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1st Timers to Ireland, Excited And Second Guessing My Itinerary Planning

Very excited about trip but am in my typical phase of trip planning where I start to second guess myself. Would greatly appreciate some feedback. Apologize in advance for long post.

Have 14 days (2 days fly time from states) in second half of May 2023. Myself +1. We do not want whole trip to be a series of 1 night stays, but, sprinkled a couple in because it seemed to help with itinerary. Interested in seeing Irish cities and villages, being outside as much as possible, architecture, good food and drink, experiencing some live music once or twice, maybe one museum (prefer to be outside exploring).

(When we are in a place for multiple nights, the days we do certain things might shift slightly depending on weather, etc... For us, that is also a plus to staying in places more than one night.)

Day 1 - fly

Day 2 - arrive to Dublin 10am. Rent car at airport and drive to Kilkenny. Explore what we feel up to. Stay Kilkenny (possibly at Butler Court Guest House)

Day 3 - Drive to Killarney. Stopping to see Rock of Cashel and Hore Abbey. Explore Killarney town a little in evening. Stay Killarney. (possibly at The Ross in town center)
****I have read conflicting info about Killarney being a tourist nightmare but also read that it is a good location to stay at for what we are wanting to do. Surely there is a way to find some off the beaten path areas of Killarney?? And we will be out exploring Dingle Peninsula and NP two of the days.

Day 4 - Slow down, explore town and whatever else might be easy and low key. Stay Killarney.

Day 5 - Head out to Dingle Peninsula. Spend some time in Dingle and drive Slea Head Peninsula stopping at various spots. May or may not do Connor Pass, will play that by ear. Stay Killarney.

Day 6 - Explore Killarney National Park. Stay Killarney.

Day 7 - Drive up to Doolin. Walk some part of Cliffs of Moher, maybe do a Cliffs cruise if weather good. Slow down, maybe see some live music. Stay Doolin (possibly at Daly's House B&B)
***Have read conflicting info about Cliffs (touristy) and Doolin (not much to do) but it just seemed like a good place to split up drive from Killarney to Galway plus in light of what we want to see in area.*****

Day 8 - Flex morning. Either go out to Inisheer for the day, explore the Burren a little bit or head straight to Galway. Stay Galway (struggling to find a city center hotel that appeals to me with parking included in cost - considering Park House Hotel or Corrib House Guest Accommodation. Any recommendations appreciated)
***Have read conflicting info about Galway - some people recommend some people don't, but, seems odd to me to skip it.

Day 9 - Explore Galway. Stay Galway.

Day 10 - Flex day. Maybe go over and explore Connemara. Or do something we did not do previous day or even something we have not thought of yet. Stay Galway.

Day 11 - Drive over to Dublin. Drop car at airport. Catch taxi to hotel in city center. (Have not looked at hotels in Dublin yet. Any recommendations appreciated). Stay Dublin.

Day 12. Stay Dublin.

Day 13. Stay Dublin.

Day 14. Fly home.

Thanks again for your help!!!

Posted by
5196 posts

Being jet lagged, on unfamilar ground, and driving on the other side, sounds like an accident waiting to happen. Everyone is different, but most people are just not at their best under those circumstances. Perhaps using some other transportation to your first stop will be a more prudent idea. Or at least spend the first night in Dublin and then rent a car.

Posted by
4 posts

thank you TC for mentioning this, we talked about this alot. we landed with the fact that we both surprisingly sleep pretty well on planes, we get in at 10am, we purposely picked a location that is not that long of a drive for which we will have all day to make the drive (will be in no rush), and adding a day at start in dublin had some negative itinerary ripple effects. having said that, what other transportation options might you recommend? Is it easy to rent a car in Kilkenny since no airport? (I'd also need to look into added cost for different drop off location)

Posted by
5196 posts

There are at least three car rental places in Kilkenny. Getting there from Dublin is fairly simply. There is a shuttle bus service from the airport to the train station in Dublin. Then there are trains every couple of hours to Kilkenny. Google "Dublin Airpot to Heuston Station", and then search "Trains service from Dublin to Kilkenny". Hope this helps.

Posted by
4 posts

Thanks so much TC, great info. We will reconsider this.

Posted by
2042 posts

Please do reconsider driving first day. Being in a new place is always disoriented and driving on the left side and in a different car is not good. The other suggestions sound good.

Posted by
1585 posts

Your itinerary looks good to me. The main caveat would be driving 2 hours after an overnight flight. But because you sleep well on the plane and are perhaps experienced with a right-hand drive car you might feel comfortable doing so. You will be on M and N motorways almost the entire way there. The real trick will be navigating in Kilkenny. I just looked at Google maps and there's a kind of hairy right hand turn you need to make for the guest house you're considering.

Killarney is not a particularly quaint and charming town. It has come into being only recently and the architecture shows it. Getting into and out of town is a bit of a mosh pit and can try one's patience. Having said that, it is convenient, especially for the park, there is an older hotel near the park that looks nice, although I've never stayed there so can't give you any particulars. Killarney is certainly convenient for exploring both the Kerry and Dingle Peninsulas. Just don't expect much "trad culture". I can't really comment on the northwest portion of your trip. It's been 30 years since I've been to that area.

Posted by
4 posts

Thank you Trotter for your insights. You've got me thinking now... what if I switched Killarney to Kenmare? We would need to go see the Beara Peninsula instead of Dingle Peninsula. Is Kenmare more quaint/traditional less tourist? If we did this the drive down from Kilkenny would be slightly longer. And, our drive up to Doolin would be slightly longer. But it would add a TON of time to either. Is the Beara Peninsula comparable to Dingle? (If being honest, don't recall now how we zeroed in on Dingle Peninsula other than repeatedly read recommendations for it over Ring of Kerry. I have not done as much research on Beara.)

and p.s. to Trotter, so kind of you to look up about the driving/turns on our routes!!

