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7 day Heart of Ireland tour questions

I have a few questions - mostly about the days near arrival and departure.

1) The Shannon airport looks easy enough to navigate, and we are planning on getting a bus to Ennis. Bus Éireann runs line 51 regularly. Is it a good idea to get a bus ticket in advance? Does anyone have any other advice on transportation to Ennis?

2) We are arriving a day early. We'll walk around Ennis and go to the Friary. I think the Glor website says there is going to be music that day. We'll be operating on little to no sleep, but is there anything in Ennis that we should see or do on our first day by ourselves before the tour starts?

3) The tour starts in the afternoon on April 5th, which is Easter. Do you guys know what dress attire is like for a typical Easter mass in Ireland? I haven't been to a Catholic service in a long time. Just wondering if that's an option because I won't be packing a suit and tie. I'm assuming Easter services will be in the morning.

4) Our last stop on the tour will be Dublin. I believe we have at least one afternoon to ourselves. There's the Guinness and Jameson factories. The Bohemians and St. Patrick's have home games that night (I don't think tickets are available yet). Any other suggestions on what we should do on our last day in Dublin?

Thank you!

Posted by
2506 posts

I was hoping someone who had taken this tour more recently would post, but maybe this will prompt some other responses. We took this tour in 2016, so it’s been awhile and the tour has had some tweaks. We arrived via Shannon airport and bought tickets from the bus driver to Ennis on the spot. Once we got to Ennis, it was an easy walk to our hotel, The Old Ground Hotel. We didn’t do much other than walk around the first day. Back then the food at the Poet’s Corner attached to the hotel was quite good.

We took a tour of Kilmainham Gaol in Dublin and it was excellent, especially as it looks like you visit Glasnevin Cemetery on your way to Dublin and the two complement each other in terms of history. Be sure to book tickets ahead as they sell out.

If you want additional information, there is a section of tour scrapbook archives on the “Our Tours” page of the RS website. It shows what people have done in the past few years. We had a great time.

Posted by
6 posts

Greetings from Ireland,
You're going to love this Heart of Ireland tour.
I enjoyed a decade of happy years guiding over 100 of these for Rick Steves before I retired from RS guiding last season.
To answer your questions:
1. Shannon airport is tiny and getting from there to Ennis with Bus Éireann is easy and cost-effective. A taxi wouldnt be incredibly expensive either and its a 25 minute drive, this might be worth considering if you like to be really hassle-free. (In my experience well over half of the Tour Members for this Heart of Ireland tour still landed in Dublin airport and took the train or bus across to Ennis to begin the tour)
2. Ennis is a lovely town with warm friendly people, it has a rich history but these days its a little underwhelming in terms of things to do. You're absolutely right to go and visit the Friary, although try and join a guided tour so that you dont miss any of the interesting details to be found there. Theres a few reasonably good pubs and cafes, and of course good trad music in the later evenings. The Poets Corner in the hotel bar has a decent session most evenings. Saturday nights are very lively in Ennis, most pubs are absolutely packed. On my 100 visits to Ennis, my experience was by Sunday evening it was usually a bit deserted and very quiet. Unless Clare were playing in the hurling or football, and then it was an entirely different affair :) .... (Easter Sunday evening might be a bit more lively than a normal Sunday).
3. Your tour hotel, the Old Ground (which is a nice spot with friendly staff), is right across the street from the Cathedral, so thats handy for Easter Mass. Theres no dress attire for Mass, so wear what makes you comfortable and/or you feel is respectful. Certainly no need for a suit or tie. Some of the older generations tend to still dress more formally, but the small percentage of the younger generations who choose to attend Mass these days mostly dress casually.
4. Theres so many great things to see and do in Dublin during your free time, your Rick Steves guide will be happy to assist and advise also during the tour, but from my experience about 5 or 6 of the 28 tour members would always visit the Guinness storehouse in their free time and they enjoyed it despite the often overwhelming crowds that have become the norm (the Guinness storehouse used to be on this itinerary but got dropped after a year or 2.)
Jameson was popular to a lesser extent, and many more tour members spoke highly of visiting the Epic Irish emigration museum (highly rated by Rick).
Your walking tour of Dublin will include the Book of Kells and Trinity college and usually includes the courtyard of Dublin castle, so you'll get a good overview of the city and its history.
In 100 tours I never once met a tour member who went to a Bohemians or St. Patricks Athletic soccer match, so thats cool that you are considering it. Certainly would be a unique and authentic experience for you (excuse my bias but I hope one of them is playing Derry City that night and lose heavily). These soccer or football games (confusingly some of us Irish use the term 'soccer', some use 'football', some even use both references in the same conversation!) usually attract around 5,000 fans and theres a decent buzz in the small stadium. A Gaelic football or Hurling game would in my opinion be an even more unique cultural experience, and the opening games of the championship seem to be starting on the weekend your tour arrives into Dublin. If Dublin are playing, then Id highly recommend trying to check it out. I brought Rick Steves to Croke park some years ago to cheer on Donegal and he loved it, such a fun day, Rick even attempted a pitch invasion!
Heres the fixture and game information:
https://www.gaa.ie/article/gaa-master-fixtures-schedule-for-2026

