Beara, Kerry and/ or Dingle Peninsula

We just got home from Ireland less than 2 weeks ago, driving a compact Seat Ibiza. You’ll be glad to have a small car - if we’d been in one of the many big Audi sedans or bigger Hyundai SUV’s that were on the roads, it would’ve been even more stressful. Beara and Ring of Kerry roads are different, the pull-offs of you want to visit a lake or mountain valley are different, and towns along the way are varied, too. We didn’t visit Dingle on this last trip, but did on our first trip 12 years ago, and I’d say it was unique from the other two, as well.

Some roads offer expansive views out to sea, others, are vegetation-lined narrow roads (with road-hogging bicyclists in and near Kenmare in our case - I’m a cyclist but I don’t ride three abreast, go the wrong way on one-way streets, or stop in the middle of the road without warning), and some are high mountain open spaces. If you’ve got the time, go for all of the above.

I'd say see all three with the caveat that views of the ocean are in places blocked by trees, etc. around the ROK. Its western stretch is also not nearly as scenic as the southern and eastern sections. It's number three on my list of your options.

By all means climb Healy Pass on the Beara Peninsula. It's a gentle grade with a bunch of switchbacks and a grand view from the summit. At the bottom of the western end you'll find a delightful c. 1764 An Sibin ("a place that serves alcohol without a license") that was being renovated when I stopped by last August. The owner hoped to have it open this summer. Across the road is a miniature of it next to a gas pump that "pumps" Murphys Stout. Of course!

The Dingle Peninsula is a scenic and historic delight. Lots of B&Bs and pubs in Dingle town and elsewhere around the peninsula. You can take the ferry to the Blasket Islands from either Dingle town or Dunquin at the peninsula's western end. You need to make advance reservations. Well worth a full day, with about three hours on the island. A historic interpreter should be present to give an hour presentation on the history of the Blaskets, the islanders and what life was like there until they were moved to the mainland in 1953. Our presenter did it all from memory in both English and a bit of Irish. It was captivating.

Definitely do all three, especially as you have 2-3 weeks. They are very different.

Ring of Kerry has the amazing ring forts of Staigue, Cahergal, and Leacnabuile.

Also don’t miss the Kerry Cliffs standing over 1000’ and often reckoned to be better than Cliffs of Moher.

Dingle has the early Christian stuff with the beehive huts at Fahan and the Gallarus oratory. The oratory is freeto visit, so don't be conned into paying unless you want to go in the visitor centre (not worth it...) There's also lots to see at Kilmalkedar ruined church
There is also the famine cottage at Ventry There’s not much about it on the web but there are plenty of trip advisor reviews up until Sept 2022. We found this fascinating.
The Slea Peninsula is flatter and much more fertile than the Ring of Kerry

Beara Peninsula is completely different. It doesn’t get the same number of visitors. Don’t miss the Hag of Beara (decidedly spooky!) It also sounds as if the cable car to Dursey Island is running again after bieing closed for a long time. That is definitely worth going to see and even taking a ride on. And do make a trip to Garnish Island.

You don’t mention it, but Sheep’s Head Peninsula is even more off the tourist beat but is well worth driving and scenically is very different again.

There’s no right or wrong answer. Staying off the beaten path helps you avoid hordes of other tourists but there’s a reason the hordes go where they do. You will enjoy whatever you do. We hired a driver for full day tours and it was well worth it, allowing everybody to enjoy all the sites without the stress of driving the narrow roads.

Good advice from the others.
I would only offer the opinion that spending a full 2 or 3 weeks in that area would be massive overkill (IMHO). Though Dingle, the ROK and Beara are indeed beautiful, you can pretty much see what there is to see and do what there is to do in just a few days in each location.
With the freedom of a car, and depending on your particular interests, I'd suggest heading north up into Connemara upon your arrival in Shannon. It's by far our favorite part of the country with lots to keep you occupied for a few days.
The suggestion to continue south from Beara towards Sheepshead and Mizen Head is a good one. It's an area that most visitors to Ireland never get to see so you'll have it pretty much all to yourselves.
If you're into scenic drives and pleasant meanderings by car consider picking up a copy of "Back Roads Ireland". Can usually find used copies on Amazon for just a few dollars.

Thank you for your comments. They’re very helpful. After a few changes here’s my new draft. I still have a few more nights to place. Glengariff on our Beara day? (trying to eliminate doubling back and one night stays). i would appreciate input.
1- SEA-Shannon
3 nights Doolin. Bus or taxi to Doolin (4 of us). At Doolin; Cliff walk, boat tour of Cliffs (possible day trip to Arans?? Not sure i get really seasick; even on WA state ferries) & jet lag recover before car pu.
3 nights Dingle. Get back to airport/pu car. Stop in
Adare. At Dingle: Falconry Experience, walking tour, Dingle Distillery Tour, crystal cutting factory, Full day Dingle Peninsula drive.
3 nights Kenmar. stop at Ross castle, Muckross House, Killarney National Park, Torc Waterfall. At Kenmare: Kissane Sheep Farm, Ladies view, Stone Circle, Lorge Chocolatier.
Full day Ring of Kerry
2 nights Kinsale. on way full day of Beara Peninsula. At Kinsale: Historical walking tour, Scilly Walk, Charles Fort, Bullman Bar, Kinsale Mead Tour.
1 night Cashel, on way Middleton Distillery, Cobh, (want to see it at night) ROC.
1 night Kilkenny. Hore Abbey, Kilkenny Castle
2 nights Dublin, (return car first)

Sounds great with lots of exciting things to look forward to!

If time allows, also try and visit the Traditional Farms at Mucross. I found them a lot more interesting than Mucross House...

We just returned from Ireland. I like your trip thoughts, 2 ideas I'll add:
- Dingle Peninsula is a half day trip, not a full day. So you can possibly plan one of your sites for that day. We loved the town of Dingle. Good dinner at Doyle's Seafood. The Dingle Pub was our favorite.
- I would suggest adding the Skellig Ring onto your Ring of Kerry drive. The Skellig Ring offers some great sites - Kerry Cliffs (5€), town of Portmagee, Valentia Island. The Skellig Micheal museum on Valentia Island is a nice, quick, informative stop.

Renee,

Seasickness- I got a great tip from a concierge in Cabo once that I always use when going on boats. She said take dramamine before you go to bed the night before a boat trip. She said you won't even have to take it the day of but I always do anyway "just in case". It works wonders.

Accommodations - I'm curious where you will be staying in Kinsale. Looking for suggestion. Thanks

Actually jimk, we needed two days to do full justice to Dingle Peninsula - there were so many places we wanted to stop...