We will be going to the Aran Islands from Doolin. Rick's book says that sometimes these ferries can be cancelled because of weather. I've been trying to find information online as to how often this happens, but I've struck out. We will be doing this in mid-September. Also, since we will be leaving from Doolin, the nearest island is Inisheer. Would you suggest just spending our time on that island, or island hopping to Inishmore as well? I'm having a hard time figuring out all of the timetables on the websites for both Doolin2Aran Ferries and the Doolin Ferry Company. I'm worried that we'll spend so much time on the various ferries we won't really get much time on any of the islands, but on the other hand I have FOMO (fear of missing out) and this is probably my one and only chance to go to these islands. Thanks for your help!
Your best bet is to wait until a day or two before your trip to have a look at the forecast and go from there - the boats are seldom full so you do have the luxury of waiting.
The boats themselves are proper ferries, ie reasonably sizeable craft that can take rougher sea states than the smaller excursion and tour boats. Though the ferry can make it across and back in some pretty crummy weather, whether you'll want to be aboard when it does is another matter entirely. If you're at all prone to sea sickness you'd be well advised to ensure that the weather forecast is favorable for the crossing before you commit. In September you shouldn't have a problem ... historically that is, but do build some flexibility into your itinerary to maximize your chances of success.
I agree that it’s best to wait until you’re actually there, and then make your plans depending on the weather. September can go either way.
If you do go, I’d recommending visiting only Inisheer (the nearest island), so you can spend time exploring, rather than being on the boat. I’m sure each is lovely in its own way, but unless you can spend the night, you’re right that you’d be doing too much running around to enjoy anything. I’d rather “go deeper” than shallower, if that makes sense.
BTW, both ferry companies have the same rates, and similar schedules. Don’t worry about shopping around for the best price. Just get on the next boat that has room for you, and enjoy!
My plan is to ferry from Rossaveel to Inishmore, arrive early, see sights and spend a night on the island before ferrying back the next day. I don't plan on visiting the other islands.
It's best to have some flexibility for weather related activities. If you have plans around Doolin, check the weather and decide which day is best to make the ferry trip. If all days look good, do the thing that might get canceled (if the weather changes) first. If all days look bad, have a back up activity plan but keep checking.
We took the ferry from Doolin to Inisheer and only visited that island. It's small so easy to explore. It's a lovely walk out to the lighthouse and past a shipwreck. Lots of charm on the island, stone walls and sheep is pretty much it, but it's lovely. Only one town and it's right where the ferry docks. There is a castle and fort on the hill overlooking the town. We walked everywhere, but I did see bikers so I suppose there is a bike rental in the town, or else they rented in Doolin and brought them on the ferry. There are jaunty carts for hire at the dock, at least there was several years ago when we were there. It's a bit less developed than the larger islands but I loved it. It embodied the wildness I had expected of the islands.
As for the ferry, there was a mild chop on the water when we went and a few people did get a little green. It's a short ride from Doolin, but if you're prone to seasickness prepare yourself with whatever remedy you use (pills, wrist bands, ginger, etc). I think it has to be pretty bad before the ferries cancel, but that stretch of water is often a bit 'bumpy' and they will still run.
I agree with the others that you should wait and see on the weather and sea conditions before deciding. I'm not sure I would spend the time it would take to get to Inishmore, Inishheer will give you a good feel for the islands.