Enjoy your Heart of Ireland tour, youll have a great time. I'm jealous :)

Stephen McPhilemy
Rick Steves Ireland Guide (retired) of 20 years

Posted by
9570 posts

Hi PuffinEnthusiast. We took this tour last July. I think many Americans just don't realize that the Shannon Airport is an option. It's perfectly fine, and airfares - in Shannon, out of Dublin - were fine. We took a taxi to Ennis and I think it was around 30€. No, we didn't find there's much to do there other than walk around. It's a very nice town, and the main streets are full of small mom&pop shops.

At the end of the tour, we took an extra day and took a DART (rapid transit) ride out to the fishing town of Howth, a suburb of Dublin on the Irish Sea. It was a lovely town to walk around, have some seafood, and be out of the urban environment.

PS One thing we learned on our tour is that Ireland has rapidly become a secular country, with the church having a diminished role and attendance way down. Some of that has to do with increased prosperity and a huge number of abuse cases coming to light. So I wouldn't worry about attire for a service. Just go.

Posted by
892 posts

Stephen McPhilemy lead the tour of Ireland for our RS trip we took there.

He is the greatest guide in the history of the universe. Imagine someone who is informative, funny, sings, can make you laugh, and make you cry and then multiply that by 100 and then you’d have a guide that is only half as good as him.

Wait. That made no sense. But you get the idea.

I think RS tours still use his hotel in Dingle. If so, he had a couple of those giant Irish wolfhounds that really know how to lick your face!

Happy travels.

P.S. My wife popped into the Easter mass bedraggled from the flight with shorts on and they welcomed her all the same.

Posted by
10 posts

Hello fellow travelers!! I hope I'm not breaking any rules by joining in here with another question about this tour. 3 of us are doing this tour starting May 17. After reading quite a bit about the area we think we'd enjoy a thorough tour around the Burren area with a local guide. It doesn't look like the RS tour includes more than the famous cliffs although I've put a message in to ask about that. My 2019 guidebook suggested a day tour company which seems to be out of business now ( Barrett Tours). So Im wondering if maybe we should consider using our pretour time by going to Galway and doing a tour of the Burren and surrounding area from there. Then we would need to get the bus on a Sunday morning to get down to Ennis where our official tour begins. Does anybody out there have any experience with this? (I know some of you think the Burren is just a big scabby rock but if you consider the unique flora and fauna as us farmers are prone to do it can be quite interesting. And the surrounding area is beautiful.) We have not booked air or hotels yet so our plans are still wide open around this tour but we need to firm things up soon. Suggestions welcome. Lakewood Linda

Posted by
9570 posts

Lakewood Linda, our tour only spent a few hours at the cliffs, so no, it's not a thorough visit. Your plan to go early sounds like a good idea.

The downside to adding a question two an older thread is that people may not see the new question. No harm in asking via a separate thread, as many people just look for new threads (by using the "All Topics" function). Your question is specific enough to warrant that.