Have driven it twice.
Once in 1997 with a clutch and two years ago in an automatic at age 63. Get the automatic and the smallest most comfortable rental you can.
Have never understood why some consider it terrifying. Then again I live in LA where driving anywhere is terrifying.
Its Not fun if you are stuck behind a tour bus but that reality holds true on any road anywhere.
Thankfully the invasion of tourists starts to diminish in Fall so they'll be fewer of those buses to contend with. I also found that by getting up early and heading out you missed those busses. On the road by 8am. Virtually had Slea Head to myself. It was wonderful.
If weather is good and you like a bit of a hike, follow Slea Head to Coumeenoole Beach. Park in the lot and follow the path to the top of the hill. Stellar views of the coast line and The Blasket islands.
Also do not miss having a pint at Foxy Johns in Dingle. Wander in around 4 or 5pm. Its small and it's odd charm will make you smile. Enjoyed a lovely couple of hours there with a few locals one November evening. It began with one man at one end of the tiny bar who was working a crossword. It was apparent he knew the man at the other end of the bar as they'd shared a bit of banter. Anyway, the man with the crossword puzzle asked aloud, " who shot Cock Robin," and I blurted out "Sparrow with his little bow and arrow." Silence. Then a smile, a thank you and conversation between the three of us and the barman began.
There's nothing like Ireland and the west coast is stunning. If you haven't heard of these places consider visiting the Gap of Dunloe. Hike it, walk it, take a trap ride. I walked half of it then returned to my car and drove over it. Again it was November so very few people, maybe 8 other vehicles and one admirable bicyclist. Mostly sheep. It was the favorite day of my visit!
Lastly, Killarney National park will be stunning at that time of year. Easy drive from Dingle to Killarney. I liked taking the path way located across from the St Mary's cathedral into the park. Just gorgeous.
Have fun.