappointment when I went this May. It was 100 percent touristy. The shops, bars, lodging, restaurants are completely focused on the massive inflow of tourists. Driving the Dingle peninsula was also a disappointment. The Oratories were the only sights that were really worth the trip. All the other sights charge admission and are - more often than not - recreations (rebuilt or completely new built to attract tourists). I had planned to stay two nights in Dingle but fled before the second night. Partly because I'd seen what I came for but mostly because the touristy town didn't appeal.

I found the sights higher quality on Ring of Kerry as well as much less crowded. Most people drive Kerry from Killarney or Kenmare but don't spend any time at the sights. There are more legitimate sights on Kerry and the drive is much more scenic. By avoiding the worst traffic of the day and staying on the peninsula, I'd pick Kerry over either Kilkenny or Dingle.