I follow on Instagram a local who lives in Budapest. He also has a Youtube channel with great content.
He recently visited the reopened Citadella. Just putting it here since may not be in guide books yet, and might be of interest to some visiting this year. And to get opinion from those who may have visited before/after renovations.
I have seen all the media about it, but I havent been up there. I stay away from Buda if possible. But thanks for the reminder and the weather is perfefet so maybe tomorrow. For as good, maybe a better view think about https://maps.app.goo.gl/axKGje7uG3fQiPF88 Here i have brought a bottle of wine and taken in the view for hours. Actually this is the first place from where i saw Budapest and knew it was special. That was 20-something years ago.
I think there is exhibition nearby on Hungarian history too. No rush Mr. E.
Fall 2002: About an hour before sunset, the train arrived at Keleti Station in Budapest. Keleti is a magnificent station, and would have appeared so then, if they had ever taken the time to clean the coal suet off the walls and ceilings. My mind raced to good G-d we have traveled to the heart of communist hell.
Upon walking outside the station, a short, stocky, mustached, stereotypical communist-looking gentleman was grabbing at the luggage! Before I could react, a taxi drove over the curb and onto the sidewalk. The driver, a young kid, gets out and runs to our rescue. He and the angry commie begin arguing, arms waving as they get up in each other’s faces. Then as abruptly as it had begun it end ed. Hell, it was two cabbies fighting over a fare: us! I chose the kid because I thought that if needed, I could win a fight with him.
The kid knew maybe six words in English, but after some of efforts he stopped insisting, “no tuuuuuur guide,” and he understood that we just wanted to be driven around town. This was probably the first opportunity he ever had to run up a fare with the permission of the customer.
For nearly an hour he drove through the city. Old and dark and in need of a lot of love, but stunningly beautiful at the same time. It just seemed more “real” than Rome or Paris or Vienna or London.
Then we crossed the Chain Bridge, drove through a great tunnel, and began climbing higher and higher as it got darker and darker. We were being hijacked for a mugging and robbery. We were behind the Iron Curtain and these were commies; what should I have expected?
He pulled to the side along a deserted stretch of road and ordered us out of the car. Then he demanded we turn with our backs to the car. I was sizing up the options to fight back or run.
Then I saw it, from the lookout near the Citadella … and all the events and worries were gone. I knew my only mistake was not planning enough time for Budapest. Looking straight ahead, I knew I was coming back. https://static.vecteezy.com/system/resources/previews/007/827/782/large_2x/budapest-hungary-view-from-gellert-hill-photo.jpg
I go back there about once a year with a bottle of wine.
Fun story Mr. E ! Thank you for sharing. I really enjoyed reading it.
Okay, I did it. I have never been inside the walls as its either been a hotel or a restaurant or abandoned. I knew it was being renovated and I saw some photos but have been to lazy to visit. This why locals are lousy for advice. Im worse as i'm not a tourist or local.
So, first, how to get there: Call CityTaxi or use their app. Okay no self respecting RS person is taking a cab. So, you will need Google Maps and the BudapestGo App and a TravelCard.
Ask Google maps how to get there on public transportation and you will see more than a half dozen options. Most require what looks like a moderate walk from the river. The map doesnt tell you its 400 feet vertical. I'll guess 1000 steps. So, Plan B. From the Opera, near my home, the M1 metro 2 stops to Deak Ferenc ter. Then up the correct steps to the 47/49 Tram, one stop to the Astoria stop.
Now Bus 8E. But where is the bus stop? Open the BudapestGo app and start clicking on the nearby bus symbols until one says 8E. Walk to the indicated stop. The BudapestGo App is great for this. You wouldnt have found the bus stop any other way. Wait! You want to double check direction. You want the stop for the 8E going to Kelenfold.
The app will tell you how long the wait too. 4 stops later you get off and repeat the process to find Bus 27 ... direction Citidel. Two stops and a 300m walk up hill walk and you are there. Figure 45 minutes at most. Or call a taxi 🤣🤣
Budapest is well known for its architecture. Anthony Bourdain said that Budapest taught him that Architecural Porn was possible. But what has gotten overlooked by tourists is the new architecture. The House of Music and the Museum of Ethnography are world class modern architecture. What they have done with the Citadella is also world class. Go. The old and new architecture fused together, the public spaces and the views. I travel a bit and I cant think of a more sucessful example of this. You want more? Google it.
Okay, so I walked down. How hard can that be, right? By the time I reached the Gellert Hotel after about 40 minutes of stairs my knees were shot, shaking like leaves in the wind. Still when I passed the youngsters I put on s great act of health and vigor.
At the bottom, around the front of the Gellert is Palack Wine bar with excellent outside seating. Being down by the river its always at least 5F cooler here. The pita and feta cheese spread is good too. Service always near perfect.
I am glad you went Mr. E - and wow, good for you walking those steps!
My time in Budapest will be very limited but depending on how it goes, maybe I'll take a taxi up there. With more time, public transport sounds like a great adventure too!
