Please sign in to post.

August/September 2024 trip notes part 2

(Part 1 is below in comments, the forum thought part 1 was duplicating my post)

Car/Driving, continued
There is essentially no shoulder on much of the roads. Do not take this lightly - we saw a semi tip over when their front passenger tire went off the road. Other people had stopped and were helping, on top of the driver’s side cab door, on the phone, directing traffic. We drove on, and wished the driver well! Do NOT stop unless there is a pullout. Another experience that is vivid in my mind happened in one of the one lane tunnels. Generally, these are easy: the pullouts are frequent and on one side, and if you see headlights and are on the pullout side, you pull over as far forward in the pullout as you can to allow room for cars behind you. However, in one of those tunnels, we saw tons of lights on a vehicle completely filling the tunnel, and they had the pullout side. We were fortunate to not the be the first car, and followed the lead of the car in front of us to pull over on the wrong side pullout. Four cars packed in, and I watched in disbelief when a double semi went through. I couldn’t believe it fit. This was a 7km tunnel with lots of cars. One lane bridges were easy.

Food/Restaurants
On our long 12-14 hour travel days, I didn’t want to have to count on being in a particular place at a particular time. I had three solutions. I had planned grocery store trips, with number of meals to shop for. We bought skyr for most mornings, and then would often hit a bakery for a treat and coffee. One road meal solution was to buy the premade sandwiches at the bakery (checking pictures in Google reviews to see if they carried them). Another meal solution was the grocery store and buying the prepackaged flat half-round rye bread (flatkökur), and sliced meat and cheese, and making sandwiches. (Butter would have been a nice add, but it was good without.) The third was the quick cafe/soup buffet/hot dog stand type restaurant, or a gas station restaurant.

Money/shopping
We used Apple Pay exclusively, but were prepared with a debit card and PIN for the unmanned gas stations. I took out no cash; the one w/c I paid for took Apple Pay. I had the Currency app on my phone for when I wanted to be sure of the conversion rate. In his book, Rick says a rough conversion is to drop two digits and subtract 25% to get to USD. That’s pretty close.

Sights
We enjoy natural sights and museums, and saw many of those kinds of typical tourist things. Here are some less obvious sights which might be of interest:

  • CityWalk tour on arrival day, paying with a tip afterwards. Sign up in advance.
  • Staðarbjörg Basalt Columns in Hófsos. Park by the swimming pool and go down the steps.
  • Avalanche Defense trail in Siglufjörður. There is parking.
  • Driving up to the ski lift in Siglufjörður and looking down the fjord.
  • Walking around Kjarnaskógur in Akureyri.
  • Stuðlagil Canyon in the east - incredible view, but this road wasn’t trivial or short. It was under construction or being repaired in one spot and was very rough, but it wasn’t great even without that. This was our introduction to sheep standing and not moving on the road. We literally backed up and went around them on other side, but grateful they didn’t behave like deer!
  • Úlfseyjarsandur beach in Höfn - drive to the airstrip and park where you can, walk down the strip, and enjoy the beach and view. Better at low tide. There’s a public w/c in town.
  • Dverghamrar in the south - a nice 15 minute stop of worn basalt columns.
  • Gönguleið um Eldhraun lava field - a few minutes from the above, another 15 minute stop where you can look at the mossy lava field.
  • Laugarvatn Fontana on the Golden Circle - park at the spa and walk to the right of the building on the path, and you can see where they “bake” the steamed rye bread (rúgbrauð).

I hope some of this is of use to future travelers!
Dulcey

Posted by
2798 posts

Sounds like an ice trip! I head back next week again and can't wait;)

Yes, the one way tunnels are easy unless someone is not following the rules. That experience would be unnerving! The no shoulders surprises a lot of people and you really do have to pay attention. The one lane bridges are easy, but sometimes people get piggy and don't wait their turn.

Your meal solutions are what we often do. Skyr is a breakfast staple for us and I miss it at home as what we can buy here at home just does not compare. Lunches are the same as you. I already have a cooler bag packed.

We have needed cash a few times. A few random toilets that did not accept cards, and then a hot pot in the Westfjorrds was cash only as well. Plus it is nice to have to donate for the rustic hot springs that don't have a fee, but have a donation box.

