Cobh or Cork or both

In 2017 I spent 2 nights in Cork, and did a day trip to Cobh. Oddly I had no interest in the Titanic museum in Cobh, but actually found it fascinating and enjoyed wandering the town. Cork was a great place to walk around.

May 2023 was our first visit to County Cork, and we stayed in Cork city, making day trips to Cobh, Kinsale, and other locations. Cobh was interesting, and included a less-than-ideal time at the Titanic Experience (in the original White Star Line headquarters building), a short visit to an art museum, and a delightful picnic in JFK Park. The overall impression of the city, by the harbor area, is that it’s kind-of run down, with lots of former businesses closed, and buildings shuttered. We didn’t seek out trad music in Cobh, but we did find excellent music in downtown Cork.

Before I get to the Cork music venues, the Butter Museum is worth a visit. It’s from where Kerrygold Butter became a worldwide brand, and only a small portion of one of the original complex’s buildings is open. There’s a 15 minute film explaining how Kerrygold was launched, and many old-time implements for making butter are there, donated by local residents. There are about a million different butter wrappers displayed from the past 120 years, and you can make one or two of your own wrappers. The second floor has a modest exhibit on Irish geology and history. Still, worth going.

Also, have dinner at Goldie, a fantastic fish restaurant. But you’ll need a reservation (locals have a tough time getting one), and should book it 2 weeks before you get to Ireland.

So, music in Cork: look to the north side of the River Lee, where there are several pubs/bars with music. Not all of it was Trad, all the time, but many were reliable to have a Trad session. Look at Sin E, and the others along Coburg St., two blocks north of the river. We did a pub crawl starting at Sin E.

We didn’t ever venture quite as far east as Waterford, but east of Cobh, did find Ballycotton, a tiny town with an awesome Sunday afternoon session at Blackbird Ballycotton. I don’t know whether they have music other days or nights.

It's a easy to get between Cobh and Cork that I wouldn't move between them. I would have thought Cork was the more likely to find music. Cobh is predominantly a day trip destination.
There is also the Emigration Museum (different to the Titanic Museum) at the Railway Station and the Cathedral (a lung busting walk up the hill) to visit in Cobh.

All valuable input. I think we'll stay in Cork both nights and maybe take the train to/from Cohb for the Sunday session at RobRoy. Listening to music without a Guinness in hand makes it necessary to leave the car at the lodging so Ballycotton is probably not an option, although I'll check the bus timetable.

Cyn's description of Cobh flashed me back to Portrush, where I wouldn't go back.

Good luck with Ballycotton - only 3 buses a day on the #240, and none at all on Sunday.