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Beara options

We like to stay "in town" mainly to be within walking range of pubs (and especially music). Our next trip will include going from Dingle to Baltimore to take the ferry to Cape Clear. Midway, we will stay in Kenmare, then either Eyeries, Allihies, or Castletown-Bearhaven while driving the Peninsula. All three have a few pubs and music is equally unlikely :-(

Any suggestions for one of them (or an alternative)? Skipping the Beara Peninsula is another choice since we've already been over the Healy Pass half of the drive and that would let us add something else.

The entire 3 week trip trip consists of Ennis (or Ennistymon?) x2, 7 days LeBoat on the Shannon from Portumna, Dingle x2, Kenmare, one of the above, Cape Clear, Cobh x2, Waterford, and Glendalough x2.

Posted by
741 posts

Never been to Bantry either, if that is another candidate.

Posted by
2280 posts

Don't miss Beara - it is completely different to both the Ring of Kerry and Dingle peninsula. It doesn't get the coach tours either! It is worth driving down to the end for the Cable car to Dursey Island. Locals have priority (and that used to apply to cattle too!) If time allows, do the tripo across to the island just for the experience. Have a look here for more information and there is a map here with ideas for walking once on Durse.

Also do go and find the Hag of Beara.... It is a decidedly spooky place with offerings left on the stone for the Hag.

Posted by
741 posts

I've re-designed our trip and now plan to spend two nights in either Allihies or Eyeries. The former is my current choice, mainly because of the chance of pub music and many Youtube posts praising Allihies, but I think either would be pleasant. Am looking for informed opinions.

Posted by
2980 posts

Not sure if this will be much help, but on our last visit (pre Covid) we stayed near Allihies in a self-catering cottage in the countryside. Didn't spend much time in the village itself but it seemed pleasant enough.
We did enjoy the location which was central to everything we wanted to see on the peninsula ... which is universally gorgeous, and uncrowded.
A nice side trip if you're up for something off the beaten tourist path (and don't mind a short hike) is to the abandoned famine village of Cummeengeera - a particularly pretty little time capsule not far from Allihies. I believe it's shown on Google maps if you're interested.

Posted by
741 posts

Thanks - everything helps.

I had Cummeengeera on our itinerary, but I deleted it since we were coming all the way from Dingle and my wife likes too dawdle in Gardens like Derreen. I'll look at adding it back in, maybe as a day trip from Allihies/Eyeries. Plan to do the Bull Rock boat trip if the weather is fair, so Cummeengeera could be the backup plan.

Posted by
192 posts

As far as I remember Cummeengeera is not near Allihies but ca.5km from Derreen Gardens Lauragh at the Rabhachs-Glen

https://www.irishtimes.com/life-and-style/travel/go-walk-rabhach-s-glen-beara-peninsula-co-kerry-1.2111484

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Z_5XeuN0H4

As said drive from Lauragh a narrow road through forest to a remote farm where you can park your car
There is also a stone row
http://www.megalithicireland.com/Shronebirrane%20Stone%20Circle.html

Walk from there about 2km to the ruins (see youtube above)
Recommended to walk in fair weather

Posted by
2980 posts

Another thought as it occurs to me: Wasleys suggestion of taking the cable car over to Dursey Island (posted capacity: 3 people and a cow) is a good one, but know that what used to be a well-guarded secret is out and you'll likely experience lines and a bit of a wait before you cross ... and of course it's likely to be worse at the height of summer. Still worth it though. West Cork was hit especially hard by the famine and Dursey was one of the casualties - the island was deserted and I don't think anyone lives there permanently anymore - at least that was the case when we visited a few years ago. Rather, the island is now used by some of the locals on Beara to graze their sheep, and what structures remain make it another little time capsule of what life was like in pre-famine days. The ruins of an old church near the cable car station are particularly evocative, as are all of the ruined cottages you'll pass as you hike along the dirt road to the end and back.
If the lines appear too daunting, know that there are some very nice hikes along the headland on the Beara side - providing lots of very pretty sea views along a level track.

Posted by
741 posts

I thought we'd skip Dursey since we may have been to Blasket a couple of days earlier and cable cars aren't all that exciting. Bull Rock actually sounds more interesting.

Posted by
2980 posts

Probably a good call given the length of the lines we experienced on our last visit.