The Citywalk tour is excellent, we have done it a few times. It is such a great introduction to the city/country, IMO.

While I fly out next week, your post is making me even more anxious to get back there!

Posted by
16 posts

Okay, part 1 in a reply?!

We are from the U.S. and recently got back from our trip. I started following this forum about a year before our trip, and gained a lot of good information, so here’s our experiences that might help future travelers. We did a 9-day self-drive trip arriving August 30th of the Ring Road, with an extension for Tröllaskagi Peninsula, plus the Golden Circle. Google Maps was accurate with its timings, and I built an itinerary using Rick Steves’ recommendations, reading other travel guides, joining a couple of Facebook groups, and following a couple of Icelander’s social media channels. I booked our AirBnBs more than a year out.

Flying/KEF
We flew Icelandair, carryon only, purchased through our credit card travel portal 8 months in advance. This ended up being messy. We were coming from two different locations. One person had a connecting flight with JetBlue, and this wasn’t good because the JetBlue flight kept changing, and we got change notice after change notice for the that combination of flights. Seven, I think. Mostly, it was a shift of a few minutes, or something else minor. However, the last one was a big change, and we just weren’t being careful enough by this point. Because of JetBlue changes, that traveler was shifted to a return flight half a day earlier. The notice in the email was to “contact us as soon as possible” for a free change. I called about 36 hours after the email - free changes were only available for 24 hours, so I paid to have the flight changed to a different connecting city to regain that half day.

The best luggage solution for the small Icelandair carryon size amongst us was a duffel with backpack straps. It was about an inch too long, and too deep, but keeping it underpacked, it fit into the sizer. And, that traveler now has a more useful piece of luggage for them to use later. I bought a soft-sided cooler that I used as a personal item, with my purse and other things inside.

I didn’t enjoy KEF. Flying in was fine. Flying out was worse than other airports we have traveled. The bulk of the seating is the wavy wooden benches before the gates, at least in D gates that use the shuttle bus. So you hang out here for a while, then go through passport control, and then wait at your gate standing or sitting on the floor. Gates weren’t announced much in advance - the boards still said that it was yet to be announced when it was actually already available in the app. We boarded a shuttle bus (there were two for the plane), and walked up the stairs attached to the back of the plane.

Car/Driving
We used Blue car rental. It’s a short walk from the airport. Before hours pickup went well. We got an MG EHS (hybrid), and bought all the extra insurance, which we have been doing for international trips. We had two different gas stations that didn’t work with our credit card for whatever reason (we saw other people fail to get them to work too). I had EasyPark and Parka apps ready, added the license plate when picking up the car, and did use both apps in addition to paying at kiosks or booths for parking. Don’t forget to remove the license plate from the apps when you leave. I was able to remove my credit card number from one, but not the other; I have to figure that out yet.

Study up on your road signs - we still aren’t sure what some of the city ones meant, and we did look in advance. I did check the SafeTravel and Veður apps every morning before traveling.

Posted by
16 posts

Have a great time, mikliz97! We had a great time, and were happy to have pretty decent weather.

Posted by
2798 posts

Great tips Dulcey:). Yes, leaving from KEF is chaos in the gate area. We learned on our 2nd trip to not wait for the gate announcement as all flights to the US leave from the D gates. Ever since that trip, we just go to the D gates and hang out at a restaurant until it is time to stand in line. And yes, the app shows the gate sooner than the boards do. Its a weird system;)

So glad you had good weather! My husband was there this summer as he sailed to Greenland, but they were hunkered down for 4 days in Grundarfjordur due to weather.

Posted by
16 posts

mikliz97 - that was running through my mind - what if we get stuck because of weather or roads? Because it certainly happens. I hope he had some fun while stuck. :)

Posted by
2798 posts

Dulcey--They did. There were 9 of them that were crewing the sailboat. They did a private tour one day and then I had to laugh, my husband went shopping and he is NOT a shopper, lol. The weather on land was just very windy and rainy, but at sea it was hurricane conditions so they kept trying to get out, and would have to come back. They finally made it to Greenland and back though! You are right, you always have to have a backup plan due to weather. I am already looking at our itinerary and will swap directions if we need to.

Posted by
16 posts

mikliz97 - yay, glad he finally got to sail! Ha on the shopping. :)