Posted by
2282 posts

Killarney is a tourist mecca. Kenmare is less touristy. It is possible to do Dingle and Slea Head from Kenmare, although it can make for quite a long day. Beara Peninsula is lovely and we much preferred it to Rink of Kerry. Check if the Dursey Island cable car at the end of the peninsula is operational again. It is a ten minute crossing and a a unique experience. There is also the Hag of Beara - a decidedly spooky experience...

Sheeps Head peninsula is also rather nice too and even quieter than Beara.

Gap of Dunloe is a superb drive but does get very busy during the day with jaunting cars and walkers. Save this and do in the evening when everyone has gone home.

Cliffs of Moher are tourist central and are always busy. The best way to see them is from the sea. The Burren with its limestone scenery is stunning and completely different to anywhere else in Ireland. The drive along the coast from Doolin to Kinvarra (with its castle) is one of the best.

I love Connemara and actually much preferred it to Kerry. The area around Roundstone with its tiny harbour and views to the Twelve Bens is wonderful. Also make sure you do the Sky Road drive from Clifden. On a sunny day, this is one of the best short drives in the world.

On the way back to Dublin, make a stop at the early Christian site of Clonmacnoise with its round tower, ruined churches and crosses.

Posted by
124 posts

We were just in Ireland the last 2 weeks in May. It is a great time to go.

We stayed in Killarney and loved the proximity to everything. We stayed at The Lake Hotel and it was beautiful, so restful and serene and just off the beaten path. Maybe, Killarney is a mess in the peak of the busy season, but it was very pleasant in May. We also stayed in Dingle, which we loved. If you want to avoid Killarney, you could split those days between Kenmare and Dingle.

When planning your days and driving, don't over plan. It is very slow driving, narrow roads and regular obstacles. What seems like a quick jaunt, an hour away, turns into a 3 hour round trip, not counting the time spent at your destination,

Posted by
75 posts

I'm also a first timer planning a similar trip in May. In my research I've found that one way car rentals are more expensive and options are limited if picking up in a smaller town, especially if you want an automatic(also more expensive) which I definitely want. As for Killarney vs Kenmare, I opted for Kenmare but found out that there is a big cycling event around the Ring of Beara on May 27th so lodging may be hard to find if you are in the area at that time. I am flying in to Dublin but flying out of Shannon to cut down some of the driving time and also found a hotel right by the airport (Radisson) which will allow me to drop of the car the day before we fly home and not have to arrange transportation to the airport. Sounds like alot of people are planning to go to Ireland this year so do your bookings asap! Good luck and have a great trip!

Posted by
742 posts

There are those that will tell you to avoid driving on arrival, and another camp that will tell you one-night stays are to be avoided. What you should do is make a list of what kind of things you like, for example trad music in small pubs, Neolithic sites, furnished castles or sheepdog herding, and see how those things fit together. Most importantly, consider the trip a scouting mission for your next trip. We'll be on our fourth scouting mission this May. We're alternating years between Ireland and Scotland to give me time to integrate the experiences into our next trip.

You obviously done a lot of research to get to where you are, and I'd say "full speed ahead" and learn from your mistakes.

My one advice would be to crack on with your reservations or you''ll be stuck in character-less hotels and absurd car rental prices. I finished booking our May trip last June. And I expect of 2024 Scotland trip to be booked by this July (can't book airfare till 11 months before, and that's the first step).

Posted by
295 posts

I have not been to Ireland, but I don't know that I've read a proposed itinerary from a first timer to anywhere that is as thoughtful and balanced as yours (myself, of course, included)! Your willingness to go to the popular places while acknowledging their imperfections, (knowing there is a reason they are worthwhile) combined with the integration of your personal interests and willingness to go off the typical path for part of the time suggests an utter lack of snobbery that I think serves any traveler well. With that approach, I'd think any itinerary you came up with would be a winner.

My experience is that "touristy" places are often the best places to be off-peak. There's a reason they became touristy and they often have resources and food and other things the more remote spots won't have and you'll get to enjoy them in a more similar state to how they were when they became popular. (We were in Cinque Terre in March and there were the type of "crowds" you'd find in a little known village. We strolled the beach with only 3-4 other people there total and got to see the gorgeous views with no impediments. It was utterly clear why people go there from all over the world.) If you like the idea/look of a place (or if it's just downright convenient), I wouldn't miss it because it has a reputation for being touristy and likewise wouldn't skip a more remote place just because it's not as popular.

You really have a beautiful combination of specific sites to see and time reserved for exploration and open-ended discovery. I hope it's a wonderful trip and that you'll tell us about it when you return.

Posted by
6 posts

Your trip sounds much like the one my wife and I took three years ago, and we drove to Kilkenny upon landing in Dublin - a great idea. Do find time to spend a few days in Dublin though - so much to see. I’d highly recommend the Harding Hotel. We also stayed at the Butler Court Guess House - a nice quaint place. Here’s my best advice - spend a day or two in Kinsale. Most importantly, spend at least two days in Dingle and day trip from there. Stay at the Castlewood House, if you can get in. Plan your itinerary around staying there! Lots of other ideas but out of time for now. Have fun. Oh yes, Kenmare is a very nice town day trip from as well. Stay at the Shelbourne Lodge!!